Hey guys, I pulled the trigger on my new bobcat and don't like the first stage. As this is my first bobcat I don't want to mess anything up playing with this without getting some feedback first. Thanks Steve.
Trigger adjustment on the bobcat .30 mk2
- Thread starter SteveS.
- Start date
I'm not sure about the first stage. I did lighten the second stage on my .22 Bobcat ( 13.5 oz) and it's made all the difference with accuracy. I had to pull it from the stock and remove the pressure gage to adjust - you need to reattach the gauge and air tube to test. AOA said to never pull the trigger without the air tube attached or some sort of damage could occur. You may need to realign the linkage and tighten the pivot point screw. Hopefully someone on this site could further help with a diagram.
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I believe I read somewhere on a forum but can't recall, getting old sucks, it's one of those things I really wasn't paying much attention to because I didn't have one at that time....I could just call AoA. I might wait awhile to see if a couple of bobcat members post, I know a lot of them in here has the bobcat.....for sure. Anyway, thanks for your post. Best Steve
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Should be able to adjust the MKII the same way as the 1st variant....
Get a spare set of allen wrenches cut the Short L section down to size. they should just ease in under the gauge. makes it quite easy.
Get a spare set of allen wrenches cut the Short L section down to size. they should just ease in under the gauge. makes it quite easy.
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So I have to take the air tube off and pull the stock, then I can get over the air gage with a shorten L wrench. Is it metric? 2. 2.5 maybe. (I don't want to cut a few Allen wrenches if I don't have to...best Steve
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Sorry i don't remember the Sizes . but yeh pop the stock off.
Then to test it just Hold the side lever back while pulling the trigger. That way hammer doesn't strike the valve. with no air in the gun u risk possibly crushing a valve spring.
Then to test it just Hold the side lever back while pulling the trigger. That way hammer doesn't strike the valve. with no air in the gun u risk possibly crushing a valve spring.
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It's a 2.5mm Steve, I found that mine was locked solid though and my Allen wrench was starting to try and strip the head so I backed off and used a pair of baby mole grips on the grub screw. A little barbaric I know but I figured once I had it set I wouldn't be changing it again and it wouldn't budge with the Allen wrench
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Thanks guys, guess I have to bleed this out and start taking it apart. Anything else I need to know? Steve
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You don't need to depressurise the cylinder to remove it, if that's why you mean by bleed it out. It's a self contained unit, just unscrew it a few turns and let it hiss until it stops then finish removing the cylinder.
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Try not to lose the rubber ball behind the stock grub screw. You can put a piece of electrical tape over the hole on the inside of the stock to hold it in place. I use a Ridgid strap wrench to remove the air cylinder.
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Ben, I didn't know you could take the tube off without decompressing it. So I can buy a couple of air cylinders to take out hunting with me instead of taking out my big one then. Learn something new everyday.
Nat, are you referring to the screw that tightens down on the air tube? Best and thanks guys, Steve
Nat, are you referring to the screw that tightens down on the air tube? Best and thanks guys, Steve
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Once u take the screw off there is a small rubber ball at the end of the screw. It provides a cushion for the screw and the tank rests on the ball. Check the link below. You will see the rubber ball.
1.58 mins is where he takes the cylinder off and you hear the hissing sound. 9.50 mins is where he shows you the rubber ball. Hope this helps.
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Steve, what about the first stage do you not like. The pull length? Finger position? I ask because different screws do different things.
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Ted, length of pull is what I should of said. I looked up in the manual but it doesn't quite give how to get to the settings, hence the reason for asking. As I said above, it's breaks to the second stage almost all the way back to the trigger guard. My verminator was set perfect and I didn't have to play with it at all except for the cant on the trigger itself. So now with this one, I was alittle confused as to why so much pull it had. Steve
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The generic FX manual shows what each of the screws on the trigger do for adjusting Steve. From what I remember, the one behind the trigger is weight of pull and the other is length of pull.
And yes you could take extra cylinders, which you can get in different sizes too! But don't forget your 5mm Allen wrench for the grub screw with the rubber ball. And don't tighten it down too hard when you put it back, you will deform it. Just watch it leaning against the cylinder and when it has pushed the cylinder to the uppermost face of the inside of the stock it is tight enough.
And yes you could take extra cylinders, which you can get in different sizes too! But don't forget your 5mm Allen wrench for the grub screw with the rubber ball. And don't tighten it down too hard when you put it back, you will deform it. Just watch it leaning against the cylinder and when it has pushed the cylinder to the uppermost face of the inside of the stock it is tight enough.
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Yup I started fettling with it last night. Hope it works out ok. It's one of the down falls, in my opinion about the fx airguns, there not so user friendly. Anyway thanks so much everyone. Ted maybe you could do a little clip of this for newly owned fx owners. Of course I say this knowingly that it is a hefty job to do a 5 minute review. But I'll ask anyway
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And one more thing, which I really don't understand well, if you working on the trigger how can you see if the trigger is were you want with out firing weapon? to see if you like it or not. Hhhmmm.... Steve
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with the stock off, screw bottle back on. i lay my gun without stock on a towel outside and dry fire it
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