Was my taipan veteran barrel indexed?

Some time ago I did install a huma reg in my .177 taipan veteran. As I had the gun apart I also took the oportunity to inspect the transferport, to check if it had no burrs in it (it did not). I did notice the barrel was not screwed all the way in. There was maybe 1/4 turns left, before it reached the end. I did thighten it down when I reinstalled it. Have since thought about if that maybe was done with purpose from the factory, as a way of indexing it? The gun shoot good, better than it did from factory, after I lowered the regpressure. But I just wondered if anyone else had theire barrels not screwed all the way in?
 
I really need to consider making a video on this, but there's a procedure involved for the barrel reassembly that requires the utmost care to avoid damaging your barrel. In short, you should not just torque the barrel down and reinstall the retaining caps on the trigger housing - there is often some misalignment where the barrel's orientation is skewed, and if you torque down the caps while that barrel is crooked - you will bend the barrel or the threads.

I say this having disassembled and reassembled Taipan rifles >=1,000 times (my own and those belonging to others. I figured this out early on, but many haven't and messed things up.

There's some tricks to fix the alignment when there's a thread problem, but I would need to demonstrate everything to explain the evaluation and the (decision tree style) process applicable to the common reinstallation cases. 
 
Yes, I'd love to see your video. I've had 2 Veterans, never had an issue with barrel installation. Seems to me, if there is a misalignment sufficient to bend the barrel or damage the threads, someone made a serious machining error, which is very un-Taipan-like. That said, anytime there are multiple fasteners over a wide area, care should be taken in bringing each one to sufficient torque in a uniform manner, and I'm careful in that regard. But, if either the barrel or receiver was tapped and/or threaded with that kind of error, it needs to go back. 
 
12 screws and a guy could get 'puzzled'.

The tolerances are tight on the clamp / bands to the reservoir and barrel, it almost vaccums them together. I've had mine apart 6 times (not >1000) and it goes together VERY efficiently and smoothly.

If a guy bent the barrel he'd have to try really hard to do it. Don't see how even the hardest 'effort' could do that.



 
I really need to consider making a video on this, but there's a procedure involved for the barrel reassembly that requires the utmost care to avoid damaging your barrel. In short, you should not just torque the barrel down and reinstall the retaining caps on the trigger housing - there is often some misalignment where the barrel's orientation is skewed, and if you torque down the caps while that barrel is crooked - you will bend the barrel or the threads.

I say this having disassembled and reassembled Taipan rifles >=1,000 times (my own and those belonging to others. I figured this out early on, but many haven't and messed things up.

There's some tricks to fix the alignment when there's a thread problem, but I would need to demonstrate everything to explain the evaluation and the (decision tree style) process applicable to the common reinstallation cases.

So, any update on this? Been doing research and haven't found these "many" who have messed up from improper reassembly. Can you shed some light on this?
 
I really need to consider making a video on this, but there's a procedure involved for the barrel reassembly that requires the utmost care to avoid damaging your barrel. In short, you should not just torque the barrel down and reinstall the retaining caps on the trigger housing - there is often some misalignment where the barrel's orientation is skewed, and if you torque down the caps while that barrel is crooked - you will bend the barrel or the threads.

I say this having disassembled and reassembled Taipan rifles >=1,000 times (my own and those belonging to others. I figured this out early on, but many haven't and messed things up.

There's some tricks to fix the alignment when there's a thread problem, but I would need to demonstrate everything to explain the evaluation and the (decision tree style) process applicable to the common reinstallation cases.

So, any update on this? Been doing research and haven't found these "many" who have messed up from improper reassembly. Can you shed some light on this?

Not entirely sure what you mean by "update", but I assure you that it's entirely possible to warp the barrel. Simple physics (leverage) when clamping a barrel threaded down non-concentric against fulcrum points (the air cylinder and block). If you want to check your barrel without a lathe, go ahead and get a dial test indicator and v-block rollers and measure the run out. 



 
I really need to consider making a video on this, but there's a procedure involved for the barrel reassembly that requires the utmost care to avoid damaging your barrel. In short, you should not just torque the barrel down and reinstall the retaining caps on the trigger housing - there is often some misalignment where the barrel's orientation is skewed, and if you torque down the caps while that barrel is crooked - you will bend the barrel or the threads.

I say this having disassembled and reassembled Taipan rifles >=1,000 times (my own and those belonging to others. I figured this out early on, but many haven't and messed things up.

There's some tricks to fix the alignment when there's a thread problem, but I would need to demonstrate everything to explain the evaluation and the (decision tree style) process applicable to the common reinstallation cases.

So, any update on this? Been doing research and haven't found these "many" who have messed up from improper reassembly. Can you shed some light on this?

Not entirely sure what you mean by "update", but I assure you that it's entirely possible to warp the barrel. Simple physics (leverage) when clamping a barrel threaded down non-concentric against fulcrum points (the air cylinder and block). If you want to check your barrel without a lathe, go ahead and get a dial test indicator and v-block rollers and measure the run out. 



You had mentioned that you might make a video, that's what I was referring to.
 
I really need to consider making a video on this, but there's a procedure involved for the barrel reassembly that requires the utmost care to avoid damaging your barrel. In short, you should not just torque the barrel down and reinstall the retaining caps on the trigger housing - there is often some misalignment where the barrel's orientation is skewed, and if you torque down the caps while that barrel is crooked - you will bend the barrel or the threads.

I say this having disassembled and reassembled Taipan rifles >=1,000 times (my own and those belonging to others. I figured this out early on, but many haven't and messed things up.

There's some tricks to fix the alignment when there's a thread problem, but I would need to demonstrate everything to explain the evaluation and the (decision tree style) process applicable to the common reinstallation cases.

So, any update on this? Been doing research and haven't found these "many" who have messed up from improper reassembly. Can you shed some light on this?

Not entirely sure what you mean by "update", but I assure you that it's entirely possible to warp the barrel. Simple physics (leverage) when clamping a barrel threaded down non-concentric against fulcrum points (the air cylinder and block). If you want to check your barrel without a lathe, go ahead and get a dial test indicator and v-block rollers and measure the run out. 



You had mentioned that you might make a video, that's what I was referring to.

Well, my film & video production crew have the summer off! LoL

On a serious note - this is a real sore subject for me. Embarrassed to say this, but I just don't have the capabilities at the moment to pump out videos like that. Tried to use my iPhone with Filmic Pro (since autofocus = autofail), but it was way too stressful and time consuming trying to manage filming, focus / refocusing, rinse, repeat on my own.

My GoPro (Backbone) is dedicated to my SideShot, but the manual focus lens system SUCKS. My 12mm lens threads into the camera, and it had taken me forever to get it threaded down in just the right position after I bought it. The lens came loose somehow last month (didn't budge for ~ years!), and I have yet to get the damn thing threaded back down just right. When I finally get that sorted, I'm not touching it again for anything else.

Anyways, up to this point it hasn't been a high priority for me to find a better filming solution - however, I'll soon be obligated to make some tear down and reassembly videos for my Supervet builds. I had planned to spend some additional time providing detailed instructions for the barrel reinstallation process, covering what I've learned having done teardowns literally hundreds of times. I wanted to use that as the opportunity to setup a better filming environment, but if anyone has suggestions - I'm all ears and would greatly appreciate the input (PM me)!