Some Yong Heng numbers

Forums Air Tanks, Pumps, Compressors, & Filters Some Yong Heng numbers

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    bandg
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    I recently removed the valve from my Great White (97 cf) tank to check for moisture after topping it off for about a year with the Yong Heng using one cotton filter and a Diablo Dry Air filter.  NO moisture in the tank, for those that might be interested.

    Filled the tank from empty today (about 75 degrees in the shop) using only the Yong Heng with my standard setup- a tool box (holds roughly 2 gallons) filled with ice/water that is regularly replenished and an external ducted fan blowing laterally on the cylinders.

    Zero-1000 took 10 minutes, temp at 41C.

    1000-2000 took 11 minutes, temp at 41C.

    2000-2500 took 6 minutes, temp held at 42C.

    2500-3000 took 6 minutes, temp stayed at 42C.

    3000-3500 took about 6.5 minutes, temp still 43C.

    3500-4000 took 7 minutes, temp 43C.

    4000-4400 took just over 7 minutes, temp still 43C. 

    So just under an hour to completely fill (to indicated 4400 on tank gauge) a large CF tank from empty.  Some air certainly lost at a couple of the ventings.  When I turned off the external fan the temperature would rise relatively quickly to 60C but turning the fan on would lower it almost as quickly back to the mid/low 40C range.  The external fan helps A LOT.  Relatively linear fill rate from empty to 4400.

    Yes, they can be a little inconvenient as far as adding ice and handling the external "add-ons" needed to cool and produce relatively dry air.  But they are also inexpensive and in many cases they are all that is needed.  

    Happy shooting and stay healthy.

     

    • This topic was modified 1 week ago by bandg.
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    Bigragu
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    Good post, and thanks for info that’ll help others shopping for a compressor.

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    ImpactX
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    I also have a Yong heng. Idk why many people who never used one always say it's cheap Chinese junk. It gets the job done at a affordable price. What's not to love about it. If it ever gets broke. You're only down $200-300. And parts are cheap and easy fix. Idk people who spend thousands will defend their compressor saying it is breathable dry air. But this is pcp, not suba diving. So dont need 3-4k on a breathable compressor when a $200-300 compressor can do the same job. Fills your guns and tanks.

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    harrymoreland
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    "ducted fan blowing laterally on the cylinders." Hello BangG by "cylinders" you mean?.

    thanks for the info.

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    DirtyDovi
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    Good deal  &  Great thread! 
    You did so much better than I did when it came to recording the fill data!  Nicely done! 

    When I initially got my YH compressor,  the intent was to fill & keep topping off an 88cf CF tank.. 
    That's exactly what I did,  and I continue to do so – Flawlessly.

    These were the initial #s from last year filling the tank from zero to 300 bar.  Try not to laugh: 

    After 6 months,  and again after 1 year, 
    I ran the tank down to zero psi,  disassembled,  and inspected the interior..
    Both times I got the same results:  A bit of an interesting odor but no oil or moisture.  

    I still find that hard to believe,  since I'm still only using the crappy OEM oil/water filter! 
    [I have a nice large desiccant style filtration setup – still brand now – just sitting here]
    I've moved two times,  so never got the chance [or want] to sit down and install it all.
    *Knocks On Wood* for such good luck with it all so far.  

    Anyways,  I also used the YH to fill 2 other large metal SCBA tanks [for someone else]
    and I acquired a large metal SCBA tank that I've completely filled and been topping off..
    Lastly,  it's been used to fill smaller metal and carbon fiber tanks – used on bottle-guns.

    In the year + that the YH has been in use  –  The following is all that I've done: 
    I initially filled the block with Royal Purple 100% Synthetic Compressor Lubrication 
    Then I inspected and replaced the crappy cotton cartridge filters.  [maybe 5 so far]
    Since the initial oil-fill,  I have only needed to give the comp ONE coil change.
    When doing so,  I used a coffee strainer and inspected the old oil for metal particulates.. 
    Barely any,  and those that were in there were tiny and IMO insignificant. 

    I have two brand new rifles sitting here that both have issues right outa' the box.. 
    Air leaking from full to empty  and non responsive reg and/or reg gauge problems.
    Needless to say,  I've wasted a ridiculous amount of air trying to get them figured out and fixed.. 
    So much air that I dropped the PSI on my 88cf CF tank down to like 170ish bar.. 
    So – It was time for another serious top up.  Roughly under 2k psi  back up to 300bar.
    I ran the comp for just under 23 minutes to achieve that. 
    10 min in,  I purged for oil/water,  and at the end roughly 20ish min in,  I purged again..
    The first purge yielded a tiny mist of moisture.  The second purge didn't show signs of anything.

    I took a crappy phone vid clip of the last 2 minutes of that process 
    [to show someone how the YH's manual set / auto shut off system works]
    Details are in the description but in short.. 
    72*F in the house  and the hottest the YH temp rose to was just over 130*F  [That's like 55* C]

    My thoughts as of right now..  These YH comps are killer – cost to functionality/performance
    and as stated over and over again my myself and others..  They're only a few hundred bucks.

    Going the YH route compared to getting the 'high end comp' that I was initially looking at 
    has literally saved me right around $1,500.00
    A year+ later,  I still have endless air,  and that 'saved money' just paid for an FX Dream Tac Compact!

    👍👍

    Sam –

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    Hoople
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    Good post. My YH has been going strong for 2+ years. I only direct fill to my 5 PCPs. All 5 are regulated 4 I have had apart several times for reg adjustment, never a hint of moisture. Also I installed a power plenum on my 3 month old Dreamlite last week no moisture there either. I think the key to dry air on the YH is to purge often.  Well designed condensation towers, which the YH has, removes 99.3 of water (and oil) from the air. Filters any filter is designed to remove only minute amounts of the remaining water. See Link. Edit dirtydovi I didn't see your post before I posted, good stuf.

    I agree completely with ImpactX why not own one, or two for that matter? And yes "cylinders" is correct. https://www.scubaengineer.com/high_pressure_compressor_filtrat.htm

    • This reply was modified 1 week ago by Hoople.
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    biohazardman
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    Most of us that have the YH compressors have had pretty good luck with them.  Although I am at 50/50 my second one lasted less than three hours of run time before the second stage piston werqed loose and destroyed itself banging on the head.  No locktight from the factory!  Bad factory werqers evil.  The new piston was $12 and easy to install but had to be shaved a couple of thousandths as it hit on the head from the very beginning.  Bad factory werqers evil!  So these things aren't perfect.  But YH #2 has run great from that point on and tops off my tanks and fills my guns quite quickly.  I have two years and over 20 hours of run time on YH #1 it has blown a couple of o-rings and that's it even though I treated it poorly and overheated it severely several times. Now it is just sits there quietly waiting to be put back in service.

    You are purging the water just often enough to keep it out of the system.  I put on a gold three stage filter after the tiny YH filter and because I purge the compressor and change the YH filter regularly like you I have not had to change the large filter.

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    bandg
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    harrymoreland

    "ducted fan blowing laterally on the cylinders." Hello BangG by "cylinders" you mean?.

    thanks for the info.

    Thanks, Sam.  Your numbers look great.

    The first and second stage cylinders on the YH-the black and silver parts with the SS lines.  The second stage cylinder/head and lines get VERY hot and a good strong air flow (which the stock fan does not supply) really lowers the temperature.  I like the fan blowing from the side simply because it flows across those parts and then away from the unit.  My fan is a Stanley model with rotating housing that allows the output duct to be rotated for position and provides a relatively narrow flow that can be aimed directly at that hottest area.

    • This reply was modified 1 week ago by bandg.
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