SWFA 12X42 Mil-Quad Reticle

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RogerV53

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Mar 3, 2018
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I decided to go with a SWFA 12X42 Mil-Quad Reticle for my Walther LGV 12fpe springer. From what I've learned the 12 power clarity is better and eyebox isn't as touchy as the 16 power scope, I'd like more magnification but not at the cost of performance. For backyard plinking and some close range ground squirrel hunting this scope should cover all the bases. I decided not to go with a variable power scope and try a fixed power simply because for $300.00 most variable power scope I have tried loose clarity at the high end and are eyebox touchy. Thinking back over the decades airgun hunting squirrels I don't remember using less than 12 power, so one less thing to think about.

The only question I have is concerning the MOA-Quad, 1/4 MOA Clicks or the Mil-Quad, 1/10 MIL Clicks, options.
 
I copied this from Matt’s Facebook page. 

Many people ask me whether they should use MILs or MOA, and I ask what I prefer. Well let’s take a look at some examples:

1 MOA @ 100 Yards = 1.047197580733” (NOT 1”!)
1 MOA @ 100m = 2.908cm (or 1.144”)
1 MOA @ 1000 Yards = 10.47”
1 MOA @ 1000m = 29.08cm
1/4 MOA (1 “click”) @ 100y = 0.2618”
1/4 MOA @ 100m = 0.727cm

Now, MILS (MRAD):

1 MIL @ 100 yards = 0.1 Yards
1 MIL @ 100m = 0.1m (10cm)
1 MIL @ 1000 yards = 1 Yard
1 MIL @ 1000m = 1m
1/10 MIL (1 “click”) @ 100y = 0.01 Yards
1/10 MIL @ 100m = 0.01m (1cm)

The magic of Milliradians (MILS) is that they always span exactly a thousandth of the distance over which they are measured. So 1 MIL at a distance of 1000 ft will span exactly 1 foot, for example. There is a misconception that this is a Metric unit - It is not! It simply works well with the Metric system because we have a unit for 0.1m (1cm). The US simply does not have a unit for 0.1 Yards, so they chose to use MOA instead, and tell everyone that 1 MOA = 1” at 100 yards, even though it is NOT.

MILs can be used with ANY system of measurement, while MOA quite simply cannot, and in truth doesn’t even fit the Imperial system as well as most people believe. SMOA (Shooter’s MOA) is a different story, but no scope manufacturer clarifies whether they are using true MOA or SMOA, and so the end user lands up using the wrong unit half the time.

Rant over. Get with the programme. Use MILS;)
 
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"AirSupply"I copied this from Matt’s Facebook page. 
Many people ask me whether they should use MILs or MOA, and I ask what I prefer. Well let’s take a look at some examples:
1 MOA @ 100 Yards = 1.047197580733” (NOT 1”!)
1 MOA @ 100m = 2.908cm (or 1.144”)
1 MOA @ 1000 Yards = 10.47”
1 MOA @ 1000m = 29.08cm
1/4 MOA (1 “click”) @ 100y = 0.2618”
1/4 MOA @ 100m = 0.727cm
Now, MILS (MRAD):
1 MIL @ 100 yards = 0.1 Yards
1 MIL @ 100m = 0.1m (10cm)
1 MIL @ 1000 yards = 1 Yard
1 MIL @ 1000m = 1m
1/10 MIL (1 “click”) @ 100y = 0.01 Yards
1/10 MIL @ 100m = 0.01m (1cm)
The magic of Milliradians (MILS) is that they always span exactly a thousandth of the distance over which they are measured. So 1 MIL at a distance of 1000 ft will span exactly 1 foot, for example. There is a misconception that this is a Metric unit - It is not! It simply works well with the Metric system because we have a unit for 0.1m (1cm). The US simply does not have a unit for 0.1 Yards, so they chose to use MOA instead, and tell everyone that 1 MOA = 1” at 100 yards, even though it is NOT.
MILs can be used with ANY system of measurement, while MOA quite simply cannot, and in truth doesn’t even fit the Imperial system as well as most people believe. SMOA (Shooter’s MOA) is a different story, but no scope manufacturer clarifies whether they are using true MOA or SMOA, and so the end user lands up using the wrong unit half the time.
Rant over. Get with the programme. Use MILS;)
Click to expand...
Prime example why the metric system is superior haha.
 
Upvote 0
"AirSupply"I copied this from Matt’s Facebook page. 
Many people ask me whether they should use MILs or MOA, and I ask what I prefer. Well let’s take a look at some examples:
1 MOA @ 100 Yards = 1.047197580733” (NOT 1”!)
1 MOA @ 100m = 2.908cm (or 1.144”)
1 MOA @ 1000 Yards = 10.47”
1 MOA @ 1000m = 29.08cm
1/4 MOA (1 “click”) @ 100y = 0.2618”
1/4 MOA @ 100m = 0.727cm
Now, MILS (MRAD):
1 MIL @ 100 yards = 0.1 Yards
1 MIL @ 100m = 0.1m (10cm)
1 MIL @ 1000 yards = 1 Yard
1 MIL @ 1000m = 1m
1/10 MIL (1 “click”) @ 100y = 0.01 Yards
1/10 MIL @ 100m = 0.01m (1cm)
The magic of Milliradians (MILS) is that they always span exactly a thousandth of the distance over which they are measured. So 1 MIL at a distance of 1000 ft will span exactly 1 foot, for example. There is a misconception that this is a Metric unit - It is not! It simply works well with the Metric system because we have a unit for 0.1m (1cm). The US simply does not have a unit for 0.1 Yards, so they chose to use MOA instead, and tell everyone that 1 MOA = 1” at 100 yards, even though it is NOT.
MILs can be used with ANY system of measurement, while MOA quite simply cannot, and in truth doesn’t even fit the Imperial system as well as most people believe. SMOA (Shooter’s MOA) is a different story, but no scope manufacturer clarifies whether they are using true MOA or SMOA, and so the end user lands up using the wrong unit half the time.
Rant over. Get with the programme. Use MILS;)

I agree MILS for dialing up long shots using the turrets should be the gold standard. For a 12 fpe airgun shooting from 10 to 50 yards I would tend to use holdover. I would verify hash marks on the reticle shooting 10 to 50 yards 5 yard increments to get POA reference at a given range.
Click to expand...
 
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I’ve got to say, if you do your homework before shooting or hunting, does it really matter? Your range card will show holdover/under at all your distances you plan to shoot, whether MOA or MIL. I have both types of scope reticles and it doesn’t really matter to me. Especially using Strelok Pro, it shows your actual scope reticle at the magnification you have dialed up, be it MOA or MIL. Much more important is ensuring the reticle is correct and repeatable. My two cents...
 
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My opinion of the SWFA scopes? They are O.K. when it comes to clarity.
Has a really good reticle,
More than reasonable amount of holdover capability.
Built like a tank!
Turrets are not as crisp as I'd like.
For the price they are good.

But IMHO Not worthy to be on my Impact"X".

They Clarity just doesn't cut it for a $2k air rifle. 
The 12x will find a good home on my son's 10/22.
The 10x is doing a great job on my .22 P-rod carbine

It would be an excellent choice for a springer. It would take the recoil and ask for more!
It has a good place in my collection. 
But definately not a top shelf type of scope.
 
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"allan_wind"@toku58 2what is better?
.
.
.
Better??
It's good for what it is meant to be. "An almost indestructible scope. "
When out in the field in a battle situation the last thing you need is your scope to crap out.

My personal choice for a budget air rifle would probably be the Aztec Emerald. Can't go wrong with a hawke scope either.
And the Emerald might be a good choice for a higher end Air Rifle. Or Hawke Sidewinder scopes are an excellent choice. (I'm going with the FFP)

There are others that are great options. 
I don't claim to be a scope expert. (haven't tried enough different brands to make any such claim)
Just sharing my experience with the SWFA scopes.

When I'm looking for a scope:
-Reticle to me is the first thing I look for.
-Clarity is just as important
-Durability & warranty
-size
-Ergonomics
etc....


Good luck!

Click to expand...
 
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"toku58"My opinion of the SWFA scopes? They are O.K. when it comes to clarity.
Has a really good reticle,
More than reasonable amount of holdover capability.
Built like a tank!
Turrets are not as crisp as I'd like.
For the price they are good.
But IMHO Not worthy to be on my Impact"X".
They Clarity just doesn't cut it for a $2k air rifle. 
The 12x will find a good home on my son's 10/22.
The 10x is doing a great job on my .22 P-rod carbine
It would be an excellent choice for a springer. It would take the recoil and ask for more!
It has a good place in my collection. 
But definately not a top shelf type of scope.
Click to expand...
I appreciate your honesty, For my springer I'm hoping the clarity will be good enough but I'm a bit picky with scopes, $300.00 not a big gamble. The 12X are backordered now so I have time for more research.
 
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I agree with Centercut. Your range card will tell you where to hold. How many people use their scope to range? Shooting birds at a dairy doesn't give much time to range. My rangefinder is used alot and I know where to hold using my range card. It doesn't matter what kind of dots or lines are in the scope my range card shows where to hold. I have found I need to manipulate Chairgun to make it work for me but when I get to to agree it works.
 
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I have a SWFA SS Fixed 10X on my Daystate Huntsman Regal XL in .22 cal. After zeroing it at 50 yards, I confirmed each range in 5 yard increments all the way to 100 yards using my range finder. Once I found my holdover in MILS for each distance, I then used the turrets to confirm the holdover and it was accurate and repeatable. I recently shot a pigeon at 73 yards using the turrets. I clicked 2 MILS up instead of holding over and nailed it. I have this range card saved to my phone for the mean time. What I need to do is print out a card for my scope cap so it's always visible.

1526661236_16615440805aff0074c4ab47.81443634_SWFA Range Card.jpg
 
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