Scott Tank took gauge off, Stuff inside

I have used a fiber optic camera to inspect the inside of several scba tanks, Have not found any 'snot" in them, tho I use an Omega air charger and YongHeng with filters to fill to 4300+ psi. for several years. I would suspect contamination is emulsified oil/water.

Checkout the Teslong Bore Scope on Amazon for $50. I always check out my tanks with it. Just plug it into a USB port and the light turns on, switch to your camera on your computer and take stills or a video ... works good for checking out things we need to check every once in awhile ... oh yeah, does a great job on your gun barrels also. Extremely simple to use and video quality is VERY good. And no ... I have no affiliation with Teslong, but I am impressed with that product.

Question. How are you guys getting the SCBA valve off? What are you using to hold the tank captive and what tool(s) are you using to take the valve off? I am curious as I have never looked inside my tank before.

Don't reuse the tank unless it is clean and corrosion-free inside. I recommend having it tested or at least, inspected, before reinstalling another valve. I am not scaremongering. This is common sense. 

 Here is what happen when water gets in a tank

Stop by any of your local fire deptartments and ask where / who does their scba service. You may find a closer source for your concerns and a lesser fill cost..... and any "quick" fill will heat the tank up to get 4500 that's going to drop when cool, as you've found out.

Just clean inside of tank, hot water, little dish soap &, if you have, long lint brush for clothes dryer. Rinse well with clean water & let dry completely, hair dryer works. As long as it's dried well no problems. That's the last step in hydrotesting. The "snot" should not have damaged interior of tank.

I think that you are confusing the issue describing your valve as a gauge. There are plenty of cheap options for valves available. Whether or not you think that you need a gauge in combination with that valve is up to you. I would be looking for either a second-hand SCBA valve with a built-in gauge or a DIN 300 valve which will be similar to your JB setup but with no gauge. Either way, you will need a fill adaptor to suit and the fill adaptor will have a gauge with it. There are multiple solutions that will cost you only a fraction of what JB will lash you for a new valve gauge combination. Whatever you decide on, make sure the threads are the same as your bottle. There is probably nothing wrong with the valve that you removed from your tank that a new O-ring won't fix anyway. The first thing is to make sure that the tank is serviceable before throwing away any money. If there was gunk in it, it means that there was water in it. If there was water in it, there is a better than even chance that there will be corrosion present. If you must have something made in the US and have it immediately, try a scuba shop.

Ebay has used scba valves for sale. The valves are rebuildable. I have had to machine the valves seal before. 



https://www.ebay.com/itm/283411245354

 "that will cost you only a fraction of what JB will lash you for"

I've had excellent service from everything purchased from "JB". Cheaper is certainly available but not always the best option for something like HPA. I'll spend the money for the quality myself.

Here is what happen when water gets in a tank

Click to expand...

DANG! That's a ton of *surface scale* build up. Any reason you cut the tank open to show the surface scale build up? Do you mean to imply the tank is compromised from surface scale? Should I cut open my hot water heater next to look for container scales?

Here is what happen when water gets in a tank

Click to expand...

DANG! That's a ton of *surface scale* build up. Any reason you cut the tank open to show the surface scale build up? Do you mean to imply the tank is compromised from surface scale? Should I cut open my hot water heater next to look for container scales?

Click to expand...

It failed. Was leaking out of the carbon. Tank failed at 5 years from being filed from a compressor with bad filter. Water ate through the aluminum liner.

Looks like soap/lithium grease lubricate for cutting it open caked up. Mind hitting it with a garden hose, spraying it out, and sharing the same picture inside as picture #2 in your original post?

If the tank is ruined and cut open no harm in spraying it out.

Thanks and not to suggest you are defrauding us with the seriousness of such a risk I'm just legitimately curious because to my untrained eye I see nothing wrong with the tank aside from where it was cut open.

 



There pits. Ate right through. PM your email and I will send you the video of the tank leaking. I waited 2 years to get the tank to cut it open. There wasn't a scratch on the tank. It is 7 years old this month. 

This is probably where it ate all the way through.

I'm leaving the tank the way it is. The white its a powder from the corrosion .

It was cut open on my lathe. It was done dry and use vacuum until I got through the carbon. Used carbide cut off tool. 

That's pretty cool then, thanks for sharing. Must be easier to see the depth in person in your photo it's hard for me to visualize the depth of the cylinder etching and erosion.

When 2 tanks filled at the same location where leaking out through the carbon I had to find out why. 

The tank looked brand new from the out side. 

Just a warning for all the people not using proper filters. Or you can doubt what you see and continue on.

Surprised how many people question what I posted. 

Oh, I was questioning with the intent to learn, not questioning to suggest you were up to something or were not being truthful.