The UTG 2-7x32 is a handgun scope and eye relief is like 13” to 24”, I like using the handgun scope off bench but not so much freehand.
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Tinkering with the Bandit. Any pistol shooting tips?
- Thread starter Long_Gun_Dallas
- Start date
So, I cobbled some junk together 
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I was going to suggest something like a limb saver device for a bow, but that would need a forward stock screw and room for it. It should all but eliminate the problem, but i don't see where one could be used here.
Maybe a barrel band with threads on the bottom that could even be slid up and down the air cylinder to fine tune the gun.
Maybe a barrel band with threads on the bottom that could even be slid up and down the air cylinder to fine tune the gun.
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I like that idea 
I've actually done a lot of work on the stock/grip. Reducing the size and weight. I've got an adaptor to run multiple moderators I have. Some weigh significantly less or more than the factory one.
But removing weight from the back of the gun has moved center of balance forward. I think this shifted the flip axis forward as well. That and reducing trigger wight with a lighter sear spring has helped tremendously. I'm actually running a moderator that is lighter than stock, and am able to shoot with very good accuracy. Very hard to miss a 12oz can at 25 yards even if I'm lazy.
I've actually done a lot of work on the stock/grip. Reducing the size and weight. I've got an adaptor to run multiple moderators I have. Some weigh significantly less or more than the factory one. But removing weight from the back of the gun has moved center of balance forward. I think this shifted the flip axis forward as well. That and reducing trigger wight with a lighter sear spring has helped tremendously. I'm actually running a moderator that is lighter than stock, and am able to shoot with very good accuracy. Very hard to miss a 12oz can at 25 yards even if I'm lazy.
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I like your end cap. Can you tell me more about it? My .22 is one hole-ing at 10 yards without the LDC.
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I was waiting for your rmr cone to come in. How is the clarity? How deep is the color in the window. I use mine at night and need almost clear.
Yoy ca lower that sight a lot. It is far too high in relation to the bore, making shot low at close range.
I first mounted the ADE holo on the dovetail with a spring loaded dovetail to picatinny rail adapter. It is much lower than what your set up is. I still wasn't satisfied and actually machined the base plate down, removing the clamps, and drilled and mounted the base plate directly to the action. Next, I will more than likely mill the top of the action, removing the dovetail completely for a very low mount.
I will include a pic as it is now before milling the top of the receiver.
I'm a hand gunner. Here is a trick to control rotation of the pistol as it is being fired. Grip with shooting hand, and use support hand, with it slid up as high as possible under the trigger guard. Now, here is the trick.
This entails manipulating your palms. With the left, supporting hand, turn in the palm with a bit of force. Not much, just enough to stabilize your grip. Imagine opening a jar lid with you left hand. This is the direction you want to use to put pressure between your palm and the center to rear of the side of the grip.
With the shooting hand, do the opposite, Imagine tightening the jar lid. Practice this and you will see a steadier hold, with much less movement when the trigger breaks.
The same technique is used to lessen movement in recoil in pb's as well.
Knife
I
Yoy ca lower that sight a lot. It is far too high in relation to the bore, making shot low at close range.
I first mounted the ADE holo on the dovetail with a spring loaded dovetail to picatinny rail adapter. It is much lower than what your set up is. I still wasn't satisfied and actually machined the base plate down, removing the clamps, and drilled and mounted the base plate directly to the action. Next, I will more than likely mill the top of the action, removing the dovetail completely for a very low mount.
I will include a pic as it is now before milling the top of the receiver.
I'm a hand gunner. Here is a trick to control rotation of the pistol as it is being fired. Grip with shooting hand, and use support hand, with it slid up as high as possible under the trigger guard. Now, here is the trick.
This entails manipulating your palms. With the left, supporting hand, turn in the palm with a bit of force. Not much, just enough to stabilize your grip. Imagine opening a jar lid with you left hand. This is the direction you want to use to put pressure between your palm and the center to rear of the side of the grip.
With the shooting hand, do the opposite, Imagine tightening the jar lid. Practice this and you will see a steadier hold, with much less movement when the trigger breaks.
The same technique is used to lessen movement in recoil in pb's as well.
Knife
I
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That's a good tip! I'll give it a go 
As for the sight, it's got a red dot, so there is glare from it at night. There is a model that has adjustable brightness, and I'd recommend that one for low light. Mine does have excellent clarity. Especially when there's a lot of light out. I guess it's polarized? I didnt look into all the specs, to be honest. I just wanted a compact sight that would still fit in the case.
My problem with mounting it, is that it is meant for it's own style of mount (as I'm sure you know). So it ships with a picatinny adapter. Which my gun doesnt have So, I had to get a weaver to picatinny adapter. Which I had to modify as well to fit. I'm happy with it like it is, but it could absolutely be improved. There is a weaver adaptor for the sight, but I've spent enough on this gun that I basically just shoot for fun/plinking/target. I don't ever shoot it very close up. Usually 20-30 yards.
If I had tooling to, I have no doubt I'd machine a mount for it, and likely machine the receiver as well. But I dont
Not yet anyhow
Here is an updated pic of the woodwork I've done
As for the sight, it's got a red dot, so there is glare from it at night. There is a model that has adjustable brightness, and I'd recommend that one for low light. Mine does have excellent clarity. Especially when there's a lot of light out. I guess it's polarized? I didnt look into all the specs, to be honest. I just wanted a compact sight that would still fit in the case.
My problem with mounting it, is that it is meant for it's own style of mount (as I'm sure you know). So it ships with a picatinny adapter. Which my gun doesnt have
So, I had to get a weaver to picatinny adapter. Which I had to modify as well to fit. I'm happy with it like it is, but it could absolutely be improved. There is a weaver adaptor for the sight, but I've spent enough on this gun that I basically just shoot for fun/plinking/target. I don't ever shoot it very close up. Usually 20-30 yards.If I had tooling to, I have no doubt I'd machine a mount for it, and likely machine the receiver as well. But I dont
Not yet anyhow Here is an updated pic of the woodwork I've done
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The issue shouldnt be your LDC if your gun is like mine, you need to level out the front of the sight. When you screw the LDC on, it butts up against it, and mine was causing the LDC to lean off to one side. Pellets were actually clipping the baffles. I taped it off with some electrical take and got to work with a small flat file. Any LDC I put on line up perfectly now
That's a huma moderator BTW in my opinion the best LDC on the market for it's given caliber (mine is for 22 cal) I have a bagnall and kirkwood m10x1 to 1/2" UNF adaptor . I had to hog out some of the threads to get to to go all the way on, but it works. Funny thing is my factory mod with the way i've configured the baffles works just as good as the 22 cal huma mod, and better than quite a few others I have. Gun is a .177
(try flipping the last 3 baffles toward exit of the LDC the wrong way (cones pointing forward))
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What tool(s) did you use to modify the grip? Your newly styled grip looks pretty nice. I would love to do something like that.
Also, what did you use to make the design change? Modeling clay or something like it?
Best,
Kenkek
Also, what did you use to make the design change? Modeling clay or something like it?
Best,
Kenkek
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Newton's Third Law of Physics: For every action, there is an opposite and equal reaction.
If the mass/inertia of the end of the barrel and air cylinder are not equal, or greater, to the stored forward foot pounds of compressed spring energy pushing the hammer, the barrel MUST rise to equal/neutralize the forward release in energy/weight, produced by the compressed spring and hammer.
If you have the equipment...press the hammer back against the spring to measure how many foot pounds of energy it takes to cock the gun. I suggest you will be surprised at the outcome!
While it is true that the hammer impacting the valve pin will neutralize some of the forward energy of the released spring/hammer, we must remember there are milliseconds of delay prior to this taking place, but the reaction of the end of the barrel is instantaneous upon release of the spring. Thus, the muzzle moves, however slightly, and point of aimed impact will be slightly off.
A small weight near the end of the barrel, or a longer forearm on the hand grip may offset this equalization of energy release.
I harbor doubts that trigger adjustment can provide an effective solution to this problem, although a crisp trigger will always decrease overall pistol movement prior to the pellet leaving the muzzle!
Regards,
Kindly 'Ol Uncle Hoot
If the mass/inertia of the end of the barrel and air cylinder are not equal, or greater, to the stored forward foot pounds of compressed spring energy pushing the hammer, the barrel MUST rise to equal/neutralize the forward release in energy/weight, produced by the compressed spring and hammer.
If you have the equipment...press the hammer back against the spring to measure how many foot pounds of energy it takes to cock the gun. I suggest you will be surprised at the outcome!
While it is true that the hammer impacting the valve pin will neutralize some of the forward energy of the released spring/hammer, we must remember there are milliseconds of delay prior to this taking place, but the reaction of the end of the barrel is instantaneous upon release of the spring. Thus, the muzzle moves, however slightly, and point of aimed impact will be slightly off.
A small weight near the end of the barrel, or a longer forearm on the hand grip may offset this equalization of energy release.
I harbor doubts that trigger adjustment can provide an effective solution to this problem, although a crisp trigger will always decrease overall pistol movement prior to the pellet leaving the muzzle!
Regards,
Kindly 'Ol Uncle Hoot
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Excellent points. I've been practicing a lot, and have gotten a feel for/experienced all these variables in action. My gun does have a polished,lightened hammer, a shortened and stretched hammer spring, a super light sear spring, and fine adjustment to the sear/blade. All that seems to (via cleaner/lighter break and smoother/lighter hammer action) lend to more manageable and predictable inertial reaction.
I'm forever curious, so I think I will get a scale to measure tension required to set the hammer. I'm sure it would be of use for other things as well.
I also have all manner of moderators that will fit. A couple that can be lengthened or shortened. Effectively stabilizing the gun at the right length.
The last velocities I measured were all 641 and 640 fps across 10 shots. I feel cutting excess material from the grip served to balance the gun a bit as well.
My accuracy has really been picking up. But I've made this gun so nice, I think I'm kind of spoiled all over again
That will absolutely help, but at that point, I personally feel I may as well be using a rifle. I did put a scope on my pistol and rest it to test accuracy. And it was phenomenal. But I set it up to specifically shoot off-hand. And it's been doing extremely well.
I just used all manner of grinding/sanding tools. I honestly just went at it, and saw where the wood took me/what shape it wanted to become. I had something different in mind when I started cutting, but it took it's own direction.
I used an angle grinder with 120grit paddle wheel because there really was that much excess material, from there mixture of dremel sanding bits, and hand sanding with various grits. I've honestly never done any wood work before. But I did use a considerable amount of time and care. There is absolutely no way I could do this for someone else and have it even approach being worth my time
As for fitting it to my hand, I just slowly cut it down until it did. Seeing where it didnt, and making it right/making it flow with the rest of the piece.
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That will absolutely help, but at that point, I personally feel I may as well be using a rifle. I did put a scope on my pistol and rest it to test accuracy. And it was phenomenal. But I set it up to specifically shoot off-hand. And it's been doing extremely well.
Agree totally. I'm sure such a process helps accuracy and I often do similar for accuracy testing. But like you I shoot my pistols offhand. Different strokes.
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Go to Buck-Rail.com and see his new AR stock set for the Bandit !
I can't figure out how to add a pic......
I can't figure out how to add a pic......
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