Umarex Gauntlet: Super Tune Kit Installation (VIDEO)

As promised earlier, a pic of my gauntlets with extended tanks and the Hajimoto barrel bands attached. I think they look pretty good.

I'll try to get a heat gun to loose the reg from the bottle, I also notice that the threads have some sort of rubber threadlock (if you can call that way jeje) and I think that's the key to loose it more easily.
I'll post any progress.

"Alejandroo"I'll try to get a heat gun to loose the reg from the bottle, I also notice that the threads have some sort of rubber threadlock (if you can call that way jeje) and I think that's the key to loose it more easily.
I'll post any progress.

Click to expand...

Yep most likely thread locker. I've taken many regulators apart over the past few years and never seen one with thread lock on it. I think that the manufacturers are starting to do this to stop law suits. Guys posting how to do it on you tube and then "unqualified" guys attempting to change them. When you buy a regulator there are instructions that installation is to be completed by a Qualified Air Smith. Ninja does NOT want people removing the regulators. As part of their manual here is the warning if you notice you reg has unscrewed. (If there is any gap between the reg and tank)

STOP!!! DO NOT FILL
OR USE YOUR SYSTEM.
Place the system on
the ground and wait for the system to
FULLY DEGAS! Contact a qualified
airsmith IMMEDIATELY!
OR CALL 1.877.NINJAUSA
(1.877.646.5287) for assistance


And for those using heat - here is Ninja's warning about taking the bonnet off to change the pressure.

DO NOT APPLY HEAT! If the bonnet does not easily unscrew, MAKE
SURE THE SYSTEM IS COMPLETELY DEGASSED BY DEPRESSING THE
BALL VALVE TO EXHAUST ANY TRAPPED GAS.

http://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/3e81ed_80a9ddafb7c04dd58c2a89c1373683b9.pdf

Degassing is stage one to taking the bottle off the gun. It wasn't air which made it difficult to remove. Alejandroo I think that's a good description of what's on there a sort of rubbery threadlocker.

Haji, I've been waiting for this video and now I can't wait for the next one. Never thought about a power adjustment. Where will it stop.? keep the mods coming.

Well, the power upgrade is another great video. Your take on an LDC will be of interest even though living in the country I don't need it to cut the sound signature down.

Keep your videos coming.

Hoping I can get to mine before being underwater ruins it !! No flood insurance since I am disabled on SSDI so not even close to affordable.. Airguns were my way to deal with being disabled..mine is the little yellow house... It will be weeks before I can get to it..

Is the actual power adjustment taking place inside the new tube plug? Is there a moveable part that is extended to bear against the spring plunger? Just trying to understand how it does the adjusting.

Cosmic, so sorry, been there, if you've trailer & desire to live in WA a while stop on by & you can bring the grandchildren .

Jonah et al. , you can easily make a pre-load adjuster just by drilling & tapping your factory end cap offset so it clears the center bolt. A drop mof thread locker keeps a clean look.

(Not a "clean look" but you get the idea)


John

Thanks John but I am in Illinois.. Lost my car also.. Thanks for offer...

Awesome! Thanks Haji for all your time spent! I cant wait to watch the video after work. And the next one too!

I am wondering about a poppet in the kit. As far as I could see it makes the spring a little relaxed. Would it be a better to shave the original poppet to recess the spring seat? At least it has a seal. 
Anxious to see the shooting test. 

+1
"The issue is that the overall surface area of the factory poppet is too large and heavy which require way to much hammer energy to overcome it."

You want that "poppet" valve stem whatever you'll call it. The factory one is THE biggest hold back to power and or consistency and does improve efficiency. I'm using a white nylon (?) poppet in both a QB and the Gauntlet.
If Umarex really is bringing out this model in .25 , and, the power is what they are hoping for claiming regarless of ( reasonable) psi they would need to dump the standard metal poppet, IMO.

That spring adjuster pic - for a QB- is just a grab from the internet, I had a neighbor drill & tap a 2.5mm hole and a long headless Hex screw which hides flush when backed out w/ a touch of vibra-tite. Very clean that way.
John

"spysir"+1
"The issue is that the overall surface area of the factory poppet is too large and heavy which require way to much hammer energy to overcome it."
You want that "poppet" valve stem whatever you'll call it. The factory one is THE biggest hold back to power and or consistency and does improve efficiency. I'm using a white nylon (?) poppet in both a QB and the Gauntlet.
If Umarex really is bringing out this model in .25 , and, the power is what they are hoping for claiming regarless of ( reasonable) psi they would need to dump the standard metal poppet, IMO.
That spring adjuster pic - for a QB- is just a grab from the internet, I had a neighbor drill & tap a 2.5mm hole and a long headless Hex screw which hides flush when backed out w/ a touch of vibra-tite. Very clean that way.
John

Click to expand...

John,

Are the QB and gauntlet poppet the same? I would think so. If they are Roy at Mountain Air has them for $12 in 'delrin. Someone who can drill and tap the end cap could do this upgrade for $20.

"Hajimoto"The issue is that the overall surface area of the factory poppet is too large and heavy which require way to much hammer energy to overcome it.

Click to expand...

The weight and the shape of the original poppet could be easily altered on the lathe or drill. The air pressure on the valve poppet is a function of the surface of the valve port only and that did not change. My concern that a new poppet in the kit is a downgrade due to lack of the seal and a potential for leaks. 
These are the assumptions that the poppet in the kit is made out of steel.