Hi everyone this is my first post here but not new to pcp’s! My brother and I got sucked into the dark side about 15 years ago but took a hiatus for the last 10 years due to life changes (starting a family, etc). As of recently we have 400 acres to play with and dusted off our guns but to our surprise literally everything needed to be resealed...,including one of our 45 minute 4500 psi tanks. I bought a survivair 45 minute tank from Joe B over 10 years ago and it developed a small leak from the valve, no longer holds air. I took the valve apart, changed out all the seals and found the valve seat was ruined (crappy design- brass valve seat coated with what looks to be delrin- the updated design is made of solid brass). The delrin? on the valve seat had split and no longer holds air rendering the valve useless. I tried buying a new valve seat but I can’t seem to find one for sale. My question to you guys is....can I buy a Draeger valve (or any other brand ex. Scott, MSA) and install it on my survivair tank? Are the threads universal for SCBA tanks? I’ve been researching this topic but can’t find an answer, anyone here have an idea? Thanks, Steve
SCBA valve compatibility question?
- Thread starter Buck_Wild
- Start date
Apparently you want to make a bomb?
IF your tank is less than 15 years old, you MIGHT be able to get it serviced by a licensed provider. You are really risking your or someone else's life by cobbling together a 4500psi bottle, even if you don't fill it with air (someone else might end up with your cobbled bottle and get killed). Just the sound of the air hissing out of a ruptured or damaged line, seal, or crack in the tank will literally blow your eardrums out. This stuff is no joke - even MythBusters didn't think it was funny.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_Jk_Wlmvbc&list=PL3NU8thUkBNHiElVasqD-lTR8jW1392EC&index=5
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlFWTcgjhl8
Scroll to 6:45 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=08IDdDEgJx8
IF your tank is less than 15 years old, you MIGHT be able to get it serviced by a licensed provider. You are really risking your or someone else's life by cobbling together a 4500psi bottle, even if you don't fill it with air (someone else might end up with your cobbled bottle and get killed). Just the sound of the air hissing out of a ruptured or damaged line, seal, or crack in the tank will literally blow your eardrums out. This stuff is no joke - even MythBusters didn't think it was funny.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_Jk_Wlmvbc&list=PL3NU8thUkBNHiElVasqD-lTR8jW1392EC&index=5
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlFWTcgjhl8
Scroll to 6:45 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=08IDdDEgJx8
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Thank you CenterCut! It’s exactly what I was looking for. The valve on my Draeger tanks are waaaayyyy smoother and more predictable than the valve on the survivair. It would be nice to replace it with a more readily available, smoother operating valve.
tojohn...I’ve seen that myth busters episode myself and have a healthy fear of all things hpa! My survivair tank is nearing its lifespan but honestly since it’s been in my possession it has been boxed up stored empty in my basement for the last decade! When I removed the valve the threads looked great and the inside was spotless. I’ve never dropped it or mishandled it, externally/internally visually perfect and hasn’t stored any air for 10 years. This is the only reason why I would entertain replacing the valve as the tank hasn’t been cycled much. The valve itself is in great shape minus a badly designed valve seat made out of delrin/ brass unlike the updated seat that is made of all brass. Unfortunately I cannot find a source for the updated part. Btw, it was a very slow, inaudible leak coming from the main fill/charge orifice and absolutely NOT coming from the tank/valve connection, otherwise I would have trashed it completely. I’m not opposed to tossing it....unfortunately I just love fixing things and honestly I’m bored out of my mind as I live in nj with this coronavirus nonsense going on and the state is under “quarantine”.
tojohn...I’ve seen that myth busters episode myself and have a healthy fear of all things hpa! My survivair tank is nearing its lifespan but honestly since it’s been in my possession it has been boxed up stored empty in my basement for the last decade! When I removed the valve the threads looked great and the inside was spotless. I’ve never dropped it or mishandled it, externally/internally visually perfect and hasn’t stored any air for 10 years. This is the only reason why I would entertain replacing the valve as the tank hasn’t been cycled much. The valve itself is in great shape minus a badly designed valve seat made out of delrin/ brass unlike the updated seat that is made of all brass. Unfortunately I cannot find a source for the updated part. Btw, it was a very slow, inaudible leak coming from the main fill/charge orifice and absolutely NOT coming from the tank/valve connection, otherwise I would have trashed it completely. I’m not opposed to tossing it....unfortunately I just love fixing things and honestly I’m bored out of my mind as I live in nj with this coronavirus nonsense going on and the state is under “quarantine”.
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I have a Scott SCBA tank valve (full assembly) if you want/need it. Have no idea what they're going for but PM me if you're interested & I'll send you pics.
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Meant to say also, you're not REALLY "cobbling" a tank together. I was a firefighter and licensedhydrotester for years. Had to replace valves a # of times, no sweat. If your tank has had the light use & long storage you say it's had I wouldn't be too concerned about it blowing apart. Yes, tanks have a 15 year "life" but that's because they also give them a 15 year window of safety (CF tanks in general should last for 30 years, especially lightly used tanks). That being said EVERYONE who has a compressor really should have a safety cage (blast cage) place the tank in while filling but I've yet to see one in pictures of people's rigs posted here. I, personally, wouldn't have any concerns about changing out valves.
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