Urban to Puncher, what should I know?

Depending on the time it was made you might want to look into strengthening the side lever. When I was looking into getting one that was the primary complaint I kept hearing. Cant remember the company that tunes them and supplies the part im sure some searching or a member can point u in the right direction. Have fun

I think the valve stems have a habit of breaking on the Kral. Upgraded ones can be bought through troy hammer I believe.

Cocking levers and valve stems are also available from pyramyd air. The aftermarket that you can get from Troy Hammer is a better quality part.

The puncher breaker from the factory is toon pretty hot, you may need to use a heavier pellet to get the best accuracy. My gun really likes that 28.5 grain .22. from Seneca.

What cal. do you have ? Mine is a 22 cal . bougth this last Christmas . I have around 1000 rds. thru it so far , no problems ( knock on wood ) . As JimNM stated they come pretty hot from the factory . I have mine set at 3/4 power ( the adjustment nob ) shooting jsb 's 18.13's at 32 yds. 3 clips under a dime . Do not put sling mounts on the bottom of the gun because it will not shoulder well ( hangs at a incline because of the weight balance ) Go to the search at top of page check out ( bull pup slings ) my sling is mounter to the scope rail . Also the clear plastic on the mag has a tendencie to crack . My fill pressure is 2900 & can get 3 mags thru it before having to add air . I have A tatsu mod. on mine in 22 cal but had pellet clipping so opened it up to 25 cal. it keeps it quite but the mechanics in the gun is kinda loud . Best of luck Darell Edit : I shoot left handed & Pappy Yosh is making me a new cheek piece & mag holders for mine .

Check the cocking lever on the inside to see of it's breaking, and I tuned it to shoot the jsb 18.1 at 900 fps. I am getting roughly 1 inch at a 100 yards. I got the upgraded side lever, and haven't had any other issues. Probably 4000 pellets through it since I bought it. Will post a pic of the lever later. As well I used a shorted bolt to secure the picatinny rail and it works fine no wobble.

 

On my synthetic PB the picatinny accessory rail I couldn't get it to tighten security enough for bipod to be secure. I switched to a longer rail that was secured with 2 screws, as opposed to the single screw factory piece, bipod is able to be wobble free.



.22 gets a high shot count when tuned correct. 60+ shots I've shot 72, put noticed poi changed at 60.

Heavy pellets jsb 25.39 old & redesigned & Polymags at high power

CPHP's 14.3 at 11-16fpe for backyard pests, has been deadly.

OK for everyone helping Drew out, the Kral PB he is getting has the "newer" factory valve stem in it. I got the gun used and I have put about a tin thru it since I got it and it has not had any issues.(Original owner reported he never had any issues either) I do have 2 spares (from PA) to give him that I bought (just in case) and have not used.

This gun also has the JSAR cocking lever (original in box not damaged) and JSAR sear in it. Right now it is shooting the 16AA at about 885.

He doesn't have to worry about the original shroud as it is gone and the Daystate LDC (made by Huggett) is screwed on the barrel.

kingston73 appears you got taken care of very well by big tin , like the way he did the stock also .It does look nicer without the shroud plus less of a chance of pellet clipping . Think I need to replace my synth. stock for a wood one also Best of luck Darell P.S. Big tin nice looking breaker also

Thanks all, and Rob did a great job on the stock, really looking forward to getting it. As far as shooting a Bullpup, do they need any special or different technique or is it basically the basics?

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To keep it balanced really well don't top with a scope that is larger then the OAL of the gun.

Off hand, or supported against trees, tripods and such shot pictures and targets to me seem easier to transition as opposed to having to swing around a longer OAL gun.