Removing/lubricating side lever - Fx Royale

I'm gonna try to explain the process and tips i've found that helps me to get the job done, i haven't seen any topic or video explaining this so i hope it helps.

1. Remove the HST adjuster. In this case you can see i got the golden one but it may vary with a black steel one. In case you have the black HST adjuster you're gonna have a hammer weight instelled too that will come out when you pull the adjuster and spring out. Some R400 have hammer weights, all R500 and Boss have them

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2. Remove the trigger. See this topic ----------> Royale trigger after a couple thousand shots[/QUOTE]https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/...uple-thousand-shots/embed/#?secret=gq45rccXtg

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3. Now that we have the trigger out we will be able to remove the hammer. In this pic we can see: brass hst adjuster, washer, hammer spring and hammer. The hammer weight would be between the hammer spring and hammer acting as a spring guide, that's why you will need the black hst adjuster wich doesn't have a spring guide built in.

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4. Remove the two screws on the upper part on the block wich holds the lever guide and lever itself to it's pivot point

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5. Carefully pull the plastic lever guide out using the angled side of an allen wrench from the buttom of it, it can be quite tough tho so be patient.
You can then remove the side lever and pellet probe without effort

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Regarding the lubrication now, the only parts i lube are marked with a circle. In the red one i use moly paste (metal to metal contact) and in the green one i use silicone grease/liquid silicone (plastic to metal). I've tried using moly paste in boths sides but the side lever was becoming sticky and not too smooth
Another important conclution i reach was that the hammer and the chamber where it slides needs to be completly free of grease or any kind of lubricant, otherwise it will slow the hammer down when striking the valve loosing velocity and increasing ES.
To reassemble just reverse the steps

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I hope you got me :)

p.s. i've found the liquid silicone thing is actually not necessary, the moly paste in the parts i mentioned above is just fine
 
You sir, have just been +'d!! 
Excellent how-to guide. Thank you for posting this!

Caution on the HST screw! - It should be lock-tite'd. Use heat to loosen up the lock-tite and DON'T force it! The hex center on the black ones round out pretty easily. I use a hair drier and moderate pressure to start and then will move up to more aggressive heat sources such as a heat gun or soldering iron.
Also, measure where it (and everything else) is before you start the removal process.
Tom
 
"Glem.Chally"So helpful, did this with yours and Jkings help that lead me here. 
Thanks Gents
Does any of you know what the little threaded hole in the back of the receiver is for?
Hey Glem, it is a hole to attach the rear end of a FX verminator MK2, which uses the same action block as a Royale.

Concerning the HST screws, the steel ones can be really tight and are easy to FUBAR, the brass one is a lot sturdier, and can most of the time be loosened with just a allen key.
The hex part of the steel one is almost thin as paper. In some cases when one cocks too brisk, the hammer weight can get caught in the hex part of the nut, causing the hammer to jam. I've seen it happening several times.
 
"weatherby"
"Glem.Chally"So helpful, did this with yours and Jkings help that lead me here. 
Thanks Gents
Does any of you know what the little threaded hole in the back of the receiver is for?
Hey Glem, it is a hole to attach the rear end of a FX verminator MK2, which uses the same action block as a Royale.
Concerning the HST screws, the steel ones can be really tight and are easy to FUBAR, the brass one is a lot sturdier, and can most of the time be loosened with just a allen key.
The hex part of the steel one is almost thin as paper. In some cases when one cocks too brisk, the hammer weight can get caught in the hex part of the nut, causing the hammer to jam. I've seen it happening several times.

That's great to know. I had good luck with my HST adjuster, it wasn't loc-tited when I bought it and no damage to it after lots of adjusting, I bet some people try to use SAE hex's and strip them out haha. But yeah they are paper thin.

One more for the advanced class, what is the valve between the bore for the hammer and bore for the cocking arm? Might be a dumb question but I don't see why it needs that second valve looking thing.

2nd pic from the bottom.