WATCH ME PUMP 5000 PSI out of 2 hand pumps tethered together!!! 🤣

Just a quick update. I changed around the configuration a bit so it was not so big and re routed the hoses and pneumatic switches lower on the base. So it does not look so big.

One of the first automated versions...you can still see the old mounted manual hand joystick in back but it is not connected. I think this was just before I decided the cylinder could easily handle 2 or more hand pumps.

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The last version with the two hand pumps... 

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Below it is liitle more compact looking. I put some tabs or extensions on the tube so they could trigger the pneumatic switches lower on the body so i could cut off the top half off. The unit still extends up higher but when collapsed it won't look so big. I relocated the guage as the bubble on the liquid filled guage made it hard to read at 3500 to 4500 psi But currently it looks like this...

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The smaller black air lines are the control lines, while the bigger blue lines force the piston up and down.

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I had to put some spacers on top of the pumps but below the metal plate as I found out that that is where the air intake is for the pumps. there are a couple holes up on the plate but too off center. If i had known that they were air intake holes I would have drilled and tapped them so i could pressurize them with compressed air. Originally the smaller regulator was going to feed the first chamber with low pressure air. I may still do that. That way the number of pumps to achieve 4500 psi would be less. But right now I think the next step is to get a thicker bar to push down on the hand pumps as the 1/4" bar is deflecting more than I want. afterwards I can drill and tap air intakes for the top plate and see if the first chamber will hold air pressure.

Trying to change over to magnetic piston sensing and control , that way as the pressure increases I can hold the downward stroke for a split second longer before changing direction, but I'm a little slow moving with work crap and all. And the learning curve with this stuff... well, Im just a bit slow. 🤪

Allen


 
Okay, well here is a serious note. Keep your eyes open, be always aware of what is happening and keep from distractions! My girlfriend called me just as i was plugging in the air hose. My hand was in the wrong place as i was plugging it in. Lucky for me i was quick to pull my hand out before it did any real damage. I need to put the fill hose connection in a different spot or have a manual valve to turn the unit on or off after connections are made.



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Notes for this weekend with nothing other than the pneumatic automation i have, the unit will stop pumping with 30 psi input at less than 300 bar right around 27 bar. So you can set a lower regulated input pressure (if the regulator is consistent!) and it maybe possible to walk away. Not that waiting is a big deal as so far all my pcps have filled in less than 10 or so mins. Well i generally have been trying to keep the bottle pressure from getting too low as anything below 150 bar tends to take a while to pump up to 250-300 bar.

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So if I set it to stop below my final fill pressure I can finish if off the last little bit while watching after it stops.

Another additional note. At the lower input pressure, pump will pump slow when the bottle pressures get over 3500 psi, the pump tube at the base does not get over 90 degrees in temperature! This is when I have continuous pumping 8 plus minutes even!
 
Big change and development!



So this is exciting and scary for me. I notice earlier in the process that when I put the aluminum plate on top where the handle used to be it would not build pressure. Thats when I notice this hole on the top of the tube. It was the intake for the pump! So I put a spacer up there to allow air to come into the pump

So i figured. Ok so intake pressure is just atmospheric pressure, as you pump each stroke the air pressure from one chamber builds as it goes into the next chamber or stage. When that chamber fills it gets pushed down and pushes even more pressure into the next chamber. But each time you pump you just pull in atmospheric pressure, but what if i start pre-filling the pump with higher pressures every time I pump instead of just the outside pressure like the pressure boosters do! I figure once I got the other stuff squared away I will plumb the top of the tubes to something like 40 (if it can even handle that much) or more psi and see if i can get the air pressure to pumped up faster.... 

Well today i just plumbed the tops of the tubes! 

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It normally takes like 10 pumps or so just to get to 1000 psi with the lines capped and filling the filter. 

Now it takes only 3 pumps! Three full pumps and it is over 1000 psi!

😁
 
I have two short clips i took before running out to dinner. Only one uploaded. I did not have time to edit. The first half of the video shows how many pumps to get to about 1000 psi with just atmospheric pressure and the output line capped off. The second part of the video shows with air forced into hand pump and after three pumps look at the gauge pressure!!!



Turn down volume as my old shop compressor is kind of loud in this video.













https://youtu.be/4qz0KVUGN00











WOW! I just literally just now just saw that video! It is well over 2000 psi of pressure in 3 freaking pumps! I have to go see the guage to see what straight up is on it! 

So I went outside to take a look at what straight up with the needle on the gauge is....



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3000 psi!CAN YOU BELIEVE THAT!  🤣
 
It was not earlier when i had 40 psi on it. I have no actual gasket between the bar and the top of the pump. But because the pump with the 1/2 bar stock is now taller and i pulled out the wood block that allowed air in, then I had to put in a block of wood with holes (wood flooring so i guess that is my gasket for now) for the bolts and the air to go in. And now that I have forced air going in on the outer chambers I noticed that I have to up the air pressure to overcome the new force required pump it all the way down. Good thing I up the bar stock from 1/4 to 1/2 inch huh? The 1/2" bar was tapped for a 1/8 npt thread. Then I put a push connect fitting with the correct thead into that hole.

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It did not leak with the 40 psi going in anywhere. But I'm sure it now has some leaks because I upped the pressures. I think i will put some type of sealer or a o-ring on both sides of the wood spacer.



Here is a picture of the top of the tube where the air goes in. Surprised how quickly it gets dirty.



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I will have to use 2 regulators again as Im not sure yet how much the hand pumps can take for input pressure. So one for the input air/signal lines and another for the actual work pushing down and up on the pistons working the hand pumps. But to answer your question it held air in the tubes and did not leak out of the legs. Tomorrow I will put the other regulator back on. Shoot some pellets on one of the larger bottled guns and see how well it pumps up.



And yes BlackICE that is a valid point. I will put a better water separater on the intake side. 👍
 
So I got the second video uploaded. Sorry like i mentioned i was in a hurry with the filming and had dinner to go to. Just too excited about what i just saw with the first video so I had to pump up a pcp. The starting pressure of bottle was less than 200 bar the end pressure was 300 bar. The video was in real time just after hook up opening the valve at the compressor and going to the hand pump. No edit so you hear me talking with my girlfriends sister and her grandchild. This thing pumped up faster than i could think. Lol, anyways less the 3 mins from 190 bar to 300 bar. I was scared that i would over fill it. Wow just a tad over 2 mins and only 20 actual pumps? Thats craziness!



Good thing this little tank takes 300 bar. My other tanks only take 250 bar!









https://youtu.be/H2Egoy-pZx0






 
You are going to get much drier air too if you have a desiccant filter on the 40psi line. Desiccant collect more water as the air pressure is increased. Your setup should pump really fast now. Do your pumps leak any air with the precharge? My Hill MK3 does.




I don't know if you notice but I switched to using the cheapest hand pump that amazon had at the time $57 each!

So if i end up having a catastrophic failure it is only a day away and less than $60 repair.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RJR24X3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_HS4D1ZFQBFCK48ZEC2GW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1



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Well the input definitely leaks with higher pressure. I took it to 80 psi. Error on my end as i did not expect to put so much air in the intake side. It only leaks air at the top of the pump where i have no gasket and only at the higher pressures. 

I put a 580 tank on my sk19. The tank started at about 150 bar at the start of the fill and I stopped the hand pump at the 250 bar max. It took a total of 29 pumps! I pumped 27 pumps to 25 bar and let it cool for 3 to 5 mins. Then i added two more pumps to 25 as the bottle pressure dropped below 25 bar.



I need to separate the intake system i have to use two regulators. When i put a lot of air pressure into the air intake it is harder to push down the pumps. So i have to up the overall regulator pressure which in turn ups the intake pressure. When i do that it is harder to push down on the pump so I have to up the overall regulator pressure... 😒

Lol this is so much fun. Oh i do notice just using a regular water separator on the pressurized intake significantly lowers the amount of water on the high side.



Allen
 
Exactly what I have experienced. Currently with the pressurized pre fill air there is no water at all when bleeding. 

While testing today and increasing pre fill air pressure (actually I turned the regulator the wrong way lol) the amount of downforce required to compress the 2 pumps appeared astronomical. My half inch metal bar started bending. The bottom of the pump got to 100 degrees I think i will keep the low side pressure below 60.