UTG 3-12X44 mil dot

Just my 2¢ worth .. Guys make too big a deal over 2 piece mounts , I've never had a problem ....But I owned one of those utg scopes and I'm fairly sure the rings are weaver base rings , if so they won't work on your rifle with dovetail ....But I'm OFTEN wrong

I second the use of 2 piece rings. Rifle users have been using them since the dawn of time. Naturally a 1 piece offers a base with better 'potential' stability...but if each ring is torqued down right it wont move.

One more thought , some of the supposedly more secure one piece bases are cheap made as hell !!! I had one ( can't remember brand) that had 4 screws and it was junk . Torqued them until heads stripped and it still slipped like crazy .

Ok, if you have box checked to get follow up replies make sure your email is spelled right in profile settings and check your Junk or Spam box.

On the mounts, I have never seen nor would I trust thumb screw bases. I use SportsMatch bases for all my 11mm Dovetail mounts. They are steel and amazingly solid using 2 screws per base, 4 per ring-to-scope. I use steel Warne rings for any Weaver rails. Never overtighten rings to the scope. I use the short handle of the wrench not the long handle. Rings over-torqued will possibly warp a tube. Tighten base screws first then tighten the top side screws opposite the base side screws going in an X pattern. Like that when you tighten lug nuts when changing a tire. I do all this after I have lined up the crosshairs with a plumb-bob 10 yards out to make sure scope isnt cannted/tilting to one side.

You may be shooting pellets the H95 hates. Use soft lead JSB brand first, round nose dome diablo skirt and see how that does. Rest the springer on your hand on a bag on a steady, firm bench or table.

Dont get over worked and try to force the rifle to do perfect, just let it show you what pellets work best. Clean the barrel gently, check for burrs in breech. Is the rifle barrel locking well or is there play? Break barrels change the relationship between the scope and muzzle everytime (in theory) you cock it. Under or side levers obviously dont.

PCP's are just more accurate by design as the moving parts are just a hammerspring, shear, trigger and other small parts. Springers have actual pistons and valves and much larger springs that shift and jolt before the pellet has left the barrel. Good luck!

Good glad you are making progress. I use my bench rest to keep the rifle steady and I put a level on it. The level is actually meant to be used by itself to level the crosshairs as it has wings that come out with black bars. One is supposed to see the bars and glance into the scope and look at the horizontal crosshair against these reference bars. I find it not easy to do. So I use it as a level to tell me when the rifle is true in the benchrest (it uses any machined flat part of the rifle). Then I look at my colored red string that is holding the plumb. I just laydown with the scope loose in the mounts and keep adjusting until I cant see but one crosshair because they are correctly aligned. ☺

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A lot of the fun with shooting springers is conquering them. There is a lot to learn from valuable advice on forums such as this. That said, nothing beats learning the hard way, like a lot of people say you're got to earn it.
​ On your Hatsan 95 I shot a tin of 500 pellets to let the gun smooth out and then cleaned the barrel really well before scoping. Makes everything easier.

Greetings y'll, my first post here since I bought a UTG 3-12x44 mildot a while back and found that it would focus sharply no closer than 12 yards at 12x and it was sent in to Leapers customer "non-support" to be exchanged for one that would function as advertized. According to Leapers "expert tech support" the scope was returned with a note stating that the scope was functioning correctly. After the Leapers "non-support" I returned the scope to the vendor and exchanged it for a UTG 3-12x44 Mildot Compact Swat scope which is now mounted on my HW95. Initially I had some "wandering group issues" with the short UTG but just as I was about to give up on the scope I found that if I mechanically centered the reticle by setting the turrets at the center of their travel and then bend the HW95 barrel to accommodate the scope has been very solid for hundreds of shots since. 

A few personal opinion comments.........
"The mounts are Leapers Accushot."
I'm also using a cheap UTG one piece mount because the "ears" of my one piece BKL mount are wide enough to interfere with the 80mm side wheel mounted to the scope and it works fine.

"I want to remove the scope stop on my Hartsan 95 so I can get more eye relief. is this advisable, or am I asking for problems."
Yep....you'll definitely have problems because even the recoil of my HW95 detuned to 13fpe has enough recoil to casue the scope/mount to shift enough so the stop pin deforms the stop pin hole. I did do an expreiment with my one piece UTG mount for use without a stop pin (for reasons similar to yours) by drilling and tapping two extra base screw bolt holes. This mount/scope set in degreased scope dovetails and with each of the 5 base screws torqued to 40 in/lbs (5in/lbs over recommended max) has indeed been stable for hundreds of shots, but then my well tuned HW95 at 13fps isn't a Hatsan!

"My other option would go with the UTG mount supplied with the scope."
Keep in mind that the supplied mount is for a Weaver style rail. If your gun has a dovetail scope rail then you'll also need an adapter. I personally prefer a one piece mount for mounting my scope on a steel receiver. The reason is that there is a difference in expansion between a steel receiver and an aluminum scope tube so the scope tube will be stressed in different directions if the two piece mounts are pulled/pushed by differences in thermal expansion with temperature changes during the day. Since the UTG one piece mount is also made of aluminum alloy the mount will expand at the same rate as the scope tube and the expansion differential will take place between the steel receiver and the aluminium mount, not at the rings clamped to the scope tube. I know nothing about the Hatsan but if it uses a bolt on pot metal scope rail then this may not be an issue at all.

"The reason I did not use those mounts is because its a 2 piece and read they can be problems."
Well....there may be problems (one which I noted) but I used two piece mounts for years before switching to the one piece offerings. One of the concerns with the two piece mount is that each base is acting independently attaching the scope to the receiver at two distinct points. Because of this "feature" if the front mount is shifting (no stop pin here) and the rear mount is restrained by the stop pin, where do you think the stress between the shifting and non shifting mounts is concentrated???....yep, in the scope tube. With the one piece mount the whole assembly moves as a unit.

P.S.
How do I post pics?

Take Eds advice ..he knows his stuff !!!!

Yep, been bending my HW barrels for years! The purpose of having the reticle close to mechanical center when the gun is zero'd is to put roughly equal stress on the erector springs so the erector assembly doesn't tend to "flop around" with piston gun recoil. This "flopping around" due to a lot of erector spring tension on one side and little tension on the other side can even end up thrashing the scope internally.

Anywhoo.......I've always first mechanically centered my scope (actually, most come from the factory mechanically centered), mount the scope, then adjust the poi on my practice lane by bending the barrel till the poi is within about an inch of the aiming point at 30 yards, finally the fine adjustments are done with the turrets. 

Barrel bending tools..........
A forked tree on my practice lane..........

This works great for adding snoop and windage.

My home made barrel tweaker which can be used to introduce bend in any direction..........



As a side note, adding enough bend to a HW95 barrel to move the poi 6" at 30 yards can't even be seen with the eye!

"How can you tell if you need to bend the barrel."
Easy, optically center the reticle, go to your shooting lane, aim at the bull at your zero distance, shoot a few pellets. If the pellets don't hit the point of aim then there are several methods of adjustment.
1. Simply click the turrets to move the poi to the aim point without messing with anything. If the poi with the optically centered reticle isn't more than a few inches off then the "twist the dials" will most likely be just fine as long as the adjustments aren't near "any extreme side"

2. Buy an adjustable scope mount and adjust the position of the mounted scope (a popular choice).

3. Simply bend the barrel as necassary which I do.

"full set of pipe benders here at the house"
Sounds like a recipe for destroying a good barrel with this one. The amount of bending required to move the poi a few inches at 30 yards is so minor that I can only judge the amount of bend by shooting pellets. When the pellets are landing within 1" of the aim point at 30 yards (I usually strive for 1/2" max), I then go to the turrets. My "barrel tweaker" is designed to fit at roughly the same position on the barrel with a Delrin shoe to prevent marring the bluing of the gun. The bender with Delrin shoe in the modified 1/2"-13 eye bolt can be rotated 180 degrees and re-adjusted just in case the barrel is "over bent" on a certain direction and the fact that the "shoe" is always at the same relative position along the barrel means that I'm not adding "extra bends" to my nice HW barrel. Another function of the Delrin shoe is to spread out the clamping pressure at the eyebolt so any bend is gradual and not a kink. 

By the way.....I'm pretty "PCP ignorant" but since a PCP wouldn't thrash a scope like a piston gun I really don't know if it would matter that the erector springs of the scope are "stretched to one side".......I don't see PCP recoil causing the erector assembly to "hop around". 

P.S. Use due dillegence and don't automatically believe everything you see posted on the forums, and that includes my "pontificating"!

Look up: UTG Weaver-to-11mm or 3/8" dovetail adapter on Pyramid or Amazon. I've used them on 3 rifles to mount weaver rings on dovetail grooves. I have 2 utg scopes on my piston powered rifles using these.