Umarex Gauntlet: Super Tune Kit Installation (VIDEO)

Forums PCP Airguns Umarex Gauntlet: Super Tune Kit Installation (VIDEO)

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    JOKER708
    Participant
    Member

    New results are in out of correct tin of pellet after shims
    16.2 JSB
    766 
    767
    766. Avg 765 SD. 1.0 
    765
    765
    increase of approx 50fps but cut SD IN HALF 
    with unweighed pellets —

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    fpgt72
    Spectator
    Spectator

    “spysir”BTB, thanks for the reg checker parts links!
    I still do not have any poi shift with my Qauntlet ( .177 ) , strip it down to the airtube & reassemble and it’s w/in 4 clicks, lay it down any ole way and it’s just fine.
    If wanting to stiffen it up a bit the Qauntlet is a better design than a QB – which you needed to drill & tap holes in the receiver for extra screws- as you can remove the receiver w/out removing the barrel this design will allow bonding the barrel in place , the Bam50 was this way, same three grooves but filled with epoxy ish bonding agent. If ever needing to remove barrel from receiver just heat it up a bit and pull.
    It might also be interesting to bond or attach ( using screws ) the shroud mount to the receiver. I personally see no reason to go there but it wouldnt be hard to try.
    Biggest problem I’ve seen on mine if looking for more power would be the valve exhaust port NOT lining up with the hole in air tube and/or transfer port.
    On mine the exhaust hole is partially cover by the transfer port tube. As the valve  too far to the rear there is really no way to remedy this w/out a good bit of work. As I have no plans on hopping this one up it isnt an issue, and maybe mine is that way b ut most arent? ( I would love to hear from others if there TP is centered or not as if some are centered I would chance ordering a new valve).
    I was planning on some 100 yards shooting with it today buit I wasnt planning on 6″ of new snow, I’ll post up some groups in the nest week or sao.
    John
     

    
Mine does not seem to mind leaning on the barrel as well…I just lean it in the corner walk down to change targets or whatever and I don’t have to mess with a thing….this is indoor at 25 yards….so perhaps it is too close in to see anything?  I don’t know.  Outside I usually leave it on the rest, but in the case it is in the rack on the barrel and I don’t remember having any issues from one session to the next.

    I checked Pyrmaid and it looks like my JSB order finally shipped….I am keen to see if it likes those better then H&N.

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    kainevil
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    Hajimoto, being as you’ve done more to your guns than anyone else at the moment I think that qualifies you as resident expert. I’m looking at longer tanks for mine and may have found the tanks SG mentioned in one of his threads. I don’t know the shroud dimensions in the measuments given from China though. Can you weigh in on whether or not these tanks will work for our guns?
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F132341499335
    thank you.

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    spysir
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    K,
    Just in case it helps, any under 2″ tank ( with the correct threads ) will fit just fine. Your linl list’s a tank
    with a dia of 1.96″ and standard paintball threads.
    John

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    kainevil
    Participant
    Member

    Thank you. I’d previously ordered tanks when I first got my guns but either mine or the listers math was off because in actuality the tanks were 2 1/2 in wide so they fit on the gun but I couldn’t get the shroud back on. I wanted to avoid repeating that mistake. I’ll go ahead and order those then. I’ve already ordered Hajimoto’s barrel bands which fit on the tank and since these tanks stick out a little further than stock that should give more support closer to the fore-end. That potentially opens the door for a moderator down the road once the shroud adaptors are made. I’m not savvy enough to be poking around on the insides yet (I just messed up my xisico sentry while modifying the auto safety) so I’m sticking to external upgrades for now. Thanks for your help on this one.

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    Hajimoto
    Participant
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    Looks like I was too late for the party ​😔 sorry about that. 
     

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    kainevil
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    No worries, I’ll post pics with the tanks and barrel bands on when I get them in.

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    noobiePCP101
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    the .23ci tanks floating around the internet seems to be the one that works with the bottle shroud. Another solution would be to have Haji make a custom bottle shroud using his 3d printer for the .38ci tank. jk.

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    Alejandroo
    Participant
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    Here’s my new bottle and reg that bought form China, this weekend I’ll try to take the reg apart and see the internals, I’ll post on the correct thread for it, have a great weekend all of you !
    Alejandro

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    Ulaua
    Participant
    Member

    I want to put a bigger gauge on my Gauntlet. What thread is the factory gauge?

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    Alejandroo
    Participant
    Member

    I tried to remove the reg yesterday, I put the bottle on a vice and remove all the screws, the fill port and the gauge but  I couldn’t unscrew the reg out of the bottle, it was extremely tight on the bottle, I tried several times I even heat up (just slightly) the collar of the bottle to see if that will be enough to loosen the reg but NOT a CHANCE !!! And then just in the last attempt (I was trying with a pipe wrench to loose the damn thing) I scratch the reg with the metal teeth of the wrench so there goes the warranty !!!! :) :).
    Dosn’t matter really since I bought this rifle to make mods and all I just want it to keep it unharmed for a little bit longer.
    Thank for your patience on this little banter, so I’m all ears now on how to remove the reg out, as anyone else have the same issue ?
     

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    cosmic
    Participant
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    Some just remove the fill adapter (male foster fitting) and use a long bolt screwed into it to use to remove it..  You can also use a cheater on the bolt.. That is what sold as a removal tool in the rebuild kits.. 1/8″ I believe..

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    cosmic
    Participant
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      You can also use a piece of wood and make a hole in it slighty smaller than the regulator body and split it in half.. Remove the gauge , fill port , and burst plugs from the regulator body.. Place the wood with the regulator in a vice, tighten and use a strap wrench on the bottle.. You can also make a tool from a socket and grinding slots in it to fit the gauge, fill port and burst plugs and then place a extention that fits the socket in the vise.. Attach the  tool to the extension then place the regulator in the tool and using a strap wrench on the bottle remove it..
      Wood would be easier if your not going to do this many times..
                Ray

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    spysir
    Participant
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    Your warranty was finished scratch or not, maybe a sharpie.
    Cosmic is correct the Ninja regulator ships with a ” removal tool” a bolt around 1/8th which goes in the fill port hole I believe, this extra leverage can really help!

    You’ve googled “Ninja regulator rebuild” right?  Any of the factory vids will show removing the top and the “pro” series shows the bevele washer stack, regular 850psi uses the coil spring.

    John
     

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    Alejandroo
    Participant
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    Thanks Cosmic
    But unfortunately I tried almost all the things you describe above, the only one left is screwing a bolt on to burst plugs and use them as a better lever to apply force to it, I’ll take longer on that since I have to find/buy the bolt with the correct threads to screw it.
    I’ll report on my progress.

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    BigTinBoat
    Participant
    Member

    “Alejandroo”Thanks Cosmic
    But unfortunately I tried almost all the things you describe above, the only one left is screwing a bolt on to burst plugs and use them as a better lever to apply force to it, I’ll take longer on that since I have to find/buy the bolt with the correct threads to screw it.
    I’ll report on my progress.

    
I find it much easier to leave the foster fill nipple in the reg and put that end between your wooden blocks. Close loosely on the reg bonnet with the vice, then the nipple will stop it from turning. Use a strap wrench on the bottle to turn it. The 13ci’s are easy, this wrench will even turn the 68ci and 90ci bottles

    Under $10

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-Strap-Wrench-H8STRAPWR/300117125

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    Alejandroo
    Participant
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    Ok, I’ll give it another go and let you now of how all ended up (fingers cross), thanks for the input.
     

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    kainevil
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    So I just went through this yesterday. I tried for days and only got frustrated but I finally got it. I got a 20 dollar table clamp and a 13 dollar heat gun, both from harbour freight and it made all the difference in the world. The way that actually worked was removing all the hardware from the reg (10mm and 1/2 inch deep socket and 19mm wrench) and then using a 5/64th Allen wrench, completely remove the adjustment screws at the top of the reg. With those out you should be able to unscrew the top part by hand. That gets the o-rings out of the way so they don’t get damaged. On the base where the fill plug came out it says 3000 psi, there’s a little flat spot there and one that lines up with it on the other side. That’s where I clamped it in the vise. I heated the bottle right at the neck all the way around for several minutes then clamped it very firmly in the vise. I used big jawed robogrip pliers to turn the bottle and presto that sucker finally came out. I think that strap wrench that was mentioned might have been better to turn the bottle in hindsight. Also stay near the neck and keep the heat rotating with the heat gun as the reg threads are plastic. Too much in one place too long could damage them. Now reassemble the reg parts and it’s good to go for whatever you were doing in the first place.

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    BigTinBoat
    Participant
    Member

    “kainevil”So I just went through this yesterday. I tried for days and only got frustrated but I finally got it. I got a 20 dollar table clamp and a 13 dollar heat gun, both from harbour freight and it made all the difference in the world. The way that actually worked was removing all the hardware from the reg (10mm and 1/2 inch deep socket and 19mm wrench) and then using a 5/64th Allen wrench, completely remove the adjustment screws at the top of the reg. With those out you should be able to unscrew the top part by hand. That gets the o-rings out of the way so they don’t get damaged. On the base where the fill plug came out it says 3000 psi, there’s a little flat spot there and one that lines up with it on the other side. That’s where I clamped it in the vise. I heated the bottle right at the neck all the way around for several minutes then clamped it very firmly in the vise. I used big jawed robogrip pliers to turn the bottle and presto that sucker finally came out. I think that strap wrench that was mentioned might have been better to turn the bottle in hindsight. Also stay near the neck and keep the heat rotating with the heat gun as the reg threads are plastic. Too much in one place too long could damage them. Now reassemble the reg parts and it’s good to go for whatever you were doing in the first place.
     


    Personally I’ve NEVER seen a Ninja nor Chinese reg that has any plastic threads. I have serious doubts that plastic threading would hold up to 3000psi.

    Also – when you got it apart was there thread locker on the threads?

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    kainevil
    Participant
    Member

    Honestly I didn’t give it super close inspection I was so glad to have it off I wanted it back in the new bottle before something else went wrong. That said there was some black stringy bits in the threads which I presumed to be threadlocker. I know it wouldn’t budge before I heated it. The threads appeared plastic to me, I could be wrong but better safe than sorry right?

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