She's a real Daisy

Here are the results from the rebuild.
Shooting 559fps with the old springs. Its a little slow but still within specs and the accuracy is right on par with my universal.
I didn't show any steps in the rebuild; Joe Rhea has all that covered. The next step will be a stock refinish using Royal London Oil from ARH. Maybe it will enhance some of that fiddleback. It is bound to look better than it does now.

Sorry bouddha, It is hard to buy anything off that auction site, prices usually are crazy high.

 
Update:
Started the stock restoration. Here are a few pics of the progress.

Stripping process. Looks like a Urethane finish.



First coat of stripper gets most of it off without using the steel wool yet.




Rinse off with garden hose.


Second coat of stripper.


Stock has nice warm colors.


Scraping off the tough spots with a semi-dull razor.


Jiffy steamer used to raise the grain then de-whiskered using red scotch brite



Larger dings and mars steamed out with iron.


Stock is ready for a little sanding.

 
  • Like
Reactions: JoeWayneRhea
It is a work in progress and here is an update.
After stripping and steaming, I let it dry for a day before sanding. Almost all of the scratches sanded out easily with 220-320 grit, but it still has a couple very small dings that were deep. It would remove too much material to get rid of them. I am not big on sanding with course paper. It only leads to more sanding. This stock was in pretty good shape after the old finish was removed.
I used Minwax Ebony 2718 to re-blacken the stippling. Have to be careful when using the black stain.


Then I sealed the stippling with two coats of Royal London Oil which will also be used on the rest of the stock.



Here are a couple tips to remove tough areas of finish without heavy sanding. In the video I say it is a lacquer finish but upon closer inspection I believe it is actually a type of urethane mainly due to its thickness.


 
Stock is coming along nicely. I put a couple undiluted coats of RLO on, then used a red scotch brite pad to apply another layer. Lightly buffing one section at a time. The red(maroon) pads are around 360-400 grit. The pad is not sanding into the wood, it just helps smooth the surface of the last few layers of oil. After two or three more coats of oil, it will then be time to wet sand using a block and 600 grit(wet/dry paper).