Some things I thought of just off the top of my head...
Too me it'd be notable and pertinent to set each of the 3 scopes so there is no parallax error at 50Y on each magnification (regardless of what the side wheel indicates as true), Why?? because all eyes see differently and every scope is different, even same make and model. AND reset the diopter there so you get the reticle clean at that magnification. Where the diopter setting is set to directly affects where the side wheel focus distance lands at. I shoot FT for an example and I've learned that ranging must be done at only one magnification, leaving the diopter set optimal at that particular magnification, otherwise ranging becomes inconsistent. I've won Freestyle division at our state FT match 4 times with a Gen1 Argos BTR 6-24, one of those was high score. I've won some HFT matches using the scope so it ranges fairly good on 16x. Point being this is the way to go.
Also I'm assuming you have a Gen1 Argos BTR. This is a 6 year old design thus Athlon has come out with a Gen2 Argos BTR which I'm sure has superior feeling turrets than all 3 scopes, new SS internals, as well as a true ZERO STOP! I know you only have these 3 scopes to compare with but this is important to note when comparing older designs to newer designs.
Optical center - the scopes all need to be set there too, because if not the comparison of optical nuances are compromised. Optical quality degrades when the turrets are set on the far ends of the adjustment.
Reticle, that's a personal preference thing but because the Athlon has the whole reticle illuminated it can be used for holdovers and holdoffs in dim or dark conditions just as well as it can do in the day time. Mine is not daylight bright either but I have used illume at dusk a few times with no complaint. This reticle is not my favorite but is still a very good one. The reticles in the other two scopes to me are totally goofy coming from PRS type tactical matches, but I admit I'm picky when it comes to this subject.
I think all specs should be compared across the board. Weight, length, FOV, etc, well everything, because one or more aspects might be better suited for the end users primary intent. In other words glass isn't everything though a top consideration. I choose scopes depending on combined preference of my desired attributes. Believe me, even expensive scopes can have really stupid and funky things about them and definitely there is no perfect scope!!!!!!!!!!!
A little FYI, there exists unit to unit variance in all brands. I've seen it happen many times with the same scope and model, moreso in the less expensive scopes. Sometimes you get an exceptionally good one, or bad one, most of course being acceptable.
Too me it'd be notable and pertinent to set each of the 3 scopes so there is no parallax error at 50Y on each magnification (regardless of what the side wheel indicates as true), Why?? because all eyes see differently and every scope is different, even same make and model. AND reset the diopter there so you get the reticle clean at that magnification. Where the diopter setting is set to directly affects where the side wheel focus distance lands at. I shoot FT for an example and I've learned that ranging must be done at only one magnification, leaving the diopter set optimal at that particular magnification, otherwise ranging becomes inconsistent. I've won Freestyle division at our state FT match 4 times with a Gen1 Argos BTR 6-24, one of those was high score. I've won some HFT matches using the scope so it ranges fairly good on 16x. Point being this is the way to go.
Also I'm assuming you have a Gen1 Argos BTR. This is a 6 year old design thus Athlon has come out with a Gen2 Argos BTR which I'm sure has superior feeling turrets than all 3 scopes, new SS internals, as well as a true ZERO STOP! I know you only have these 3 scopes to compare with but this is important to note when comparing older designs to newer designs.
Optical center - the scopes all need to be set there too, because if not the comparison of optical nuances are compromised. Optical quality degrades when the turrets are set on the far ends of the adjustment.
Reticle, that's a personal preference thing but because the Athlon has the whole reticle illuminated it can be used for holdovers and holdoffs in dim or dark conditions just as well as it can do in the day time. Mine is not daylight bright either but I have used illume at dusk a few times with no complaint. This reticle is not my favorite but is still a very good one. The reticles in the other two scopes to me are totally goofy coming from PRS type tactical matches, but I admit I'm picky when it comes to this subject.
I think all specs should be compared across the board. Weight, length, FOV, etc, well everything, because one or more aspects might be better suited for the end users primary intent. In other words glass isn't everything though a top consideration. I choose scopes depending on combined preference of my desired attributes. Believe me, even expensive scopes can have really stupid and funky things about them and definitely there is no perfect scope!!!!!!!!!!!
A little FYI, there exists unit to unit variance in all brands. I've seen it happen many times with the same scope and model, moreso in the less expensive scopes. Sometimes you get an exceptionally good one, or bad one, most of course being acceptable.
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