Sportsmatch rings arrester pin backing out on my HW50

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This is the third time the arrested pin has backed out and my scope has moved. The gun is new and I have about 800 pellets through it so far. I measured the pin at 4.2mm which is the drill size for a 5mm tap. Would it work to hold the arrested pin in with a set screw and blue locktite?
 
Never had that happen-a few questions:

Did the pin actually back out (up) into the mount or did it jump the stop hole allowing the mount and scope to slide? I have used them on my R9 with good success.

Did you drive the stop pin down far enough into the stop hole for it to hold well? I have found that making sure the pin protrudes far enough down, then sliding the mount rearward till it stops against the edge of the stop hole works well.

If the pin is backing out and up PM me and I'll send you a spare threaded stop pin from one of my UTG mounts-you can thread the stop pin hole and that should fix it.
 
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The gun came with the scope mounted and I figured it was not installed properly the first time. The second time and third time I drove the pin to the bottom of the hole and slid the mount to the rear of the stop hole. This last time I noticed my groups moving and seen daylight under the scope mount between the stop pin and receiver. The pin is moving up. The pin can be pushed in and out with “medium effort” it don’t need to be driven with a hammer and punch. 
 
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I have another set of sportsmatch rings on another gun and the stop pin took quite a bit more effort to drive down. The hole either got reamed a little large or the pin is small. I work in a tool shop so I’m gonna gauge the hole and make a proper sized pin. I should have thought of that sooner. Trouble shooting is not my strong suite. 
 
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Never had it happen and I have a bunch of Sportsmatch rings.

The arrestor pins in Sportsmatch rings are actually sheet metal rolled into a pin. The pins may or may not have memory....in other words, they may or may not try to unroll once installed in the ring to ensure a continued tight fit. Regardless, yours should not move up and down with only moderate effort.

I've fashioned arrestor pins in scope rings using split, or slotted steel pins from ACE Hardware. They are in the nuts and bolts isle, usually in one of those yellow plastic boxes with the lid that stack in the cabinets. They are hollow with a few thousandths wide longitudinal slot in them. The slot allows them to be squeezed into a hole slightly smaller in diameter than the pin and the memory in the steel will cause the pin to try to return to its original diameter, holding it very tightly inside a properly sized hole.

If you drive any kind of pin into the hole in your ring do not make the mistake I made by taking the top half of the ring off, turning the bottom half upside down on a hard surface and hammering the pin in from the bottom. You will spread the ring. Best bet is to lay a wood dowel or broom handle on your hard surface then turn the bottom half of the ring upside down and lay it over the round piece of wood and then lightly hammer the pin into the hole.

Another solution would be to drill and tap the existing arrestor pin hole to the appropriate diameter to accommodate an allen head screw in lieu of the rolled steel pin and secure it with locktite. Another ring maker uses threaded arrestors pins and I like them. 

Good luck.

ChrisK


 
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2 things you can do, as stated thread the hole and install a grub, set, screw or you can find a drill bit that is larger then the hole and make a new pin that will not vibrate out

you can find drill bit in metric in all sorts of odd sizes but say you buy a 2.8mm drill bit it will be 2.74+ or - so get it a bit larger and they can be turned down in size with sandpaper and a drill

you can use a dog point set screw and that would be my choice just find one with the right size point

https://www.google.com/search?safe=off&rlz=1T4GUEA_enUS644US645&ei=LuE7Xso9qtHQ8Q-H0aj4BQ&q=dog+point+set+screw&oq=dog+ear+set+screw&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0i71l8.0.0..7941...0.2..0.0.0.......0......gws-wiz.9Lv6b-XGhzA#spf=1580982580244
 
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Thanks for all the advice. I was able to tap the existing hole 10-32 and I ground down the tips of set a few set screws to fit in the stop pin holes. I did pin gauge the hole it was .166 the same size as the stop pin. The stop pin was out of round also which I don’t think matters as long as it’s bigger than the hole by a few thousandths of an inch. And the best part we had all the materials here at work and it cost me zero dollars. 

 
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It looks like you may have resolved your stop pin issue.

But, I thought I'd say this: I've had sports match 1 piece scope mounts on my hw50s (and even my diana 48!) with no movement issues ever, and thats WITHOUT using the stop pin. 

Could it be that your dove tail was not clean of all oils/lubes? and/or could it be that the allen screws were not tight enough? do you have a torque wrench? 

movement scares me, not only for bad accuracy but 'cus it can mar the top of the compression tube. 


 
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These are two piece mounts with one screw at the dovetail. I did not degrease the dovetails before installment but I will from here on out. Thanks for the tip. I torqued them to the max inch pounds listed on the sportsmatch packaging. The second time I went past the recommended torque because the sportsmatch package said more may be necessary for certain applications. This last time I went back to recommended torque because the gun was making noise during cocking with the rings over tightened.


The sportsmatch pin appears to function in a similar way as a roll pin and the pin needs to be bigger than the hole for it to work properly. With my set of rings the hole is .166” and the pin is the same at .166”. That would work fine if it was captured. I can push this pin in with my thumb. My other sportsmatch rings I needed a hammer and punch to move the pin. Where I work we use roll pins we drill 1/64” undersized and they don’t come out of die cast machines. 1300 degrees Fahrenheit and 600 tons of pressure going in and out all day long. 
 
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It looks like you may have resolved your stop pin issue.

But, I thought I'd say this: I've had sports match 1 piece scope mounts on my hw50s (and even my diana 48!) with no movement issues ever, and thats WITHOUT using the stop pin. 

Could it be that your dove tail was not clean of all oils/lubes? and/or could it be that the allen screws were not tight enough? do you have a torque wrench? 

movement scares me, not only for bad accuracy but 'cus it can mar the top of the compression tube. 

Click to expand...

Same here but with 2 piece rings-I don't have any 1 piece mounts. No movement on my guns and I usually don't use the stop pin.
 
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You know what, I've never actually used 2 piece mounts on a spring gun. From the get go, I read a couple things that lead me to only trust one piece mounts(specifically the high end sportsmatch ones). something about 2 piece mounts not aligning with one another, which can torque the scope in a bad way? I think that was a warning I read, yikes. And also, the one piece mounts held better, which they have proven to do, for me. 

so, if all else fails, you can try the 1 piece mount. "set it and forget it" is always nice. 
 
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Good advice. I may try the one piece. This a Weihrach HW50 Hunter and It came with a weihrauch scope installed so I’m not really out anything if I ditch the rings for something more robust which I would prefer anyway. One of the rings was installed with the 3/8 clamp and one with the 11mm. I’m sure that didn’t help or may have been the problem. I can keep the rings for a rimfire or something else down the road. The recoil for the HW50 is noticeably less than my Hw97 and Walther terrus so it was a head scratcher for me. 


Thank you for everyone’s advice I really appreciate it. This website is a wonderful thing with tons of great people. 
 
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You know what, I've never actually used 2 piece mounts on a spring gun. From the get go, I read a couple things that lead me to only trust one piece mounts(specifically the high end sportsmatch ones). something about 2 piece mounts not aligning with one another, which can torque the scope in a bad way? I think that was a warning I read, yikes. And also, the one piece mounts held better, which they have proven to do, for me. 

so, if all else fails, you can try the 1 piece mount. "set it and forget it" is always nice.
Click to expand...

As noted, I've used "two piece" mounts on a Diana 460 with no movement. A "magnum" springer so decide for yourself. I also have two piece mounts on a Hatsan 125 with even more recoil that also work fine. You may have different results but such has worked well for me. With the concerns you note, I would assume you would never shim a mount or scope to correct alignment?
 
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