So, if you had access to a 3D printer, what would you print (airgun related)

Magazines for my Career 707. I have been shooting it in the local Steel Challenge matches, but I only have two magazines.

All you need is ONE and a spare if that one breaks. Cumbersome to keep loaded mags rubber banded to hold them pellets from coming out?

Make a speedloader no 3d printer necessary. 

Find rigid plastic or metal tubing that's a perfect fit the pellets can easily slide into. 

Measure the length perfectly in relation to how many pellets fit in your magazine and cut many tubes just a hair longer than that length.

Cut a round wooden dowel 1/2 inch or larger broken broomstick or mop will do or buy from crafts store or lumber yard you only need a piece equal length to your cut straws.

Glue all of the straws (epoxy is best) around the round dowel make enough of those straw tubes to completely cover the circumference. 

Cut 2 round rigid (not too thin) plastic covers (clear is ideal but anything is ok) the outer size of the finished project. Mayonnaise or Instant tea screw on covers are ok or craft store has clear hobby items. Use a proper sized hole saw if available or manually cut and file it rounder.

Drill the center of both covers Use a wood screw in one side tight into middle of speedloader. Other cover do the same.

Unscrew one side and cut a notch to match your square part of the magazine the part you put the pellets in backwards copy that design exactly cut it perfect.

Load of that tubes with pellets nose first. Assemble that modified cover and make it a little loose so it rotates with a little effort. Place empty magazine with follower completely retracted speedloader facing up place the magazine on top of that open speedloader chamber then press it and flip both over while connected. If it's not loaded smoothly return that cover a little so everything's perfect with all chambers. 

Keep it in your pocket ready to speedload that magazine.

Another way is just to drill the perimeter of a fat diameter wooden or delrin solid plastic dowel and make your top and bottom covers as described. Wood may expand and have undesirable moisture effect so drill the holes larger than normal and be sure the drill bit is real sharp to avoid pellets getting hung up specifically against wood.


 
@ Odoyle Thanks for the info on making new magazines. I have tried making speed loaders from drinking straws, but they were too fiddly for my fumble fingers.

Steel Challenge is an opportunity for me to shoot my 707 in competition after years of setting it aside for airguns that are better suited to other sports. The local guys are open to letting airguns shoot, but it falls to me to not slow the pace of the match. I get inline with high cap 9mms and pistol caliber carbines, so 5 magazines for the 5 repetitions of the 5 shot COF are best. I can hold my own, against about 1/4 of the shooters, but I haven't caught up with my buddy who shoots a Marauder.

Thanks , I want a way to get new magazines.

Ron
 
Interesting responses. I can see gaining some proficiency in CAD is a must!

Failed prints - at first I didn't think I'd ever get a working print. Turns out the filament provided with the printer to get you started was horrible. My son gave me a spool of better quality stuff and since then, as long as the bed is level, most things turn out. Still learning and not all.

I need to start with simple stuff, so something like designing a nipple cover might be a good start. Magazines are a tad more complex, though some designs are online already.

I've printed a baffle for my Impact though I think it will need some work to make it work and fit. It looks interesting though.

Speed loaders for the high capacity magazines would also be a good start. Look relatively simple, but will need to learn design before I get it right.

Picatinny rails I think they'll work as long as attached directly to the stock. Won't work on an Impact, but would probably work on a WildCat or any other gun where the rail is screwed directly to the stock. This stuff is strong, but not that strong.

Printer is a Creality Ender 3 V2. Not lowest end, but close enough. Had some of whistles and bells so I didn't have to print 50 extra parts before it was really functional. Long way to go to figure this thing out, and thanks for the responses.

As for a larger printer - YouTube has a channel where the author builds printers with 3 foot square print beds and prints a couple feet high. It can be done, but I'm not there yet!

Have fun all, and I'll keep looking for projects.
 
AFTER you get dialed in with PLA, start playing with PETG. It needs a layer of hairspray on the bed to act as a bond breaker, (I've taken chunks of glass out with my prints before i learned that trick). PETG does not fail along the layer lines, and will withstand a little higher ambient heat. It's almost as easy to print as PLA and no nasty offgasses...
 
A nipple for my marauder pistol that's a little looser. Mine sticks like glue. Maybe even a twist-off would be better.

A cradle for an FX chrono. (not that I have one yet)

Lens cap(s) for my PARD scope.

A cheek riser for my stock marauder pistol.

A container or set of clips to easily hold multiple magazines inside the pistol's hollow carbine frame.

For a bigger challenge, some very simple bipods. I like the Javelin idea that got written up over at Hard Air Magazine.

And, of course, a cup holder.
 
I have 4 printers....

Picatinny rails

a bipod attachemnt for my AEA Varmint .25

a bipod attachment for my SkyHAwk (why oh why wasnt one on therr from from the facoty????)

a barrel mounted “scout mount” for one of my break barrels

2400 carbine stock

custom shoulder stock for P17

butt pads of all kinds

custom LDCs

custom internals for exisitng LDC

side focus wheels for every scope I have

bubble levels for scopes

working on a target buttstock assembly to replace the AR version on the Varmint