I was wondering if anyone has used a straw bale as a backstop? I have my AA 510s in .22 cal. and wondered just how good (or bad) straw bales would work as a backstop?
Alli In Lower Lake
Alli In Lower Lake
Straw hay bales for backstop?
- Thread starter AlliInLL
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Good question, Not sure how you can tape a target to it, LOL,
I my self would still want a 1/2 board in the back as a back up,
That's just me ,
Maybe someone has done it and we can hear from them.
Mike
I my self would still want a 1/2 board in the back as a back up,
That's just me ,
Maybe someone has done it and we can hear from them.
Mike
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Actually, Mike, I plan on having my targets in front of the bale. But trying to tape a target would be a challenge haha. My main concern was if a .22 pellet would go through a hay bale. Also, they would be out in the yard all year. Getting wet might present a problem, too.
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I think it sounds like a mess when you have to dispose of the wet & moldy hay remnants which will be full of lead. The best use for wet moldy hay is compost or mulch, but I'd hesitate to spread lead in my garden. Maybe try a plywood box full of rubber mulch and backed with a steel plate?
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Bales can work if tightly packed, if loose then they are little use. I have used them and used cut off coat hanger to push through target into straw bale to hold target tight. I was shooting at 100 yards though and did not see any blow through. If closer you might need a board in back to stop pelts.
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I tried using two straw bails at 50 yards with my .25 mrod. I was able to shoot through in one spot after twenty shots. I never tried the tightly bailed alfalfa because I didn't want to be stuck with four bails and spending twice the cost at something that might not work.
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Good idea John !!
Similar Pyramid Air concept (scroll to the end of article)
Above is a good read. Towards the end of the dissertation they describe the type of pellet trap I loosely copied. Their trap will even catch centerfire rounds as well as rimfire (theirs was larger than mine so exercise caution with a small'ish trap). Mine is mainly for pellets, and an occasional test fire of .22 rimfire.
What is needed?;
Bag of rubber mulch at Home Depot... Under $7
Ammo Can ( or plywood box as John mentioned)
Plastic cardboard (Coroplast) or similar membrane
Hole saw
Grinder with cut-off wheel
White Spray paint (optional)
Two magnets (optional)
Transparent laminating sheet (optional)
I'll let the pictures do the talkin;
Two I built based on their idea;
- Rubber mulch does not have to be packed down to tight.
- Paint the side of the can towards shooter with white paint for better "open-sight" sight picture
- I cut the can opening about 1/8" smaller than the targets shown (targets measure 14cm x 14cm) just to keep the sight picture from getting cluttered
- Put a strip of transparent laminating sheet from the left and right edge of the opening all the way out to the edge of the can (after it is painted white) to protect the paint from the 2 magnets that are centered on the vertical sides of the targets. That way you can drag the magnets off the edge of the can each time you change-out targets. (better than using your finger nails to pry the magnets off)
- *** Note the curved steel "contingency-plate" placed in the mulch filled can on the left. That's the one that may see use for an occasional rimfire test-fire.
- After about a thousand pellets (give or take) you can remove and mend the Coroplast with Gorilla brand duct tape, which actually makes it last much much longer. While you have it out a wood-framed piece of 1/4" hardware cloth sifter can separate the pellets, and the rubber mulch can be re-used
There may be better traps out there, but this one was fun and quick to build, and is dead QUIET !! (bonus)
This trap flat out works. Lead dust inside is now a thing of the past, since the pellets don't smash against steel.
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If you had one of the slightly bigger cans you could place the target on the end (rather than the side) and take advantage of much greater mulch depth end to end.
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I use a 16"x16" x24" deep card board box from Lowe's filled with rubber mulch. I have shot .177, .22, .25 and a .35 hatsan and at 15 yards nothing come through. I use duct tape to cover up the holes if they get to big. The only draw back to this is if the box gets wet, then you have to get a new box.
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Hey Bruce maybe a derelict Igloo or Coleman cooler would work well with a suitable hole cut in one side. Waterproof, could be left outside in the rain, leave the drain open and any rain that gets in could get out.
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I have a Rubbermaid storage tote that is about 12-15 gallon size. I have been using it for years. Filled with old jeans and welding jackets. I put a steel plate at the back just in case. I have even shot 200fpe big bore into it and they don't even make it half way in. I haven't emptied it in 3 years. It is now so heavy it is hard to lift. When I finally clean it all out, I will switch to rubber mulch.
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AJ that is perfect !!!
You catch that Alli ???
Finally an idea that doesn't get ruined in the rain, and requires no pre-cut hole in the side, since the Rubbermaid is easily shot into.
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Because my tote is rather deep, I actually shoot into the lid. I just keep putting layers of duct tape as the lid gets shot up. And, if the lid is ever too far gone, I can simply replace the lid.
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Wow, fellas, thanks for all the great thoughts and ideas! I hadn't thought of the lead being left inside the straw bales but thanks for pointing that out. I think I'll skip on that idea.
I think the metal, or rubbermaid box, filled with rubber mulch will be a better idea. I have a set of metal spinners, so when I hit those, the pellets won't be going into the box at all (only the misses!). I will need to set this up so that I can see just which pellets hit better accuracy-wise with paper targets.
Again, thank you all for the great replies.
I think the metal, or rubbermaid box, filled with rubber mulch will be a better idea. I have a set of metal spinners, so when I hit those, the pellets won't be going into the box at all (only the misses!). I will need to set this up so that I can see just which pellets hit better accuracy-wise with paper targets.
Again, thank you all for the great replies.
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Would a box filled with cloth on the outer sides and sand inside be a success? Putting enough cloth near the shooting end would stop the sand from escaping.
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Slayerious, I think I'm going to go with the idea of a big rubbermaid gob filled with rubber mulch. Maybe some old cloth inside, too. I'll still have to have walls and a big backstop, something like maybe railroad ties? I don't want pellets going past the targets and I'll have metal spinners so I don't want lead splatter to the sides, either.
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I was using a mix of Kevlar and fiberglass for a while. It worked quite well and the fiberglass did a good job of catching all the lead.
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Zebra, what kind of fiberglass? Like fiberglass insulation? Fill a box full of that and shoot into it? Any idea how deep it would be in order to work? And...where would one get kevlar?
Allison
Allison
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Pretty sure the Kevlar would be serendipitous and effective if on hand, but pricey to source.
The fiberglass on the other hand... self loathing comes to mind. Would hate to think about opening that tub or handling any maintenance after it (fiberglass) got pummeled by countless pellets.
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