Useful tools for airguns...

I watched the "Master Class" videos by Ernest Rowe last night, in his videos he uses a wrench similar to the one below, I don't own one, but I did a lil research to see if it was just a standard adjustable wrench someone ground down thinner or a manufactured tool... Grinding any wrench will remove the heat treating and render it soft... I found this one online... I have to get me one of these...

Channelock Thin Jaw Wideazz 8" adjustable wrench...



Tim the toolman has nothing on me...Ken

Thank you STO, I try to contribute what I can...

I've always had a thing for tools, I have more tools than any one man should own... I really like the thin jaw adjustable wrench I seen in Ernest's videos... I've could have used a wrench like it many times...

Here's another tool I like...

I posted a photo of this small "tool" in another thread a while back, it belongs here too...

It's called a "Bench Block"...



You can use it for so many things, it's weight alone can be helpful, use it as a mini anvil or whatever you can think of...

And yes, I was able to repair my Edgun EDMU...



Ken

If you do a lot of work with small metric socket head fasteners you may appreciate some like these, I got these from my favorite radio control hobby store, the bits are replaceable, nicely made, great for 3.5mm and under... The bits are hardened tool steel...



Ken

If you're serious about torque settings on fasteners such as scope rings etc, you might consider a standard inch pounds torque driver...

I bought this one for use on my scopes and other low torque fasteners...



It uses standard 1/4" hex bits...

Ken

Ken,

where do you plug it in? LOL

Scott

Click to expand...

Hey you asked for rechargeable... Eat your Wheaties, that will recharge you, no power needed...

JK

A composite (read that plastic) 6 or 8 inch digital caliper is nice to have, prevents scratches on the nice finishes of our air rifles...



Mine is broke, I need to make a trip to harbor freight, 10.00 pick up another, it didn't fail, I broke it accidently, it worked well...

Ken

This next one is two tool tips in one photo... I use Plano Dri-Loc containers to sort my pellets, no worries of the lids opening and dumping pellets I just spent two days sorting and watertight... I also use a label maker I got from office supply store to label the sizes and make other labels around the house, it does help keep things organized, easy to read and nice looking...



I have several of these small snap close tubes, I use them to keep my fill probes clean, I label each one...



Ken

I want to keep this thread alive... So, I've been reading a lot about FX guns lately, I own two of them, these next three tips may help others as well...

I've been fortunate enough to not have to remove the brass breech from any of my FX barrels, I have in the past needed to remove other rifle barrels, some of them highly polished and blued steel... The problem is how to remove a threaded barrel without damaging any of the finish or how to hold a cylindrical part firmly without damage (FX Brass Breech)... Three methods that worked well in my ex father in laws gunsmith business were these:

1) A good bench vise with 3/16" thick sheet brass fitted to the jaws, quite literally beat into shape around the jaws, fitted in such a way they stay put by themselves...

2) 1/4" Thick leather pads over the jaws of a vise...

3) I have used this one on expensive rifle barrels... You need a drill press and metal cutting band saw... Essentially you measure the OD of the barrel to be removed, get a large block of brass, bore a hole the diameter of the barrel in the block, centered so you have two equal sides, slice the block in half, centered through the hole you just bored, remove a little extra material in the saw cut (clamping clearance)… Clamp the barrel in-between the blocks in a vise....

The soft brass won't damage the finish on steel parts...

If heat is needed, apply heat and use one or more of the methods above,...

Ken