Springer grease

Anyone ever tried using the Aeroshell 33ms Lithium/Moly synthetic grease in their Springers? It's a high quality, sliding surfaces grease. As greases go, it ranks up there with greases like Krytox.

I was thinking of trying it in my Pro Sport since I already have some. The Moly paste I have seems like it's too thick. May be too old. 
 
"outdoorman"Not the same as Krytox. I also only use Krytox as it has zero flash point and will not cause dieseling. Most all others will. The AeroShell 33ms has a flash point of 419F.
I just meant, as a grease, it's quality ranks up there with Krytox.

Krytox not having a flash point is probably what you meant to say, as that's not the same as having a zero flash point. A zero flash point is much worse than having a 419f of the 33MS.

Think I'll pick up some Krytox. Which GPL item number of Krytox are folks using?
 
"Trailryder42"
Krytox not having a flash point is probably what you meant to say, as that's not the same as having a zero flash point. A zero flash point is much worse than having a 419f of the 33MS.
Think I'll pick up some Krytox. Which GPL item number of Krytox are folks using?
Zero flash point is the correct terminology. I did not state, zero degree flashpoint. GPL-205 is what I use and I believe is what's most commonly used.
 
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TrailRyder42,

I use Krytox GPL-205 grease, and GPL-105 oil - and for me, they work superbly.

You can also mix the Krytox oil & grease with tungsten disulphide (WS2) or molybdenum disulphide (MoS2) powder, to add some boundary lube for areas of high pressure.

0.5 micron WS2 & MoS2 can be had from Microlubrol :

http://www.microlubrol.com/drylubricants.aspx

Ulltimox lubes are less expensive than Krytox, but are also PFPE , and also can be had from Microlubrol :

http://www.microlubrol.com/doorhatchandtoprubberseals.aspx

Brian10956 - use the Krytox lubes where their properties are needed, not for general purpose lubing. You will find a 2oz tube will last for quite a while :)

Have fun & a good Sunday :)

Best regards

Russ

 
The timing on this topic is perfect. I am restoring a Elgamo 300. When I first took possession of it, there were over 20 pellets stuck in the barrel. I have purchased a new piston seal and I will use the tuning instructions Charlie da Tuna has on his website. I found some high temperature CV joint grease with moly in it. However, I do not believe this will be a good choice after reading PhatMan's and outdoorman's comments.
 
I've used various Krytox grease and oil grades for several years for my HW95 & R9 and have settled on the "plain Jane" GPL105, GPL106 for the oil and GPL205 grease formulas as best for my applications.........
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The GPL225, GPL226 etc also contain an anti wear/anti corrosion additive, however I never had any corrosion issues with the plain GPL205 and a simple test over a few days proved what I suspected.

I took two degreased steel nails and coated one with Krytox GPL205 and left the other uncoated. Then I soaked a couple pieces of paper napkin soaked with a strong salt water solution and wrapped the nails with the wet napkin...........
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I let the nails "soak" for a couple days and after unwrapping this is the result........
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Since I don't normally soak my R9 or HW95 internals in strong saly water for a couple days I figured that the corrosion resistance of the "plain Jane" Krytox was adequate.

There is also an European alternative called Ultimox 226 which is based on Krytox GPL226 that's less expensive which I used for a while but I prefer the "Dupont offering".................
SdOdi8ll.jpg


Krytox is a good but pricey "space station lube" that won't diesel or dry out like "dinisaur oil based" molly bearing lubes and Krytox isn't "black staining". Also, very little Krytox grease is needed to "keep things slippery"........
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As a side note, Krytox GPL205 isn't thick enough to "kill spring twang" like slopping on "spring tar goop", but it also doesn't cause a springer to become temperature sensitive like "excessively thick "tar". I mentioned that petroleum based molly bearing "tar" also gets thick with age due the out-gassing of the petroleum carriers. Here is an example of my small tub of "heavy tar" that got so thick with age (even when stored in a sealed container) that it would support a socket head cap screw with a few threads embedded about 1/2 of the screw diameter..........
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I use Krytox. I really don't think it costs much more. The price quoted above, $40 for 2 ounces, is probably about right. What everyone needs to realize is you can lube a bunch of rifles with 2 ounces so the cost per rifle is pretty low. You also don't have to buy a 2 once tube. You can buy it in smaller quantities. I also use tar and moly from ARH on some rifles because I have it on hand. If it is a rifle I just plan to pull out and plink with now and again tar and moly is fine. If I am helping someone out with a junk rifle tar and moly is fine (and an upgrade). My main rifles for FT I use Krytox.