Taipan Veteran Stock Rework

HI yes great improvement , I have same gun and I can see , you mean you are just saning and putting stains ? . so when you say 2 more sands you making it smoth and applying stains and re-sanding to get grains to stand out ? I never did this I spend my time getting accurate and smooth triggers and actions , I my self like synthetic as I m hard on my stuff and wood dings lol , but yours looks better then mine now I am jealous lol

Nicely done  

Looks great man great job 

wow thank you , this will be my new winter project strip all my wooden guns thanks a lot . Is this how stocks and furniture is made to show grains > ??? I

Yes you sure hit this on head The veteran was better then my FX guns modded to be honest .

I have found Taipan and , Edgun are very accurate need little , and do not break or throw o rings , just made well , build quality and everything square dead and straight so dead accurate , my .22 std shoots pellets past 160m lazer and with my slugs out past 250m , I only cleaned adjusted trigger to my liking and adjusted HST depending if i am shooting my pellets or JSB r any of my slugs

and BTW the Taipan can shoot up to 48 grain slugs with the magisine . the impact , cricket , or any other need to be single fed . this one is a winner all the way around . only tiny drawback is loud with out donnyfl on it . no big deal I threw one on it yes it weighs a lot but quiet and deadly .

Thanks for sharing your ideas with me







.

Great job. I love the look.

Olevey,

I'm still trying to work up the courage. 

Did you sand all the way down to unstained wood to begin with? 

I'd like to start with a clean slate but I'm concerned about how much stock I would have to remove to get to that point. The main ares that worry me are the thinnest parts of the inletting, at the four points where the scope tower comes up outa the stock. 

I've considered sanding lightly with 220 to just break through the factory finish and then trying to thin out the stain by rubbing with mineral spirits. I've never tried to lighten stained wood though and don't want to make it look worse than factory. I was even investigating wood bleaching products. 

Let me suggest another stock refinishing option which provides excellent results and with much less physical labor involved than sanding. It also preserves the dimensions of your stock so that you don't have the butt plate overlapping a sanded down stock. Instead of sanding use Citri Strip finish remover. Slather it on your stock and in 30 minutes scrape off 90% of the old finish with a spackle tool. Reapply and the remaining finish will come off easily with no loss of wood as in sanding. It is also very mild and not as caustic on your skin as most furniture strippers. It rinses off of the wood and tools with plain water and has no strong odor which is also nice. After the finish is completely removed it only requires a very light sanding to remove the raised grain in the wood. Use 400 grit sandpaper and a very light sanding for final wood preparation. 

Oil stains in a can only penetrates the wood evenly if it is a porous wood, and successive coats don't penetrate wood, just darken like paint with layers over existing stain. The best wood stains I've worked with aren't oil based stains but analine powder based dyes. These are concentrated powder dyes in many shades which only require a very small amount dissolved in simmering hot water. These dyes penetrate dense woods deeply and evenly whereas many oil based dyes will leave a splotchy finish because the wood doesn't allow it to penetrate evenly. Analine dyes are the types of dye used by Weihrauch to give dark, even finishes on beech wood which is notoriously difficult to stain.

After the wood is stained, you can get a great looking finish using Minwax Antique Furniture Restorer. It is like Truoil but easier to work with. It is brushed on liberally and then wiped off after 5 minutes while it is still tacky but not dry. It gives a soft luster and after several coats it looks as good and wears as well as any professional stock finish. It is also easy to apply to touch up scratches later on.

quote from Humdinger

"After the wood is stained, you can get a great looking finish using Minwax Antique Furniture Restorer. It is like Truoil but easier to work with. It is brushed on liberally and then wiped off after 5 minutes while it is still tacky but not dry. It gives a soft luster and after several coats it looks as good and wears as well as any professional stock finish. It is also easy to apply to touch up scratches later on."



I can second the Minwax Antique Oil Finish. I switched to it a couple years ago and that's what I did these stocks with. Really lets the grain show thru.





Btw, nice job on the stock

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Good to see you are enjoying my old Veteran...thing was a shooter, all Taipans are.

I'm really liking the CitriStrip suggestion. I've even got some from one of my wife's projects. 

Once I get the finish off with citristrip, will mineral spirits lighten up the stained wood underneath? Does mineral spirits work better on a stain than a dye? 

Good info. Thanks.

I used sanding sealer on my Marauder which was made out of beech wood which is very open grained and it will blotch easily. The sanding sealer will close all the pores and eliminate blotching which causes the darken areas around the grips and end grains. I coated the stock two coats and lights used 0000 steel wool, tack ragged the stock and applied an oil stain without issues.