Kits have 48 screws now, that cover 99% of the screws, doesn’t cover the trigger screws!
https://www.instagram.com/p/B5fm9eaBUKG/?igshid=s5r5jhbwpv98
https://www.instagram.com/p/B5fm9eaBUKG/?igshid=s5r5jhbwpv98
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slow leak solved. Will anything rust?
- Thread starter Powerbroker
- Start date
Has this ever happened to any properly functioning airgun? ("Diesel Detonation")
Dieseling happens due to sudden increase of pressure. (Like in a combustion chamber) Not the sudden release of pressure.(Like in an air rifle)
I can't see this happening in an air gun under normal use. (Maybe I'm missing something)
Heat is generated due to the increase of pressure. Like when filling your gun. But in-order for it to combust it would need to be almost instantaneous pressure increase when filling.
The firing of the gun is a sudden pressure release/decrease, which would be the opposite of what is needed to combust.
I have never heard of "Diesel Detonation" happening due to a sudden drop of pressure.
Because if this was possible? The oil in the diesel motor would be a huge risk. But "Diesel Detonation" only happens in the combustion chamber.
I'm just curious because I always hear people say not to use petroleum based lubricants.
Is their any real data on this phenomenon actually happening??
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I am not a chemist or a rocket scientist but you raise a Good point. This is when you fire the gun, decrease in pressure will happen. The sudden Filling the plenum at 150 bar after firing will Increase the pressure instantly. This is where the combustion may occur? I don’t know.
by the way, the gauge had brown spots after the shampoo and water leak test. I am pretty sure I sprayed it with contact cleaner and silicon lube after the leak test to get rid of any water spots. So, avoid the water-shampoo test. From this day on, i will watch that area for any rust.
Update: the o ring that came with the huma gauge is holding pretty well. I applied royal blue oil to the o ring though.
what i noticed is the delrin ring is too hard to make it fit and seal at the bottom. If you will force it, it could damage what Ernest was explaining.
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Point taken. I have never heard of it happening either. I just accepted the advice of others in this and the diving industry. I do however recommend silicone or lithium over petroleum/vegetable-based lubes for use with most of the O-ring types that we use because of the preservative and conditioning advantages. Perhaps somebody with some relevant data can pipe in.
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The original seal is teflon. If there is any damage to the rear block you will feel the aluminum raised up inside the valve housing area and you would have trouble removing the valve housing with aluminum protruding into it's bore.
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I prefer silicone grease. You shouldn't get lithium on your skin or you may lose the ability for your soldier to stand at attention.
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Heavy, unfortunately for me, it raised a bit. The valve gets stuck when I pulled it. But with a little patience, it went out and in.
This is a bummer. Can i ask for replacement under warranty? For now it works fine but up to when? I will take a picture after my travel. I will take the impact with me for pest control at the ranch. I live in the city.
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By the way, removing the damaged teflon is tricky. It took surgical tools from my surgeon wife’s scrap tools to safely pull the teflon.
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Sure you can ask but if they don't help just reach in there with a fine grit sanding drum on a rotary tool to knock down the bump. You can polish the whole interior of that bore with 3M pink polishing paper if you have it. It's good for removing sharp edges without removing appreciable metal. I won't even remove the anodizing unless you try really hard. https://www.amazon.com/Wetordry-Polishing-Microfinishing-Flexible-Backing/dp/B07X56G951/
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I only mentioned lithium grease because the dive guys like it for its waterproof properties. I've packed plenty of boat trailer bearings with it by hand. Maybe that's what's wrong with Mr Wobbley.
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I live in the uk so the one I use may not be available or have a different name.
they are all pretty much the same but I would recommend the type in an aerosol with a thin tube applicator, this allows you to spray exactly where you want, particularly helpful on an impact with all its little nooks and crannies.
As a last resort I have dropped the entire action into a bath of distilled water to fined a particularly elusive leak, while this may seem drastic, so long as you thoroughly dry and oil afterwards, it is much less likely to cause rust/corrosion than a soap solution that contains salt.
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something like this
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Yep, soap solution is very searching, it readily seeps around threads, making it difficult to dry. For the cost of a can of proper leak detection spray, it really isn’t worth the risk using soap. Drilling out a rusty screw from a block is a Royal pain in the aris
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