Side focus adjustment question

I don't look at the marks on the focus knob. Just look at your target through the scope and turn the focus knob until you have the sharpest most in focus view. When you shoot at a different yardage, do it again. It becomes quick and intuitive after you get used to doing it.

Stoti

I’ve learned to adjust side parallax til the focus looks good, then I move my head around while slowly adjusting the parallax up and down til the reticle no longer moves off of the POI. Then you will be parallax free. Sometimes the best focus point isn’t the best parallax point.

Dear Bird Person...

I generally ignore those numbers on the side wheel if I know my distance to target and focus is sharp. Once the objective lens is properly focused for your shooting eye, that side wheel helps me to fine focus the target and crosshairs at extremely close ranges. Further, if I need to use mil-dot holdover, I can glance at the sidewheel and get a general idea of the range to target. In that regard it is sometimes very handy!

I tend to set it on the most common distance I'm shooting that day and only adjust if necessary.

The side wheel is a much easier method to fine tune the image, over having to reach out to the end of the scope to adjust parallax.

Accuracy/POI, for me, has never been an issue in this regard.

As always, other forum member's mileage may vary...it usually does



Kindly 'Ol Uncle Hoot

PigeonMan,

I don't ever pay any attention to the marks on any sidewheel for parallax adjustment. The easiest thing to do is put a white tape over the edge of the sidewheel. Then, the yardage that you want, let's say from 10 -55 yards, you calibrate it true. Meaning, you put a Target at 10, 15, 20, 25.....all the way out to 55, or whatever your farthest shooting distance will be. You focus at 10, draw a line, mark it 10. Go to every yard out to your max distance, and do the same thing. I use electricians wire markers for my numbers. Now, your sidewheel is calibrated to you, your eyes, and your distances. You can then, put that scope on any gun you want, the calibration will always be the same. 

Hope this helps,

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 

I ignore the markings and really ignore focus also . My primary goal with side focus or front is to get the reticle and image on the same focal plane " parallax free" . It's the only way to shoot the tightest groups the gun is capable of . And if the focus is off just a hair you can sometimes tweek the image with the eye focus . But any adjustments made to the scope I always double check for parallax. I'm not a very good shot so I need all the help I can get. Lol

I did manage to shoot this 5 shot group at 100 yards today with my .223 though . Even a blind hog ....

I ignore the markings and really ignore focus also . My primary goal with side focus or front is to get the reticle and image on the same focal plane " parallax free" . It's the only way to shoot the tightest groups the gun is capable of . And if the focus is off just a hair you can sometimes tweek the image with the eye focus . But any adjustments made to the scope I always double check for parallax. I'm not a very good shot so I need all the help I can get. Lol

I did manage to shoot this 5 shot group at 100 yards today with my .223 though . Even a blind hog ....

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So you really can shoot, can't ya'. 

No amount of modesty will detract from that great group!

I really learn so much about shooting for accuracy from reading your posts. Thanks for your comments.

Joe,

You are a piece of work........ I LOVE ya!!!!! I hope you are at one of the larger Field Target shoots, or other events I'll be able to get to, love to meet you in person....

Peace, shoot straight 

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 

PigeonMan, you didn't mention the power range of your scope. If you can see clearly at 20 yards with the parallax adjustment set on 100, then the scope must be either very low power, or, there may be an issue with your vision. The parallax is very much out of adjustment in that condition. As others have said, the markings on the side wheel offer only a general indication of distance, just use it as intended, bring the target into clear focus. Then you will know that you are seeing the cross hair and the target on the same plane, removing the parallax error. 

Your missing out. On your sfp scope add a large side wheel and range find! Bump up to a 45x or such and you can survey your lot. Just like to old 35mm camera, when in focus you know the range.

Tried to find a clear marked sidewheel pic:



In squirrel hunting this allows you to go from head shot's to 1/4" behind the 3rd eyelash , or maybe hit a KZ on whatever.



John

Even a blind hog ....

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That's an awful tasty acorn ya found there, Joe!

If there is an out of focus condition there is parallax. If there is parallex there is image displacement. POI is affected. POI may be minimal enough one may not notice. For target shooting I focus. For pesting I focus at about 50 yards, if time refocus for a shot. But when a squirrel pops up at 10 yards there is no time so hold over and hold on a blurry head.

spysir thats an awsome wheel set up any chance where you get that wheel

spysir thats an awsome wheel set up any chance where you get that wheel

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I can find them online at most places that carry such things. About $15 for the UTG models.