Uragan (updates as I learn the gun)

*Thanks to Michael Wendt for the photos.

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To share my experience tuning the .30 Uragan: I first bled off the pressure. I don’t have a manual and I’m not sure if there is a better way to bleed down, such as a degas tool. I do not have a degas tool for the Uragan like I do for my Vulcans. I cracked open the fitting at the high pressure hose and let it bleed down. Again, just crack it and let it bleed down. Once all pressure is bled, then take the fitting completely loose as pictured.

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This bleeds the unregulated high pressure air to zero, however, the regulated air in the action still remains. You will not be able to disassemble further without degassing the action. I dry fired a few times which lowered the remaining pressure enough to allow the hammer spring tension to open the firing valve, thus dumping the pressure completely. 

At this point, it’s time to remove (22) to gain access to the regulator. I used a pair of needle nose pliers. The fitting is fairly tight and as Wendt previously suggested, protecting the threads with some tape is a good idea. 

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From here, I found it best to remove the regulator from the action. I used a M4x14 screw that threads into the brass adjuster (42). Beneath the 4mm hex are threads to facilitate threading in the screw to (42).

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I then used needle nose pliers to grab the screw and gently pull the regulator out. At this point, mark the jam nut (75) and the adjuster (42). Think of the marks made in terms of being 12 o’clock on a clock face, at least this helps me. I am lowering reg pressure so I slightly loosen the jam nut and hold in place while using a 4mm allen to turn the adjuster (42) clockwise “5 minutes” to12:05, thinking of the mark made on the adjuster as the minute hand. I then locked the jam nut back down, lightly snugging it up. There are flats on the reg body to hold back-up while snugging the jam nut. Make sure the adjustment made remain and didn’t turn.

Now I carefully reassembled using a bit of silicone grease on the o-rings. Cock the gun and slowly fill. Once your pressure is over 120 bar or so you can de-cock as the firing valve has enough pressure behind it to remain closed. I filled to 200 bar and tested. I first backed off on hammer spring tension (HST) about 2 turns (be sure to first back off the set screw for the HST adjuster). Shooting over the chrony I fed in 1/4 turn increments of HST watching speed rise on every shot until I found the plateau or max speed at this reg setting. It was 903 fps. When I dialed 1/4 turn more HST the speed dropped to 895 fps and then another 1/4 turn more made 886 fps. 1/2 turn less HST took me back to 902 fps. My target was 890 fps which I found by backing off another 1/2 turn. From here, I filled to 250 bar and tested further. All setting were good and I tightened the HST adjuster’s set screw. BTW, max fill is 300 bar. I choose to only fill to 250 bar max. 

The results of this adjustment: I dropped the reg pressure from 150 bar to 140 bar. I know this by observing, while shooting a string over the chrony, the point at which the speed drops off. I know that this is when I’m coming off the regulator. I then begin to refill the gun very slowly and note the pressure at which the gun begins to take air. This is your approximate reg setting. So, at least with this .30 Uragan, “5 minutes” of adjustment equaled 10 bar and took plateau from 918 fps to 903 fps. Once I lowered speed with HST to 890 fps, these adjustments gained me another 7-8 shots on a fill and quieted the report a bit.
 
To add a few notes, some may say why go through the trouble to adjust the reg for such a small decrease in speed. To find the “sweet spot” means that your standard deviation and extreme spread will be tightest. Also, if you lower the speed with only the HST, you can find that as the gun comes off the regulator the speed will increase if your reg is set too high. For me, this is a great annoyance that I cannot live with. Lastly, besides wanting to explore the Uragan’s workings further, I took care of an issue that was causing some reg creep. I had to get to the regulator’s delrin piston seat and resurface it. It had a very small scratch or indention that intersected the seat point. This was seemingly there from factory. It almost appeared that a fine sliver of metal may have been present between the seat and seal when they first attempted to seal. The sliver wasn’t there upon inspection but the minute indention was. The creep was worse when the gun was new (75 fps) and got better as it broke-in. However, it would not totally go away as first shot from sitting 24 hours or more was 25 fps less than the rest of the string. It’s gone now 😁 FYI, this gun came from Europe and not a local dealer.

The Uragan is a fantastic PCP. Awesome design, powerful, accurate & efficient. It’s got a great trigger, nice magazines, very good forward biathlon style cocking (that’s switchable), good factory moderator and big 530cc bottle. I’ll do a review eventually in a separate post. 
 
Derrick, I agree on this being a great gun and thanks for your tuning story. It won't be long (probably later this week) until I make the adjustment to my reg and retest. It's good as is but I really think a little more from the reg will let me fine tune the speeds with the HS rather than having it (the HS) turned in so much. I described my setting as 'maxed out' but there is still room to turn it higher.... but then it just uses more air without more FPS so I found the limit of the current reg setting. Of course the direction I'm going will only further preclude the use of the JSB Kings (25gr) but I'll worry about that if the MKII's ever fail for me. I have like 30 tins so that would be a while, at least 2-3 months 😂
 
Derrick, I agree on this being a great gun and thanks for your tuning story. It won't be long (probably later this week) until I make the adjustment to my reg and retest. It's good as is but I really think a little more from the reg will let me fine tune the speeds with the HS rather than having it (the HS) turned in so much. I described my setting as 'maxed out' but there is still room to turn it higher.... but then it just uses more air without more FPS so I found the limit of the current reg setting. Of course the direction I'm going will only further preclude the use of the JSB Kings (25gr) but I'll worry about that if the MKII's ever fail for me. I have like 30 tins so that would be a while, at least 2-3 months
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What fps did you max out on ? What fps are you hoping to get your .25 uragan to shoot & be accurate at ?
 
What fps did you max out on ? What fps are you hoping to get your .25 uragan to shoot & be accurate at ?


My reference above was actually related to a discussion in a different thread from a couple days ago. HS wouldn't produce any increased FPS after mid 890's or so (MKII's). And I am happy with that speed and accuracy at 75y but not with the hammer spring being turned in so much and it shoots just as well at 75y between 830 and 840 fps so I dropped it back down for now. I still want to do a couple things before adjusting any further. Still haven't had a good day to test at 100y or reslug the barrel. Ans while it's down in the 830's with the MKII's, I want to test the Kings again, they should be back in the 910-930 range. We are supposed to have some nice weather the next few days. I realy want to spend one of them with this gun and get it set where I end up happiest. This just ended up being a tough week for me.
 
It rained all day Friday but I shoot from inside my garage so I had a chance to spend some quality time with a couple guns, luckily I had left a couple of targets that hadn't given into the rain yet.

vizlauk... to your questions and just general info.... 

I've decided to stick with the JSB 33.95 MKII's. After having power down as low as 830fps and as high 890fps (max I could get to without increasing the reg pressure), I actually ended up choosing to stay at around 865-870 fps. That's really only 20-30fps higher than the gun came new. My groups were notably better at 870 than at 890 so I decided to not turn the reg up. I did not have time to pull the barrel but I did clean it thoroughly.... It was filthy. And that was probably 2 tins (600 pellets) since the last good cleaning. Pulling the barrel and giving it a good polish with jb paste is still on my list. 

Was tough to tell on the 75y targets with the swirling crosswinds but my 100 target is 90 degrees to the right and in this case the wind was coming from behind me and I hit a 2inch spinner 45 out of 50 times (5 mags) and 2 of the 5 misses were the last 2 shots … I ran out of air.

Something else to look at on the full size. The plastic bottle guard is putting presure on the bottle. Not a bad thing as it helps support the bottle BUT, at least on mine, it's pushing the bottle up toward the shroud enough that the 2 touch near the muzzle. I took the guard off and the difference was noteable, as was the POI impact. I'm tempted to put some marking compound on the plastic to see exactly where its making contact with the bottle and sand out some plastic until the bottle and shroud no longer make contact.




 
Good observation on the bottle protector; it does push the bottle up towards the shroud. I’ve noticed it on both Uragans I’ve handled. Neither were actually touching but both were close. With bipod in use, the weight of the gun on pic rail amplifies the situation. I installed some shim material and slightly torqued the pic rail to correct. 
 
Good observation on the bottle protector; it does push the bottle up towards the shroud. I’ve noticed it on both Uragans I’ve handled. Neither were actually touching but both were close. With bipod in use, the weight of the gun on pic rail amplifies the situation. I installed some shim material and slightly torqued the pic rail to correct.


I just took the pic rail off again and removed the bottle guard, then put pic rail back on. There is no way the guard was sliding back in between the bottle and pic rail without a good deal of force, enough to torque the bottle. I think I will remove just a little plastic from the inside of the guard where screws to the pic rail. Don't want to remove too much, just enough so the bottle and shroud don't touch. That upward pressure is definitely coming from that area. the front of the guard is not touching the bottle.
 
Good observation on the bottle protector; it does push the bottle up towards the shroud. I’ve noticed it on both Uragans I’ve handled. Neither were actually touching but both were close. With bipod in use, the weight of the gun on pic rail amplifies the situation. I installed some shim material and slightly torqued the pic rail to correct.


I just took the pic rail off again and removed the bottle guard, then put pic rail back on. There is no way the guard was sliding back in between the bottle and pic rail without a good deal of force, enough to torque the bottle. I think I will remove just a little plastic from the inside of the guard where screws to the pic rail. Don't want to remove too much, just enough so the bottle and shroud don't touch. That upward pressure is definitely coming from that area. the front of the guard is not touching the bottle.

That’d be good. Let us know how it turns out. 
 
I just pulled my targets at 75y from a couple days ago. They are very close to EBR targets (I forgot to include the width of the lines in the circle diameter, still within a MM to the 7 ring). I also posted about the same Info in Centercut's EBR practice post but thought I'd share it here too.

I think I did pretty good on this one…. Not my best eyeballed score and I use the 'inside' scoring approach, not sure how that's actually done at EBR/RMAC/PACup. Still the groups are better than the targets with better scoring. My red ink bleeds like crazy in the humidity so pardon the 'bleed'. 

5 shots per target. Splatter is from the AR plates mounted below the target area.



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Thought I’d share my experience with my Uragan Long in .22. Ordered from an overseas seller that I’ve purchased from many times! Received in 2 days...not even sure how that’s possibly but I’ll take it. Long story short, I really didn’t love how the was tuned. It was shooting very accurately but I didn’t like the loudness, the trigger, and shot consistency. Enter Mr. Derek Wall aka zx10wall! I’ve been following this thread and found out that he had figured out how to tune these guns. I quickly reached out and he happily agreed to service and tune the gun. Here’s what was done:

1) Changed breech o-ring. 

2) Pulled & inspected barrel.

3) Realigned transfer ports and properly torqued barrel. (Wasn’t torqued at all!)

4) Swapped cocking lever.

5) Adjusted the bottle protector so that it didn’t push the carbon fiber bottle up toward the shroud. 

6) Adjusted trigger

7) Confirmed reg setting & harmonized the tune with proper HST adjustments. 



End result??? The gun is an absolute laser out to 75 yards. It’s significantly quieter, slightly more accurate, heck of a lot more efficient, much sweeter trigger and the reg and HST appear to be in complete harmony! I own EDgun’s, FX, Taipans, Crickets, and the Uragan is currently my favorite!!!! A huge thanks to zxwall10! I was very close to selling the rifle....soooo glad I didn’t.
 
I just received my Uragan .25 regular on Friday. It is a factory fresh unit. They eliminated the hard shell case and are now using a zippered rectangular case similar to those sold by UTG. I'm not sure what revision of the manual I got but the degas procedure is described on the second to last page of the manual. Apparently, you need to remove the bottle shroud to expose screw number 120. Loosen screw 120 to degas the the bottle. Test fire the Uragan 4-5 times to degas the regulated reservoir.