Tuning TAIPAN ... Veteran No more hammer PING & Some other tuning tricks

Oh man, I just started to machine some .22 rimfire barrels for the Taipans. I wasn't sure if .224" ammo would fit and started weighing the options in my mine for making new mags vs. boring out the factory mags. 

I was VERY relieved that the ammo fit with a little room to spare! If I absolutely had to do it, I probably would have used the vertical mill with my rotary table, but that would have bern about as fun as re-aligning a Huben K1 magazine lol

First off Great post/customizing tips with pictures yaa.

I have a question/concern about adding length to the hammer with the addition of some peek material.

My question is for the peek insert with tip (on the end of the hammer that stikes the valve to help quiet down the ping) does this increasing of the OAL of the hammer now strike the valve harder to a detremental or stresss causing, not sure the right word for it how about, pre mature wear of the valve?

I ask as I noticed the hammer goes through a brass guide that also guides the cocking lever plus more? One more being, I wonder if it also stops the hammer at the same time the valve body does too.
By adding length to the hammer does this now all fall on the valve now? And is this not good, meaning, can the valve take that?

Not sure if the brass hammer guide, I will call it, does help stop the hammer but I do notice some circular wear there on the hammer so think it might be.

I am just wondering and speculating as I have limited knowledge of the mechanics and design of the taipan as I have only switched the lever, replaced regulator and pulled hammer out is all.

I added peek to my new long as after the first shot I stopped and instanly knew I had to do this mod as the ping was loud more so than my shorty. Its half as bad now which is a great improvement.
So thanks for those who contributed to this post.

1shooter said:

First off Great post/customizing tips with pictures yaa.

I have a question/concern about adding length to the hammer with the addition of some peek material.

My question is for the peek insert with tip (on the end of the hammer that stikes the valve to help quiet down the ping) does this increasing of the OAL of the hammer now strike the valve harder to a detremental or stresss causing, not sure the right word for it how about, pre mature wear of the valve?

I ask as I noticed the hammer goes through a brass guide that also guides the cocking lever plus more? One more being, I wonder if it also stops the hammer at the same time the valve body does too.
By adding length to the hammer does this now all fall on the valve now? And is this not good, meaning, can the valve take that?

Not sure if the brass hammer guide, I will call it, does help stop the hammer but I do notice some circular wear there on the hammer so think it might be.

I am just wondering and speculating as I have limited knowledge of the mechanics and design of the taipan as I have only switched the lever, replaced regulator and pulled hammer out is all.

I added peek to my new long as after the first shot I stopped and instanly knew I had to do this mod as the ping was loud more so than my shorty. Its half as bad now which is a great improvement.
So thanks for those who contributed to this post.

Click to expand...

The internal brass guide limits the overall hammer travel. I've made numerous valve bodies (many that resembled the general factory design and some that are completely different than the factory design taht I'll never share publicly). A design feature that I incorporated into all of them was a deeper recess of the sealing face that allowed me to increase valve pin/poppet travel (ideal for longer barrels and greater volumes of pressure exhaust).

I've made a bunch of tool steel hammers when i was doing things with the Taipans, but I found that the smaller recessed striker tip implementations tended to wear and deform much quicker in setups that had higher pressure and heavier spring energy. Didn't see any wear or deformation with the extruded tips, but I ultimately determined that you need maximal surface contat area between the PEEK material and the hammer to properly distribute that transfer of energy.

Ok, so it (brass hammer guide) indeed does limit travel that is good to know, thank you mtnGhost.

I will not worry about wear as I only shoot 20-30ftlbs but hope to someday send my own slugs as far as I can at a small target but that would be limited use and far from now.

Thanks for the picture and notes on the peek tips.
Keeping the hammer full length is good as I can fill in with peek for OEM length as I originally did but noticed the ping was just as loud so went back to machinist (poor guy, must hate seeing me come through door) and had him make me a tip that turned out equal to hammer diameter and just over 1/8” long. I’ve seen another peek hammer I crudely made flatten some so I’m sure I’ll feel it one day start to catch that brass guide/stop on cock backs stroke and have to sand down the edge to a cone type shape like the one in your picture. Something I forgot to mention to him before he made me mine plus a few extra. That back half of hammer is not as important so I could chuck it in hand drill and try and lightly sand peek tip sides.