I install my scopes so that it looks just right for me, the way I shoot. I've found that when I use some of the accepted methods, it just doesn't look right. So, I don't overthink it. Works for me.
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Scope level and canting
- Thread starter Skip-in-WV
- Start date
I saw Joe Rhea's video on the Arisaka scope alignment tool and figured why not 2 wedges . I tried it on my last 2 scope mounts and it worked perfectly, so I had no need to readjust
BUT if your mirror check shows that the vert reticle does not line up with the bore you need to re do it so it lines up
you can check it on a scope already mounted. When you gently shove the shims together , under the center of your scope, do you still have wobble,looseness, or do they all come together nice and snug. you don't ham fist it
BUT if your mirror check shows that the vert reticle does not line up with the bore you need to re do it so it lines up
you can check it on a scope already mounted. When you gently shove the shims together , under the center of your scope, do you still have wobble,looseness, or do they all come together nice and snug. you don't ham fist it
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The thickness of the cheek rest on some guns will throw your eye off when looking thru a scope that’s 100% plumb with the bore and vertical crosshair. You couple that with chunky cheeks on your mug and you will always think the scope is off. Ask me, I know, as I own a gun with a beefy cheek rest(Bully) and I’ve got the chipmunk cheeks going on(got to loose the weight, lol)
what made me catch that is the Wildcat hardly has any type cheek rest, and when I look into the scope at a target it’s always near perfect, but I always check my anti can’t level just out of habit. When I set that gun away and shoot my Bully, I always tend to have to pull the cheek rest towards the left(I’m a right handed shooter) smushing my face, just to get the anti can’t to be level. And when that’s level, my view into the scope looks good.
I mount my scopes the same same way using three procedures- Wheeler scope mount tool, the Aluminum shims under the scope as a double check, and the final check is placing my gun in a rest, braced, then sight towards a plumb line marked on my garage wall. Anti Can’t levels are calibrated to a plumb bob string hanging on a tree. If all is good, the vertical cross hair should be equal to the plumb bob string, and anti can’t bubble is level.
Im not a professional at any of this, but it all works for me.
what made me catch that is the Wildcat hardly has any type cheek rest, and when I look into the scope at a target it’s always near perfect, but I always check my anti can’t level just out of habit. When I set that gun away and shoot my Bully, I always tend to have to pull the cheek rest towards the left(I’m a right handed shooter) smushing my face, just to get the anti can’t to be level. And when that’s level, my view into the scope looks good.
I mount my scopes the same same way using three procedures- Wheeler scope mount tool, the Aluminum shims under the scope as a double check, and the final check is placing my gun in a rest, braced, then sight towards a plumb line marked on my garage wall. Anti Can’t levels are calibrated to a plumb bob string hanging on a tree. If all is good, the vertical cross hair should be equal to the plumb bob string, and anti can’t bubble is level.
Im not a professional at any of this, but it all works for me.
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