Who thinks a scope should be Optically centered ?

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jwrabbit123

jwrabbit123

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Feb 14, 2018
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Ct, United States
Hi This topic came up today at my shooting range , Do you think your scope should be zeroed at optical center ? and lose half the adjustment value or do you think the scope should be zeroed so as it has its full adjustment ?

'What do you think ?

Some say optical clarity diminishes if scope is not optically centered

Some it should be zeroed to have full elevation adjustment

Some say leaving a scope at end of elevation weakens springs causing accuracy issues

I my self feel any good optic is designed to use the entire range of windage .for long distance shooting , and I believe if scope is put togeather correctly then the image will not degrade at end or windage adjustment . Cheaper glass has alot of degraded image quality around edges .

Also The better Optics the springs are held at 5 points unlike cheaper ones at 2 , So if you glass is good then use your turrets , if it isnt then zero gun and do not touch them , use ol Kentucky windage for longer shots


 
I'll bite I had what I would consider a pretty nice scope (<$1000) and I was using adjustable rings. I opticallly centered my scope then used the adjustable rings to set my zero @ 50 yards.

The rifle fell off the rest onto the bench and the adjustable rings "adjusted themselves". I didn't have an allen key with me to fix the rings so I adjusted the turrets. 

After that I ended up chasing the POI all over the place. It turns out I had adjusted the turret 1 or 2 clicks away from its maximum height & even the minute recoil of a PCP was enough to affect the POI with the subtensions maxed out. Note that after I figured this out and returned the scope to optical center, it performed the box test & subsequent use flawlessly.

So to answer 1 of your questions... yes I use adjustable rings. But after this I plan on making a few changes:

1. When using adjustable rings I'll use them to set my zero at say 60 yards. That would make my turrets +40 to hit 100 yards or -40 for 20 yards (not MIL just math). Basically balancing out my turret to be in the middle of my desired distances. If I were shooting out to 125 or 150 yards I might use the rings to set zero about 80 yards.

2. Use non-adjustable rings & get a scope that can handle a wider range of turret adjustments.

3. Use non-adjustable rings & shim the rear ring to help keep the subtensions from reaching their limits.
 
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I don't optically center. I prefer to use adjustable rings and zero the gun close to the minimum adjustment on the scope so that I can use as much of the adjustment range as possible. I haven't noticed a difference in the image quality as a result, nor have a noticed any accuracy issues. I do use quality scopes and dial for distance instead of use my reticle most of the time.
 
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Yes, center the scope in its adjustment range, shoot then use adjustable mounts to bring it back as close as possible to its center, then fine adjust using turrets.

With 12FT energy levels you usually end up in the last 1/3 of your elevation range with a 25 yard zero.

I holdover anyway but even with a $3000 March scope you definitely get a "darker" image on an indoor range when you are at max magnification whilst at the limit of your elevation travel.
 
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Last few new scopes of mine came optically cantered.



It is the GUN which should have the 20MOA incorporated into the action or rails instead, then it would be easy for the user.

Just like very few scope makers parallax for airguns, similarly airgun makers live in the Stone Age, they just won’t listen.

with the scope over the barrel, it is clear that you have to make it look down to get the POI in the sight picture.

maybe the next airgun will have the barrel over the scope 🤣
 
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