TORQUEING STOCK SCREWS

When I was shooting rimfire rifles, I torqued my stocks screws to increase accuracy. I did this to my Anschutz, MY CZ 452 , and my Cooper JSR. Have any of you torqued the screws on your air rifle, to increase accuracy? I know air guns are a different animal, but I live to get any gun I own, to shoot as accurate as I can get it to. If any of you have torqued the stock, what were your results.
 
I always torque mine but today "finally" figured out why my TX200 stock screw that screws into the screw that holds the trigger group and spring in the airgun tube was always needing to be tightened up. It was the screw that holds the trigger group in that was backing out, and not the trigger guard screw which holds the stock also. It didn't take much there to cause the rifle to vertical string a group of shots. It seems simple but I just thought the walnut was a little unstable.
 
on a springer using metal cups and posting the back screw is the way to go, that way you're not always having to tighten the screws as the wood compresses. Also the use of blue loc-tite or vibra-tite are essential to keep them from backing out. On a pcp there are factory torque specs for every screw and they should be followed as over torquing of steel screws into what are mostly aluminum and brass will cause fatigue and eventual failure of the threads. I know as I had to have my breech drilled, tapped and rethreaded for a couple of screws from over torquing that lead to stripping. Over torquing the one, or two stock screws on a pcp, or springer can cause temperature induced shifts. This is because parts of airtube, or valve body ect are now binding against each other or the stock. I hope this helps.