Regulator tuning guides

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Drumsnguns

Member
Jun 14, 2016
959
19
North Carolina, United States
I have watched tuning guides by Steve, Matt and Ted and they are all excellent, albeit, different. Each has it's own logic and merit but I'm a bit confused.

With Steve, you set your reg. pressure then adjust hammer spring fine tune to hit that max velocity spot before it starts to decline.
Ted says max it out, then set reg. just above the desired speed then work your way back down to the desired speed with the hammer.

I tried both methods. My question is how do you know your "desired velocity" or your proper reg pressure? Here's the deal: with my Impact first I set the reg. to 125 bar, (on the Huma gauge), as suggested by FX; then I found the top velocity with the hammer spring fine adjust. Then I set the valve to the point the velocity began to fall. 

Shot 8-shot groups at 50 M and they were very good .....about 0.5-0.6" at 860 fps with King Heavy MKII.

I messed around with the power dial and to my amazement the groups tightened way up, (looks like 0.4"), when I put on setting C which gives me about 825 fps. But the hammer spring is now no longer tuned to the reg, which is still at 125 bar. I could just leave it on C and be happy but guess I'm not that smart. 

So, I think I'll try setting to MAX and then start at 100 Bar and slowly go 5 bar up at a time shooting groups at 50 M as per Matt's procedure and see if I can find that harmonic spot where I get the tightest groups....then fine tune the hammer spring setting.

So my question is ...does that make sense or should I stop wasting air and lead and be happy at C? I just want to get rid of variables, shoot on Max and tune the hammer to the best reg setting.

What can I say,,,,the Impact is an amazing but Complicated gun!

Thanks to Matt, Steve and Ted for all of their hard work and great videos.

KP/NC



 
Thanks Txrpls,
Thanks for the tips and yes too many options on the Impact, at least for me. That's why I like my Cricket. 
I "think" I understand the valve now after watching Steve's recent video. But the gun uses the slingshot hammer so not sure about hammer bounce. I just run it in a very slight turn at a time until I just see the speed start to fall.....if you start from all the way out and go in the speed will actually rise a bit then it will start to drop and right there is where I stop. That's where it's supposed to be it's most efficient.. Makes sense, but we'll see I guess.

Care to PM me the link on the "other" gun forum?

Thanks 
KP

 
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1. Do all your performance modifications on your air rifle (valve, transfer port, barrel porting, hammer, hammer spring, etc).
2. Adjust your hammer towards the lower range if you are tuning for high shot count and lower energy.
3. Before you put the regulator in it, shoot it through a chronograph, note what airtube/tank pressure equates to the velocity seen. Shoot a full string (full to low pressure).
4. If (for example), you note that when your airtube/tank drops to 1800 PSI, you are at your desired velocity/FPE, then that is the pressure you need to set the regulator to.
5. Install the regulator set to the desired pressure.
6. Do minor tuning with hammer to get your velocity/FPE spot on.

If you are tuning for higher velocity/FPE (but low shot count), the task is similar, but with the hammer adjusted to strike somewhere between 50 and 75% of the strike ability.
Listen to your shot retort (the sound made when the pellet leaves the bore), quiet means efficient, for the given velocity. If you reach the point where hammer spring adjustments are noticeably increasing noise, but velocity is not significantly climbing, you have passed the "knee" where efficient shots are achieved for the given pressure. Or, in other words, an airgun which is tuned to be quiet, will give you more shots of any given velocity. If you cannot reach your target velocity/FPE at a lower pressure, increase the pressure the regulator is set for. For optimum use of air, there is an ideal combination of pressure and hammer strike which is required. There is no magical pressure which is good for all velocities/FPE and weight of pellet. Heavier pellets typically require a higher regulated pressure, lighter pellets less pressure. Raising pressure decreases valve dwell for a given velocity/FPE for a given pellet. Try to keep dwell reasonably short.

Note: these are cliff notes, there is more detail involved. Like any suggestions, there are exceptions to them. (especially with air rifles being so different inside).
 
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