Umarex Ruger 10/22 Questions

I bought one of these a month or so ago and have put well over 1000 rds through it (actually about 24 ounces of lead so far, going by what I've recovered). I added a Leupold Weaver rail and 4x32 scope (Field & Stream) and have been very happy with the accuracy. I just wish it didn't use up CO2 so quickly.

Since I'm new to the hobby/sport, I have a question or two:

1) After a day of shooting (anywhere from 100-300 rds), the barrel is dirty enough that running a patch with Hoppe's 9 solvent on it comes out solid black. Since lead oxides are white, this makes me think we have an oil issue. But black indicates combustion, and that's kinda hard to accomplish in a CO2 environment. Does that make sense?

2) How much Pellgun oil should be applied to the CO2 canister? I've been using just the smallest amount I can, as shown on the video for this air rifle that AGD put out.

3) Is there perhaps something else wearing here that I should be concerned about?

4) The only other possible source of oil is the lube after cleaning. We grew up cleaning our weapons every day, whether we shot 1 round or a box. The last step of cleaning was oil, then one or two dry patches to remove excess. I see a lot of folks saying about not cleaning guns, especially lower-power ones like this Ruger, but with all the gunk I see in my barrel, it's hard to think dirtiness is a virtue.

Thanks for helping a newb.

Andy
 
I don't have the particular airgun, but I do have CO2 airguns and here are some of my thoughts:

1. I can not speak for everyone who says do not clean your airgun barrel-- my experience has been exactly the opposite and since I keep records of my group sizes I know that cleaning a barrel does have a measurable effect, even though small. So please do clean your barrel.

2. The black stuff you are seeing is probably because of a coating on the pellets. Which pellets are you using? If Crosman pellets, they tend to be dirtier and leave a dark residue more than other pellets. I don't think you are seeing combustion. 

3. Just a small drop of pellgun oil on the tip of the CO2 cartridge should be enough. If you shoot regularly, you don't need Pellgunoil on every cartridge. I usually put a drop of oil whenever I leave the gun for a while without shooting. I have CO2 guns that still work which are 10 years old and I have followed this approach. 

Hope that helps. 
 
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Andy, 



the residue youre seeing is from the pellets . It isn’t lead but whatever crosman chooses to lube their pellets with . I clean and lube all my pellets . Wash them in a warm water/ dish soap mix . Place them on a towel to air dry , once dry put them back in their original tins and put a few drops of FP10 on them . With that regiment I can shoot thousands of pellet springs before cleanings . 
 
My suggestion would be to contact Umarex regarding your questions/concerns. Lead itself produces the black fouling you are describing.


Following up on this: Umarex recommends to NOT use Pellgunoil (contrary to video on Air Gun Depot) or Hoppes #9, but to use only a silicone lube. Specifically they recommended RWS Chamber Lube or Elite Force Airsoft Slick Silicone Spray Oil. They also concurred that the lead is the cause of the black crud.

Thanks again!

Andy
 
They actually listed a product I didn't see on their website before their own product. I asked him to recommend a product - he only said silicone lube in the first email.

The heavy pellets are more destructive than the lighter ones on the cans. My CE chrono also shows the best fpe with them. They're equally accurate and consistent grouping.

Like I said in the first post, I grew up with guns, both smokeless and black powder. We always kept them clean.

Andy


 
 New to the forum new to the site, new to umarex ruger 10/22. That being said, I am a powder burner of 64 years experience. I have a couple of questions: 1. I saw a youtube where the poster said you can use one empty and one charged co2 cylinder and it will make no difference in velocity. My question: Is this true? is it safe?. Next I see nowhere in the instructions normal maintenance protocol. Can any of you instruct me as to recommended intervals and methods (or a youtube link to them). Thanks I appreciate any help from torum folks. 
 
1) That is correct. The velocity depends upon the pressure, and the pressure with CO2 is constant for any given temperature. The volume of gas available (shot count) changes, but not the speed at which they'll shoot. FWIW, you'll get slightly less than half as many shots using a single cartridge. If you want to go this route, I recommend drilling the end out of a cartridge and then filling it most of the way up with epoxy. This will reduce the volume of wasted gas. If you're into machining, you could make a dummy cylinder to waste even less gas.

2) It does not affect safety.

As for maintenance, I have two of these (one for me, one for my father). My maintenance has been limited.

* I clean the barrel every few thousand shots. 

* I use a drop of RWS Air Chamber Lube on each CO2 cylinder (where it gets punched through).

* All pellets are kept in a tin with a piece of foam that has a light coating of FP-10 lube on it. They get the lightest of coatings on each pellet that way.

I absolutely love mine!

Andy
 
I don't think anybody will accuse the gun of having a good trigger. There are so many other positives that it kinda gets lost in the shuffle, though. I bought a second one, so obviously I must not think it THAT bad.

In double action mode it isn't very nice. I only shoot it that way when I'm trying to keep a can dancing after a hit. Part of the problem is that the magazine holder itself needs a lot of force to rotate the mag. You can open it up and do a little polishing and cleaning and it does help some. Be careful - parts inside there like to fly away! And it can be a little tricky to reassemble. But do it - it helps.

I have seen an excellent disassembly thread on another forum https://www.airgunforum.ca/forums/topic85962.html

He includes a number of comments on things to do to improve the action. Springs to change, things to polish, etc. A lot of it will be evident just from the photos.

It'll never be your 1 pound pull target rifle. But it can be a lot better than stock.

FWIW, I haven't done anything to the second rifle. It's box stock. The magazine holder, yes, but the rifle itself, no.

Andy
 
I don't think anybody will accuse the gun of having a good trigger. There are so many other positives that it kinda gets lost in the shuffle, though. I bought a second one, so obviously I must not think it THAT bad.

In double action mode it isn't very nice. I only shoot it that way when I'm trying to keep a can dancing after a hit. Part of the problem is that the magazine holder itself needs a lot of force to rotate the mag. You can open it up and do a little polishing and cleaning and it does help some. Be careful - parts inside there like to fly away! And it can be a little tricky to reassemble. But do it - it helps.

I have seen an excellent disassembly thread on another forum https://www.airgunforum.ca/forums/topic85962.html

He includes a number of comments on things to do to improve the action. Springs to change, things to polish, etc. A lot of it will be evident just from the photos.

It'll never be your 1 pound pull target rifle. But it can be a lot better than stock.

FWIW, I haven't done anything to the second rifle. It's box stock. The magazine holder, yes, but the rifle itself, no.

Andy