Tuning TX200 Problem

I have a Vortex PG4 kit in my .177 TX200. With 2 coils clipped it’s still making 12.5fpe with HN 8.62gr and is very accurate. Problem is that the shot cycle is still harsh with a distinct metallic “ping”. My other springers tuned to around 12fpe have a much more gentle shot cycle concluding in a nice solid thud. What do you think I should do to fix this without giving up any FPS? Uj
 
You will not regret getting a Tony Leach kit. I have them in both of my TX200HCs. With the spacing washers, you can get anything from just around 12 fpe down to about 10.5 which I have my guns set at.

The second kit I got was a 22mm complete drop-in with compression tube and no bear trap groves. I have a MK1 that does not have the bear trap, so now I do not have to adjust my thinking when switching between. I can also pull the whole kit out and put the original back in if I want to move the kit to another TX or sell a TX. I'll be keeping this kit that was not cheap by any means, but you get what you pay for.

Tim
 
I installed a PG4 12lbs kit in my HW97 MK1 with the 2 metal washers. This caused some problems with cocking and the firing cycle was harsh. The undelever retention spring also buzzed. I removed the washers and this cleared up the problems. There is a small amount of preload, but I didnt need a compressor. I also applied a light coat of JM tar to the spring. The shot cycle is quick and vibration free now. 
 
This will been interpreted as blasphemy to some, but I would try just a mi-nute amount of heavy tar like Macari sells in his kits - a tiny smear on the top hat & rear guide- 

worth a try




I would agree with this to try a quick fix..trying to detune a fac gun down to 12 ft lbs can cause a longer shot cycle and spring ringing . A spring dampening compound may stop the ring if that is the issue. I have found the best results have been finding the longer piston designed for 12 fpe operation gives much better results by shortening the shot cycle as the piston doesnt have to travel as far. Cant say for certain whether the Vortec kit is an issue as I havent used them. 
 
The problem with tuning the MK3 down to 12fpe levels is the shot cycle ends up very long and lazy from the excessively long stroke length. 

The metallic cling you hear can be from the compression tube or transfer port pinging against the barrel or receiver when the spring unloads at the end of the stroke. 

You don't notice it at full power because the spring has enough preload to overcome it. 

Or, you could have lockup issues with cocking shoe/cocking arm and its the cocking shoe rattling on the compression tube. 

Pop two fresh new breech seals in it and see if it changes. 

That's exactly the reasons I don't shoot TXs anymore....


 
I had always thought that the TX 200 is supposed to be a perfectly tuned spring gun straight from the factory. 

And that is why they carry a hefty price tag.

If the TX 200 needs to be gone through and tuned or end user repaired after purchased new I would think might be better off tuning a cheaper German made HW 97.

I have had 4 TXs and haven't seen the "legendary quality" that others speak of yet.


 
I had always thought that the TX 200 is supposed to be a perfectly tuned spring gun straight from the factory. 

And that is why they carry a hefty price tag.

If the TX 200 needs to be gone through and tuned or end user repaired after purchased new I would think might be better off tuning a cheaper German made HW 97.

I thought so too, then I bought one, it was buzzy and didn't shoot as well or any better than my Diana 34 with a Vortek kit. After installing a Vortek full power PG4 kit and some work on the trigger it shoots very well.
 
With the exception of some high quality 10 meter match rifles, most all production assembled spring powered rifles will benefit from some work after they leave the factory. Yep..for the price you pay, we should expect better, but it isnt gonna happen as long as sales are good. I choose the TX because the stock fit me better then the HW 77 or 97. I also prefer the factvthe TX is so much easier to work on, but those are my opinions, yours may differ......
 
With the exception of some high quality 10 meter match rifles, most all production assembled spring powered rifles will benefit from some work after they leave the factory. Yep..for the price you pay, we should expect better, but it isnt gonna happen as long as sales are good. I choose the TX because the stock fit me better then the HW 77 or 97. I also prefer the factvthe TX is so much easier to work on, but those are my opinions, yours may differ......

Very true, and it doesn't only apply to air guns.



I was somewhat disappointed with my TX200, with all the hype I'd read I was just expecting more. Having said that I'm a tinkerer, always have been, I like to see what makes things work. The TX200 is only the third sporter air rifle I've owned, a Diana 48 and 34, I've taken all three rifles apart and installed Vortek spring kits, it has improved every one of them. In fact, I've been into every air gun I own, 3 FWB 300S's, a FWB 601 and a FWB 80 pistol. So, in all honesty I should've known it would only be a matter of time until I had to take the TX200 apart, LOL. AirShot is correct about how easy they are to work on too.



I do really like this rifle now, it fits me well, it shoots great and it's easy to look at. One of these days I'd like to hold and shoot a 77/97 but I don't see me selling the TX200 to own one.












 
I’m concerned that the harsh slammy shot cycle may be due to piston bounce. I’ve been advised that this can be corrected by going with a SMALLER (sounds counterintuitive) transfer port. So is this something that can be done by me or do I need a tuner? Uj

Out of curiosity how do you make the transfer port smaller? Weld it up and re drill? I was under the impression you could make them bigger but not smaller.