Scope Magnification when Zeroing? Max or...?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Anthony Jarvis

Anthony Jarvis

Member
Jun 25, 2018
391
6
Ohio
Ok you Guru’s let’s hear the correct method when zeroing a scope. I have read different say this and videos of people doing this.. I’m confused which is correct! I’m speak SPF scopes. 

Now some say to use max magnification to have accurate mildot spacing throughout zoom ranges is this correct.? Now again some say to use your scopes true magnification to Zero like if it’s a 10x zero on10x, if it’s 20x zero on 20x? 

I don’t know which is correct. I always have used the minimum magnification to zero because I zero at 25. I use holdover but I’m starting to get into using clicks for more precision shots. 
 
Hi Ant, for SFP scopes the subtensions are only accurate at one magnification level and its usually the max and for that reason if you want subtensions to remain constant through out the magnification range you need an FFP scope. I however zero at whatever magnification level I think I will be shooting at the most taking into consideration whether I am going to hold over or just adjust the elevation with turrets, not sure what the “right way” to do it is but this works for me.
 
Upvote 0
Hi Ant, for SFP scopes the subtensions are only accurate at one magnification level and its usually the max and for that reason if you want subtensions to remain constant through out the magnification range you need an FFP scope. I however zero at whatever magnification level I think I will be shooting at the most taking into consideration whether I am going to hold over or just adjust the elevation with turrets, not sure what the “right way” to do it is but this works for me.
Click to expand...

What’s up Olevey? Yeah I use the same method as you my friend. Thanks for the chime in!
 
Upvote 0
I zoom in at the Power I normally use and depending on scope it’s usally 10x or 12x and I zero most my airguns in at 50 yards except for the one I use for coyotes and that I just did a 10x 70 yard zero. I could just buy a SWFA 10x44 scope or a 12x44 scope but I still like the fact I can change magnification if I want and if I do I will rezero on that power. I do have a couple ffp scopes but I still zero them the same way on my airguns, I zero my powder burners in at 100-200 yards but still stick to the mid Power range, has worked for me for over 40 years so why change.
 
Upvote 0
Doesn't matter.

Conventionally, "zeroing" means matching the point of aim and point of impact at a certain distance(and automatically at another distance, unless one zeroes at the apex of the trajectory ), then that's a mechanical alignment of the line of sight of the scope with the physical trajectory of the pellet. This is independent of magnification. So one can zero one's scope, in the sense above, at any magnification. If one changes magnification and the zero changes, then the scope has a problem. I have had a UTG, and a Barska,which had that problem. But half decent scopes like Clearidge, Bushnell, or Mueller typically don't have those issues. 

Having said all that, the more precise a zero, the better one can calibrate one's trajectory. So I always use the highest magnification to zero very precisely, but then shoot across the magnification range to verify the zero won't shift. 

By "zeroing" , if you mean finding holdovers using reticle, then of course it's best done either at the magnification you'll most use, or the one for which the scope subtensions are true, which is typically the highest. 
 
  • Like
Reactions: Eaglebeak
Upvote 0
Doesn't matter.

Conventionally, "zeroing" means matching the point of aim and point of impact at a certain distance(and automatically at another distance, unless one zeroes at the apex of the trajectory ), then that's a mechanical alignment of the line of sight of the scope with the physical trajectory of the pellet. This is independent of magnification. So one can zero one's scope, in the sense above, at any magnification. If one changes magnification and the zero changes, then the scope has a problem. I have had a UTG, and a Barska,which had that problem. But half decent scopes like Clearidge, Bushnell, or Mueller typically don't have those issues. 

Having said all that, the more precise a zero, the better one can calibrate one's trajectory. So I always use the highest magnification to zero very precisely, but then shoot across the magnification range to verify the zero won't shift. 

By "zeroing" , if you mean finding holdovers using reticle, then of course it's best done either at the magnification you'll most use, or the one for which the scope subtensions are true, which is typically the highest.
Click to expand...

Well explained.
 
Upvote 0
The reticle should track the POI regardless of zoom power - that's a basic scope requirement.

Therefore you should be able to "zero" your scope to the rifle at any power.
Click to expand...

Not true
Click to expand...

Okay, Anthony, Fred answered your question, a question you seemed to state you did not know the answer to, and you simply said "Not true." I'm curious as to why you think it is not true. My understanding is that the reticle should track the same POI no matter what the magnification is set at. Only the angle subtended by the windage and elevation markings change with magnification on a second focal plane scope. It is one of the tests our fellow airgunner Joe Wayne Rhea performs on his scope reviews. I'm not trying to start an argument. I just want to understand your reasoning as to why this would not be true. Once I zero my scope, I can repeatedly aim dead on the target at zero range, at any power magnification, and hit the same spot. Only holdover changes at non-zero ranges, and that is only true if you are using a second focal plane scope. On a first focal plane scope, the holdover remains the same regardless of zoom. 
 
Upvote 0
Some scopes now are marked for true moa for zeroing in, you might have a 4.5-24 and it will be marked at 18 so if you put the magnification on 18 and zero in your moa extensions will be true but not all scopes have this, other then that I’ve always been under the impression that a scope should be zeroed in on the highest magnification but then I’m not a turret turner or a scope guru, I use the holdover method after I’ve zeroed in on the distance and magnification I want to be at and from there I have no problems shooting 25 to 100 yards after I figure holdover/under out, again this is just how I do it.


 
Upvote 0
When you are zeroing the scope you can use whatever magnification you want. The poi for your zero distance does not change when you change the power setting of the scope. So if you have a 40 yard zero and a scope thats 5 - 25 power and you have it on 5x when you zeroed the rifle at 40 yds you can crank it up to 25x and its still going to be zeroed at 40 yds. If the zero changes when you adjust the power on the scope you have a garbage scope end of story.

Kinda like the scopes not usable unless its optically centered😉 You hear that one allot also. 
 
Upvote 0
LDP did a great job of explaining what FrankAZ was saying, as well as TheIceman.

There may be some confusion on the term “zeroing the scope”. Zeroing is matching up your aim point to the point of impact. You are trying to make sure the shot hits where you have the center dot/cross (you are at zero mils at the center). Any scope, FFP or SFP, should aim the center dot on the impact point regardless of the magnification for zeroing. The center doesn’t change. So, you can choose any mag you like. As someone stated above, I like to do it on highest so I get the best aiming point. 

Zeroing is different from matching up your mil lines for alternate distances. That is a different step from zeroing. That depends on your scope and what mag you like to shoot at. Also keep in mind that not all SFP reticles are set the same. Many are not set at max. I only have one that is set at max, And others are all set less. You must research your scope to figure that out. For FFP scopes, it doesn’t matter, as the holdovers are the same at all magnifications (5mils at 5x is the same as 5mils at 50x). Again, pick a mag you like.

Hopefully that helped. 
 
Upvote 0
LDP did a great job of explaining what FrankAZ was saying, as well as TheIceman.

There may be some confusion on the term “zeroing the scope”. Zeroing is matching up your aim point to the point of impact. You are trying to make sure the shot hits where you have the center dot/cross (you are at zero mils at the center). Any scope, FFP or SFP, should aim the center dot on the impact point regardless of the magnification for zeroing. The center doesn’t change. So, you can choose any mag you like. As someone stated above, I like to do it on highest so I get the best aiming point. 

Zeroing is different from matching up your mil lines for alternate distances. That is a different step from zeroing. That depends on your scope and what mag you like to shoot at. Also keep in mind that not all SFP reticles are set the same. Many are not set at max. I only have one that is set at max, And others are all set less. You must research your scope to figure that out. For FFP scopes, it doesn’t matter, as the holdovers are the same at all magnifications (5mils at 5x is the same as 5mils at 50x). Again, pick a mag you like.

Hopefully that helped.
Click to expand...
 
Upvote 0
The reticle should track the POI regardless of zoom power - that's a basic scope requirement.

Therefore you should be able to "zero" your scope to the rifle at any power.
Click to expand...

Not true
Click to expand...

Please explain yourself.
Click to expand...

Every scope I have had changes POI when changing the magnification. Now the change may not be significant, but the poi does indeed change when increasing the magnification. If I zero on 4x then change to say 12x or higher the Impact will be off center. Doesn’t even need to be 12x I was just paraphrasing 
 
Upvote 0
The reticle should track the POI regardless of zoom power - that's a basic scope requirement.

Therefore you should be able to "zero" your scope to the rifle at any power.
Click to expand...

Not true
Click to expand...

Please explain yourself.
Click to expand...

Every scope I have had changes POI when changing the magnification. Now the change may not be significant, but the poi does indeed change when increasing the magnification. If I zero on 4x then change to say 12x or higher the Impact will be off center. Doesn’t even need to be 12x I was just paraphrasing
Click to expand...

As a few others have said, that should never happen. Center should always be center. I have never had a scope change center and would never use it if it did. That way you can shoot at any target on the field and change magnification if needed based on distance or conditions. 
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Resources
Menu