Tuxing double cylinder pcp air compressor - taking the plunge.

Thanks Eagle. Truth is, the bucket and submersible pump system worked just as well for free as the $250 I spent upgrading the cooling system. It was a project I wanted to do to see if I could build an AV type unit, as good as the AV unit, and have the cost be at least $500 less. Plus, it was a lot of fun for me being the typical “nuke” that I am. . The true improvements (and not just upgrades) are the filter/dryer and the valve outlet block cooling. That part is still in progress. The air tubing gets very hot on this and the AV, compared to the AC which runs very cool (mainly because the compressor turns at 1/3 the speed of the AV). I am installing a Peltier Plate Thermoelectric cooling system on the outlet valve block. Not expensive, about $8 on eBay. Just waiting on the two TEC plates. Appreciate the compliment. As always, accuracy points are welcomed. 

Yes, I know that’s the conventional wisdom. And I intend to in a bit (which is why the filter/dryer is attached with straps). But I’m doing a little experiment to see if any and how much condensate ends up in the horizontal filter. I have the input of the filter almost a foot in elevation above the valve block output, and I have a theory that the relative locations are significant. So I have the 1.5 inch cotton tampon and then about a teaspoon of the orange color changing silica, and then the Zeolite followed by another 1.5 inch cotton tampon (inlet to outlet). I want to see if and how much gets past the tampon in an hour of operation. Just curious. Thanks for the input. 

Update on Outlet Valve Block cooling on Tuxing Project. It turns out the Peltier Plate (TEC1-12706, 12 vdc, 60 watt version) requires more heat sink on the "hot side" than space available where the valve block is located. So, I ended up scrapping that idea and only using (5) 40mm x 40mm aluminum heat sinks attached to the outlet valve block, and a small 75mm 12 vdc blower directed at the valve block. I know the valve block without the heat sinks and fan used to get kinda hot to the touch, but I don't have a temperature number. It was hot enough that I could only keep my hand on it for a couple of seconds without getting too uncomfortable. FYI, the steel tubing from the first to second stage and second stage to valve block gets very hot, too hot to touch without getting burned. Now, with the heat sinks and fan, the valve block is warm, but more like a hot shower warm... So it is having a positive effect on the compressor outlet air temperature.



75mm 12 vdc blower - $3.77
Five (5) 40mm x 40mm heat sinks with adhesive - $4.99
Total cost - $8.76

Thanks Imold, yes, I do/did already know that. I’m really trying to come up with the reasoning behind it though. Is it because the flow is more uniform through the media when it’s in a vertical vice horizontal position? Does it have something to do with condensate collecting at the bottom (vertical) and not spreading along the cylinder (horizontal)? I’m pretty much stuck on the reasoning behind the conventional wisdom. I’d like to hear some thoughts and logic behind this? Thanks. 

Brian, I did it for the fun, and so anyone else on AGN could copy what I did and know it would work. I did it because I like to tinker, and wanted to see if I could build an AV (as good or better) for approx $800 vice the AV cost of $1300, plus another $100 or so for the filter/dryer. So, for about $600 less than an AV I have mechanically the same compressor with an improved cooling system and improved filter/dryer. And the satisfaction of a project well done. Of course adding in labor hours probably jacks me up past the cost of an AV... It might not make sense to some, since the sump pump and bucket cooling worked just as well. But you could make the same argument against the AV which mechanically is a Tuxing with some cooling and other minor modifications. 

You're welcome. Anything for my AGN brothers... Don't forget to sandwich it between the 1.5 inch cotton tampons, and also to get about an inch of compression if you are using the large gold cylinder, or at least some compression of you are using the smaller tubes... I fill the Zeolite up to the point where with the tampon level is right at the top of the threads so I can just barely start threading the cap on. Then threading that inch of travel compresses the tampon/Zeolite sandwich. When I shake it I hear nothing... I also started "salting" my Zeolite with Silica Gel beads on recommendation of Thurmond (T3PRanch), the ones that are orange and turn green when they absorb water. Just a small amount mixed in with the zeolite, less than a teaspoon. This way when you open up the tube you can see if you need to replace the Zeolite or not. Link below for Silica Gel beads. I ordered two, and it'll work for at least ten change outs of the Zeolite...

http://r.ebay.com/x2Qwcj

Mike

You're welcome. Yes, I think that's a very good compressor oil. It doesn't turn black like some of the hydraulic oils that people are using. Just gradually turns a Deeper Purple, but doesn't look bad and doesn't smell burnt - no Smoke on the Water!. I only have two hours run time on my compressor, but that's about 7 top offs from 3000 to 4500 psi on an 88 cubic foot tank (60 minute). I did change it out after the first hour, just because, and the oil that was drained was fine and would have lasted much longer.

Interesting. I assume you’re using a quality SYNTHETIC air compressor oil? It should take about 15 to 20 minutes to top off the tank you’re using. Check all the connections and tighten as necessary. You can’t hear small leaks when the compressor is running. You may have a slightly leaking check valve. Each stage has a simple inlet and outlet check valve. If you remove the tubing you’ll see them. Try removing them and cleaning them and lightly lube with silicon grease, then reassemble. I’m not sure if the second stage outlet check valve is at the cylinder head outlet or the inlet to the aluminum valve block. Also, take a look at the blowout disc, it may be starting to leak. If neither of those suggestions work I’d remove the HP cylinder head and check the four small rings. You may have had dieseling which degrades them. I’ve used the Royal Purple and have not had any issues. PS. Do not overfill with the oil. At the red dot is sufficient. Mine also throws out a light mist when using so I fill with my garage door open. The amount decreases as the compressor breaks in. PPS. NO lube at all on the second stage rings or cylinder. 
Mike

I don't have a photo of mine, but I don't remember there being an o-ring in there. If cleaning and lightly lubing the check valve assemble with silicon grease doesn't work, I'd replace them. You can buy them on AliExpress if you look at the Tuxing or WhiteWhale vendor sections. Did you disassemble the cylinder and piston arrangement at all? If you assembled the small pencil size piston and rings with any lubricant at all you'll certainly have problems. That section is made to be assembled DRY with no lubrication at all. We can all take a look at what you have and are doing if you attach a few photos....
​Mike