Veteran barrel and shroud questions

I've never needed to remove my shroud but I'm curious how the shroud is attached to the barrel......is that set screws the only thing holding it? Or is the barrel threaded and the shroud screws on like a moderator? If threaded, anybody know what threads? Standard 1/2-20 or something more exotic? 

Semi-related......anybody know what type of threads are at the other end where it screws into the breech? 


 
Interesting that mine seems to be built a little differently. 

Here's a look down the shroud with all the baffles removed. 

1596838315_19925597235f2dd1ab06f1e2.01662726.jpg


Rotating the shroud tube allows everything to spin EXCEPT the collar with the nine holes seen at the bottom of the shroud here (kinda looks like a magazine). 

In the upper right you can see what looks like a split ring right behind the 9 hole bushing. The split ring behind the 9hole bushing turns while rotating the shroud body but no unthreading is occuring. I think that nine hole bushing has got to come off before the shroud will......... but it's not budging. Thinking maybe some welding rod placed in two of those holes at 180 degrees (kinda like the hammer tension adjuster) might allow me to get enough torque? 

Or am I completely off base here? Any other ideas as to what I'm dealing with?


 
Interesting that mine seems to be built a little differently. 

Here's a look down the shroud with all the baffles removed. 

1596838315_19925597235f2dd1ab06f1e2.01662726.jpg


Rotating the shroud tube allows everything to spin EXCEPT the collar with the nine holes seen at the bottom of the shroud here (kinda looks like a magazine). 

In the upper right you can see what looks like a split ring right behind the 9 hole bushing. The split ring behind the 9hole bushing turns while rotating the shroud body but no unthreading is occuring. I think that nine hole bushing has got to come off before the shroud will......... but it's not budging. Thinking maybe some welding rod placed in two of those holes at 180 degrees (kinda like the hammer tension adjuster) might allow me to get enough torque? 

Or am I completely off base here? Any other ideas as to what I'm dealing with?


Put the baffles back in and tighten the end cap while holding the shroud. Then the whole unit will unthread from the barrel. Once unthreaded the shroud will slide off the barrel. You have to have tension against the piece with the holes in it. 



You don't remove the barrel to remove the shroud.
 
Okay, that plate you see with the holes is threaded to the muzzle. After being attached a while, or, perhaps overtightened in production, the shroud will spin on it, thus not allowing it to separate from the barrel. Take a long screw driver or dowel, engage it in one of the holes, and it should loosen. Once off, when reattaching, do not tighten more than gently. It only needs to be seated, and the grub screw will prevent any movement. It's kind of like wheel lug nuts, half of them are either too tight or too loose. This is a good example of why you can't assume that things are properly assembled. 
 
Success!

1596884420_11236599435f2e85c46b70b4.71927990.jpg


..........perhaps overtightened in production.....screw driver or dowel, engage it in one of the holes, and it should loosen........ This is a good example of why you can't assume that things are properly assembled.

Screwdriver trick worked, but it was just about all I could do to get it to loosen with just my hands. Since I'd never had it off, just came from the factory really torqued down. 

Took some pics while I was there in case somebody stumbles upon this thread in the future....

As Intensity states, 1/2-20 threads....

1596884829_17834260525f2e875d92bd64.55405432.jpg


Expanded baffle arrangement.

1596884830_14262458715f2e875e7ccd25.81181350.jpg


All the baffles sit in front of that lock ring.

1596884831_12975155085f2e875f71dd22.32688401.jpg


Compressed baffle arrangement, and yes, there's about 2 inches of dead space behind that lock ring.

1596884832_10488002005f2e876049b965.02600595.jpg


That two inches of dead space I didn't know about makes the barrel in this Short about two inches longer than I figured it was, so 13.75inches.

1596884833_1513487235f2e8761144ba0.62750837.jpg


When measured from this point, assuming that's about how deep the threads at the breech end go.

1596884833_8620698865f2e8761d07ee4.09704903.jpg


This all allowed me to do the first really good cleaning job the barrel has ever seen. I think I'm about 12 tins through this gun, with only a few patches pulled through here and there, without ever seeing any degradation in accuracy. Gun was purchased new by me. 

Also got some close ups of the crown and rifling. 

12 land and groove and this gun is authentic CZ era barrel, pre Utah Airguns involvement. 

1596885268_6909237645f2e89148eb346.28315397.png


Crown is a little rougher than I expected, but the gun shoots, and always has, exceptionally accurately. Can't argue with results, rough crown or no. 

1596885403_755829405f2e899bb18e06.98102618.png


Thanks for the help guys. 

(Reassembled with normal shroud/moderator torque and it threads off and on like it should now, screwdriver song and dance no longer necessary).