Side Shot with Backbone vs Eagle vision (hero 7) with upgraded lens

I am getting a scope cam, but want the best for a nightforce 34mm ATACR 7-35 scope.

First question would be who makes a better lens, the one used in the backbone or the one you modify the hero 7 with from eagle vision.

I understand it is less expensive to modify a hero 7 than buy the backbone hero 7, I am more interested in which one will have the possibly to be 

the clearest picture. I am truly amazed by the videos done by "airgunmafia". I have message him several times about his equipment with no response

about his setup and what lens he uses. I know he uses the side shot with go pro, but not sure weather it is a hero 7 with eagle vision lens or the backbone.

His slow motion is so good, I did not know you could do that with a go pro at 240 fps, it looks more like 1000 fps from a sony mark 4 or 5. Thanks for any input.
 
The 12mm on the Blackbone H7 is pretty good. The manual focus lens is a pain to setup, but I focussed mine to be most dialed in with my 7-35, which works well even in low light conditions. Check the video I shot with the R5 .30 (anything using the Tremor3 was with that camera+lens) in the Sideshot https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCoz-thFAGdTCAPYO1bW2XmA/videos
 
If you haven't seen it yet, here is a video comparison I did with my EagleVision/GoPro HERO7 setup: 

Eagle Vision Go-Pro Side-Cam w/HERO7 - Focus and Image Settings Tests - Airgun Nation

It's not an ATACR, but still a great NightForce scope with well above average glass. I've said it many times... when it comes to these scope cams, "light is king" when you're talking image quality. The more light that makes it to the sensor, the better subjective video quality you can produce. All else being equal, this is controlled by the reflex beam-splitter reflective properties and the aperture of the lens on the camera. This is incredibly important if you intend to use 240 fps for slo-mo recording.

I think many people overlook subject lighting conditions as well. Most of the outstanding video that hooked a lot of us was shot in bright, direct, full-sunlight in the South African countryside. Those conditions will almost always give you far more perceived sharpness in your video than the exact same subject area shot on an overcast day, even if you can get the same level of exposure. Diffusing cloud cover does to sunlight what a photo studio "soft box" does to a studio light... if scatters and diffuses the light source such that you have a less sharp/harsh appearance in your image. They call them "Soft" boxes for a reason.

To me, the three most important elements to consider are:

1) The scope producing the image.

2) The beam-splitter refracting a percentage of the image to the camera.

3) The lens focusing the image on the sensor.

You have an ATACR... you're done with #1. I went with the EagleVision to get more light to the camera with the 25%/75% beam-splitter. Then I chose the largest aperture replacement lens to again, let more light through to the sensor.