Tuning Update: FX Wildcat MKIII .30 Sniper Accuracy Problem

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WorriedMan

Member
Apr 7, 2021
3,220
2,310
Florida, United States
Seems both Cranky1 and Keyman were on to something. By following the damage, it was apparent that the cross-threaded stock bolt was just the tip of the iceberg. It now appears likely, an unskilled novice, with incorrect tools, attempted to duplicate Ernest Rowe's FX Masterclass tuning video. If you watch the FX Wildcat MKIII video, at each point Ernest touches the Wildcat with a tool, the corresponding spot on my Wildcat suffered damage. In addition to the stock bolts and stock attachment fitting, the following items need replacing: AMP regulator adjustment screw, hammer screw and Power Wheel and bolt. Worst is that the first several receiver threads for the Power Wheel bolt have been totally ground away by cross-threading. Only luck and persistence allow for re-installing the Power Wheel.

My Dealer, a stand-up guy, whom I trust and respect, swears the gun came as new inventory from FX-Sweden. He doesn't work on guns, just visibly inspects, test fires, then ships. With no signs of scope or moderator installation and no visible outward signs of damage, except for chewed up Allen heads on stock bolts, it was judged OK to ship.

A likely scenario is that this gun was first sent to another dealer, where an unskilled novice had access to practice his imaginary tuning skills. Somehow gun returned to FX-Sweden, showing no visible wear signs, and was returned to stock. (I've requested FX-USA to trace activity on the serial number.)

Well, in my shoes, what would you do? I've filed a warranty (Return for Repair) claim with FX-USA, but, due to holiday, have only had auto-reply messages. Do you think gun can be repaired to the "new" condition I paid for? When does a gun become "used" and no longer "new"?

I've found FX-USA to be an admirable, honest and helpful subsidiary, and remain optimistic. 

WM


 
I honestly would request a different gun and see if the dealer would push for it. It sounds like you got a returned gun that someone screwed up. Your dealer might swap you and send that one back. Heck I had to order the macro power adjuster twice once I figured out the new updated part #. I even asked for the new style cap head screw instead of the grub screw. The second time I was able to talk to a tech that sent the new one but didn’t know the part #. 
 
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Buckshutr and Cranky,

Agreed, there would be a cloud of doubt, forever. Dealer offered backup support in dealing with FX, but left the matter in my hands. He runs a smaller operation and wouldn't have any inventory to replace it. I consider everyone, except for the perpetrator, to be potential innocent victims. Two chewed up Allen wrench slots are a small clue to spot, apparently nobody caught it, including me, till I began search for poor accuracy cause. I've noticed, since an AGN member, that FX is serious about having a good reputation and treats customers fairly and honestly, so, I remain optimistic.

WM
 
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Sounds like someone had the gun for a mod and didn’t line up things exactly as it should which would cause the stock screws to not line up. If one didn’t know what they were doing they’d be trying to do the angle be dangled on the screw installation into the stock and cross thread them on the pillars.

with that said, if this is the case, the gun should’ve been shooting way below stellar performance as transfer port holes were not aligned.
 
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Cranky,

Sorry, forgot to mention, Dealer swears, and has paperwork to validate, the gun was shipped directly to him from FX-Sweden. That someone slipped a bunged-up gun back to FX-Sweden, I can't say, but seems likely. A Serial Number search by FX would show who had possession since manufacture. Who knows, maybe people who sent back to FX-Sweden didn't know of damage. I picture the guilty party, after a desperate struggle, finally getting Power Wheel re-attached, then scrambling to put gun back together so fast he cross-threads stock bolt, then back in gun case and on shelf, walking away whistling, like nothing happened.

WM
 
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What is crazy is my gun came from spaw, it was a early maverick. The gun shot great for about 2weeks then started blowing the bolt open, I sent it back to fx. They got the bolt to quit blowing open but the second reg was messed up when I got it back. In the time it takes to load a mag I would lose 70-100 fps due to reg creep. I asked about a rebuild kit and was told I messed up the tuning. I hadn’t touched it so I replaced the second reg with a huma. Then I started getting metal powder off of the power wheel, mine had the grub screw macro power adjuster. After ordering one and getting a grub screw(I asked for the new style) I talked to a tech and finally got the cap head screw. Oh I also had to buy a new power wheel, they didn’t cover it or my reg. So I don’t have a lot of faith in fx warranty or service…. I hope you have better luck. But I do have it shooting good now, a few guys gave me advice. 
 
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That really sucks.

To anyone who is new or even thinks they have some basic mechanical knowledge of assembling screws in threaded holes remember this basic not always taught but should always be taught as a first when assembling... 

If you do this on every bolt (which is not always requirement) you will rarely if ever, crossthread a bolt. 

  • Align bolt holes so you see good alignment between the holes of the parts you are assembling.
  • Place bolt in hole, turn bolt counter clockwise until a click is felt or heard. This is especially important with plastic self tapping screws that were in holes already tapped before. It will allow the first bolt thread to be lined up to the start of the first thread in the bolt hole and NOT allow the bolt to attempt to start a new thread.
  • Always align the bolt centerline with the bolt hole centerline. 
  • Turn clockwise to engage and mesh threads. If it becomes hard to turn remove and inspect threads. Go back to step one if threads are good or the defect has been repaired.
  • Loosely start all threads first only, when you have more than one bolt holding a assembly. This will allow the part to move enough so all holes can be in alignment for all bolts..
  • If possible tighten all bolts very lightly spreading the clamping force evenly before really tighting. Even then it should be tightened in a matter where everything is evenly tightened from the center out. 
  • After a while this will be second nature when assembling and something you do with all bolts. 

Paying attention to certain steps will be required in certain instances for example the fx scope clamps where the scope is being clamped and the bolt hole centerlines are on different planes. You need to make sure bolt holes are lined up before inserting bolts. Leaving the bolts loose will allow you to align the other bolt holes and be able to insert bolts in easily. Otherwise the threads can easily be cross threaded.

When I bought my first 2 air guns they were sold packaged with scopes and zeroed. I know the retailer (the owner) has assembled these before. Yet one of bolts on the fx scope rings was crossed threaded, and one of the holes for extended lower pic rail was crossed threaded! 😠

So this is also a reminder to those of us who think we know it all and maynot be paying attention at times. 



Allen



If I forgot a step please chime in. 
 
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And yes for some of us when we read that its like well duh! But not all of us actually know those simple steps or practic them all the time. 



Please always remember most of these bolt holes are in aluminum and you are using a steel bolt or something of greater strength compared to the aluminum. If anything is going to give it is most likely the threads in the bolt hole. There is no need to over tighten. If there is a issue where the bolt may loosen it is probably better to put a bit of weak thread locker than to tighten the bolt more than necessary.





What my techs do when I tell them this....

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What they think though but never do because they just started or don't want to offend me..

giphy-downsized.1638136609.gif



 
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At HealthServices- great advice given, but if it’s ok, I’d like to add when it comes to that last 1/8-1/4 turn to the final, walk away, done deal, tighten job, I like to use just the inside of my inner thumb, along with the side of the trigger finger to tighten, with the other three fingers spread outside trenches open. The word finesse comes to mind, too.

i find that once a third finger gets on an Allen tool and the rest of the hand clinches fist like, this when a rounded socket head happens, lol.



Hard to tell in this pic, but I’m working on a friends second hand impact installing an M3 power plenum. I go to put the original C1 hammer stop onto the new valve rod threads and won’t thread in straight. It only wants to thread on at an angle!

4DE12F03-0E94-487F-9E8D-DE971B9FCCB2.1638146664.jpeg


After close inspection I determined that the previous owner had gorilla threaded it on when he did the slug power kit. Another sign of Magilla Gorilla is the rear blocks tunnel, where the barrel passes thru, is all gouged up at the entry end.

its all fixed now, polished it up, and thank goodness I had a brand new spare C1.


 
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