Repainting my stock, have a question to those that have done it

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Bigragu

Bigragu

Member
Jul 8, 2018
4,884
2,355
CA, United States
hey, guys. I finally decided to do the right thing, as I’m tired of trying to guess on color matches being as I’m color blind, by having the local paint shop just make me a custom match paint. Tried matching the flat dark earth that came pre painted on my scope to my Bully stock. IMold and others I’ve seen have went as far as painting their moderators, and although it adds a cool touch, I am hesitant on painting aluminum. But, these moderators come anodized, and I’m ignorant on paint over anodized. So, to those that have done it, hows it holding up? I understand a scratch or two like we get on our cars, as an example, but what I don’t want to happen is if I run my fingernail over the paint job, I don’t want to literally be scratching it off. 



The paint shop shop did an awesome job on matching the paint, and I can’t wait to post the pics. Lessons learned- the one thing I did not do the first time(because I didn’t know)was to pre spray a tack grip coat on plastic prior to the top coat. I was wondering why just putting the stock on a rest the paint easily scratched off, and it was because I didn’t pre apply that stuff on the first paint job. Now I’m confident this matched coat will be more durable.

Anyway, let me know if the LDC’s have held up to the paint.

thank you
 
Remove all oils...
Click to expand...

Bingo..Prep is the most important thing when it comes to painting and also if your worried about aluminum they do make a self etching primer you can use before you paint after you have scuffed up the aluminum with a Scotch Brite pad. So far my paint job on my Bully is holding up pretty good but then any paint job can get ruffed up if you are not careful.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Greyhaven
Upvote 0
1540487518_2956114495bd1f95e3541f2.73976177_C38DCED8-6777-4729-8CD9-46A22043B709.jpeg
1540487518_19707906355bd1f95ea1b1d7.09885556_CF9CFC93-F8C0-410E-8EB5-72C14A347735.jpeg
Thanks, all. I think I’m going to wait to assemble everything back, then re evaluate the cool factor a a matched painted moderator. From the pics I’ve seen from others, it look really great. Wish I could find a moderator wrap in this exact color. 

Ill post up pics in a few days with everything reassembled. I’m following the paint shops instructions- wait two whole days for top coat to dry, then apply clear coat. If not, it’ll cottage cheese up.
 
Upvote 0
All you need to do to the LDC is use a Red Scotch Brite pad which you can get at most autopart stores for a couple bucks, then after yo have scuffed the LDC up(don’t need to get to aggressive just get all the sheen off it) then wipe it down with a Tac Cloth or thinnner just to make sure all dust and contaminated stuff is off, then take and spray a coat of self etching primer on it and let dry then wipe or blow off to get any dust off it again then take and spray it the color you want, let paint set up and put on another coat and let dry. It will look nice and should only take a hour to do and then let dry for 12-24 hours to make sure the paint is all set up and hard.



or find a wrap to put on it just don’t cover up any small venting holes if yours has them, might use a pin to open holes if yours has them, I used toothpicks to block of all the holes on my Emperor, think it was like 30 holes and my Emperor looked like a small porcupine.



Sometimes we want to over think things and make them more difficult then it has to be.
 
Upvote 0
Hi Bigragu, I needed to redo an air tank and a shroud tube on an air rifle and tried a can of this "Duracoat" from MidwayUSA and was extremely happy with the results. I am a licensed painting contractor... I started in this trade with my Dad 50 years ago when I was 13 years old. So for me to get excited about some new kind of paint takes a little doing...but rather than go off on a tangent suffice for me to say this Duracoat is the best thing I have seen in many years. It drys fast and once it thoroughly cures for a few days it is impervious to most solvents and whatever else you can throw at it. It is like cerakote but with no baking involved, just air dry. It is pricey, but was worth every penny to me. I will just caution you to spray several very light coats and let dry thoroughly between coats. Do not put on real heavy coats and do not put a coat over the previous one if it is not completely dry, or you will trap a wet coat under your surface coat. That would require stripping and starting over. By the way, I like the looks of what you have done so far.

Chuck

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1841368409/lauer-custom-weaponry-duracoat-aerosol-firearm-finish
 
Upvote 0
1540512953_3950061545bd25cb9307258.71237965_48942288-7976-4231-B8A3-2242A4CD8BC7.jpeg
1540512954_16856845085bd25cba962909.90042831_D264B28A-F05A-4845-99E5-AD16EE40196C.jpeg
Thanks, Chuck!! Your the painter, and I’m the tin knocker, lol. Been a sheet metal worker for 32 vested years. Us tradesmen always think our trades the best, don’t we, Chuck? Lol!



Yeah, I got 2 SOLID coats on the stock, and yes I took your advice unknowingly, by spraying a bit at a time. I emphasized the word solid, because really, there’s probably 4 coats. When you go over one side, then do the inside of the stock, over spray hits the side you just painted. Plus, when you think lm done, I pop out a flashlight and spray touch up spots. That overspray just recoats previous painted areas.



these pics show the color chip the paint shop made up for me, to show how close they got it to the Monstum’s flat dark earth. Can’t wait till it’s done. I think it’ll come out pretty good.



still debating on matching up my DonnyFL Shogun to the stock. I’m gonna honestly say I’m short two beers from going for it. That’s all it’ll take for me, lol.



oh, Chuck, so this paint store, called Warehouse Paints, they have a commercial/residential department for house and building paint, then a separate area for automotive. Cool stuff like Eastwood carries. Anyway, this was made custom blend using automotive type paint. Pricey at $24/can. Being color blind, I probably would’ve wasted more in regular off the shelf colors, and my gun stock would’ve gained a 1/2” in thickness with all the wasted paint, so it was worth it to me.


 
Upvote 0
1540685948_14869705065bd5007c9b26a4.14281495_40E768EF-C5DD-4174-BFFD-D8F4B870B0DC.jpeg
1540685949_6513113035bd5007d5745b9.83783986_7942B6BC-88EC-4CB3-8743-4B3A6EBDE997.jpeg
Slowly coming back together. This time I’m skipping the clear coat. I’m glad I sprayed a test piece, cause even at over 48 hours cure time the test piece showed signs of incompatibility with the clear coat and the paint, by doing the spiderweb/cottage cheese thing. Now it’s stop and wait for a part from Hatsan to come in.

The bottle cover, although painted, isn’t going back on
 
Upvote 0
So, need advice on this one- I let that paint cure for almost 3 whole days before re assembling the gun to the stock. I slightly nicked a tiny spot at the trigger guard and the paint scratched off. What product can I apply to this newly painted stock to keep the paint from scratching off? Or is this to just be expected on DIY paint jobs? I know cerakoting and/or hydrodipping stocks are the way to go, really, but that is for another time. 

I did everything right this time- scuffed the entire stock with a new scotch pad, cleaner degreaser wash down, alcohol wipe down just prior to paint. And, as I mentioned, this is top quality paint I used, and I followed all instructions. Only item I did not apply was the clear semi gloss top coat for fear of cottage cheesing the paint job.

whats weird is when I removed the masking tape on the bottle cover, a small part of the paint came off with the tape. No biggie, just re spray, right? Well, just applying the color coat over it caused the cottage cheese to happen on that area. I’ve never had that happen when re applying paint for touch up.
 
Upvote 0
This is what happens when you give a tin knocker a paint job!😂

The problem you're facing is that your paint has no adhesion! The reason your paint has no adhesion is because you did not use the correct primer! So at this point you are faced with removing all the paint and starting over from scratch. But this time you will use the correct primer!

It's either this or over time every time you barely touch it or bump it or Nick it the paint is going to come off and it's going to look terrible.

And just so you know, putting clear coat or anything else over the top of paint that has no adhesion to begin with only exacerbates the problem.
 
Upvote 0
I’m not sure what to do now, Chuck. I’m all ears. I mean, what’s the best way to remove this paint, chemically or with a pressure washer?

now I’m upset, cause I relied on these paint store “pros”. These weren’t Home Depot associates that they guy in the paint department was socking lumber the day before. These were personnel that worked at a specialty paint store where professional painters get good, quality paint, both for house and automotive.

what these guys told me was to(first time out) to pre spray a plastic/vinyl degreaser prep first, wipe down, then paint. Well, that didn’t work. Second time was to scuff the snot out of the stock, clean with degreaser, wash it, wipe it with alcohol prior to paint, then spray on a tack grip spray so as to hold onto the top coat. Did all that, and still no good. 

Ive always sprayed a primer on metal prior to top coat. I didn’t know they made a primer for plastics specifically. Why wouldn’t these paint store guys tell me this?! 
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Resources
Menu