Scope Mounting Made EZ

I tried it on 3 scopes. On 2 out of 3 I could not fit the scope jack under the flat part of the scope. I use a lot of compact scopes and there is just not enough room to attach it to the rail without it hitting the scope ring, plus is a PIA trying to turn the 1/2” hex nut and work the scope screws at the same time. Much easier to just squeeze the wedge lightly. If you want to PM me and I’ll send it to you for free.
 
I have been using a bubble level and and Plumb Bob affair for decades and have been playing musical scopes for the last couple of years. Buy a new scope then switch the old ones from gun to gun which is very time consuming for sure. Finally broke down and bought one of the Arisaka units cuz it makes it easy and is made in the USA. Thanks for the video and post.
 
There are really 2 issues we are dealing with in mounting a scope, the first is getting the scope aligned with the bore of the rifle. The second is keeping it there while you tighten the screws. The second is the real issue and where I struggle the most. It really takes a couple of steps or more to get it right. Bottom line: while these devices help in scope mounting, there is no EZ way to mount a scope, it takes work.
 
There are really 2 issues we are dealing with in mounting a scope, the first is getting the scope aligned with the bore of the rifle. The second is keeping it there while you tighten the screws. The second is the real issue and where I struggle the most. It really takes a couple of steps or more to get it right. Bottom line: while these devices help in scope mounting, there is no EZ way to mount a scope, it takes work.

Agree completely. Sometimes it takes several attempts to tighten the scope down without seeing some shift. I usually stick on a piece of tape near one ring and mark it to try to watch for shifting but it still happens. 
 
Looks easy enough, thanks for sharing. 😊



⚠️ However, like nervoustrig said in the linked post.... — this system works in an ideal airgun universe....

For example, if my scope rail is not perfectly perpendicular to the bore (the interior of the barrel) then this little device will simply align my scope with the misaligned scope rail.... 😟



🔶 If I understand this correctly, the critical alignment of the scope to the gun is the alignment of the vertical crosshairs to the bore.

I achieve that by aiming at a mirror about 5y* away, and turning the scope in its loosened rings until the vertical crosshairs intersect with the muzzle.

This assures that when I adjust my scope elevation turret the reticle will go straight up/down, instead of diagonally. The same applies if I use holdovers with the reticle.

*[5y suggested by jarmstrong below, for a 10y parallax]





🔶 The second step I use (thanks to the forum members' advice) is installing a bubble level on the scope (not the rail — because again, the rail can easily be misaligned).

For that I aim at a plumb line in the distance. When the vertical crosshairs are aligned with the plumb, I rotate the bubble level until it shows level — and tighten it down.



🔶Before a shot I take a quick glance at the level — that way I can avoid any cant of the gun, which would throw off my POI when shooting at a range other than what the scope is zeroed at (both holdover or turret dialing...).



Matthias
 
 Dovetails ,I do not like them, I only buy guns with picatinny rails now. I use UTG sport mounts and a wood door shim, split the door shim in 1/2 lenght ways , turn 1 piece around and put them between the scope and the mount. I can put a scope on the mount without being attached to the gun, I can then put this combo on my Weihrauch HW110 or my Zbroia kozak and on my Taipan Veteran(sold) and everyone of them will put the crosshairs in the centerline of the barrel,,, checking with the mirror method

much easier and quicker than levels and plumb bobs

use a criss cross torque pattern and increase tightening torgue in small steps,,{,every mechanic knows this} for the ring caps and remove wedges after torquing is complete

It is all dependant on the Quality of machining of the components used,ie;the gun and the mount.--- The Arisaka products are nice and have different size wedges for different ring heights and work well, I have one of them also.

Matthias, you can move the mirror to 5 ft away, if your scope has a 10 ft parallax, think reflection. It is easier to see at 5 ft

Edit; after reading Matthis' response, I see I wrote 5 ft and I meant YARDS,,,
 
Looks easy enough, thanks for sharing.
1f60a.svg




26a0.svg
However, like nervoustrig said in the linked post.... — this system works in an ideal airgun universe....

For example, if my scope rail is not perfectly perpendicular to the bore (the interior of the barrel) then this little device will simply align my scope with the misaligned scope rail....
1f61f.svg




1f536.svg
If I understand this correctly, the critical alignment of the scope to the gun is the alignment of the vertical crosshairs to the bore.

I achieve that by aiming at a mirror about 5y* away, and turning the scope in its loosened rings until the vertical crosshairs intersect with the muzzle.

This assures that when I adjust my scope elevation turret the reticle will go straight up/down, instead of diagonally. The same applies if I use holdovers with the reticle.

*[5y suggested by jarmstrong below, for a 10y parallax]





1f536.svg
The second step I use
(thanks to the forum members' advice) is installing a bubble level on the scope (not the rail — because again, the rail can easily be misaligned).

For that I aim at a plumb line in the distance. When the vertical crosshairs are aligned with the plumb, I rotate the bubble level until it shows level — and tighten it down.



1f536.svg
Before a shot I take a quick glance at the level — that way I can avoid any cant of the gun, which would throw of my POI when shooting at a range other than what the scope is zeroed at (both holdover or turret dialing...).



Matthias

Good idea with the mirror