Refurbishing a stock. Help wanted

Check out joewaynerhea posts... Some of the best there is..

Tominco is the man for this. Not only is he an airgun expert, hes also a woodworking genius

This: https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=520722

George (NoremF) is probably the most knowledgeable woodworker/finisher that contributes ( a lot!) to gun forums that I have read since the internet became a thing. Go to the above link and soak it in.

My personal favorite, that saved me a lot of time, was finishing with tru-oil and Armor All. You wet your bare fingertips(index one, middle other) with each separately and rub it onto your stock, they mix together and a chemical reaction occurs and the heat from your fingers and friction make it cure very quickly. It is like magic the first time you try it. You can coat a whole stock in an hour and it feels dry to the touch. The first coat might take longer, later coats less, stop when happy with results.

It depends on the type of finish you like. I personally prefer a satin finish and only use boiled linseed oil. It is easy to apply.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzVdsln29o8

There are lots of other videos. Tru Oil is also easy to apply if you like a glossy finish.

I used Minwax Wipe on Poly Satin on my 300s stock and really like the way it turned out. In the past I’ve used Tru Oil and Tung Oil but like the poly better.

You didn't mention stain but just in case you're planning on going back to a more original looking dark brown, beech is tough to stain without it being blotchy. I refinished a 300s, beech Mini stock and chose to let it be blond rather than risk the blotchiness.

Formbys is what I like to use. It's an oil/laquer product that I presume is similar to TruOil. 

NT

Although, it can take a few weeks, I really like the Boiled Linseed finish. It is not a "high gloss look but more of a flat finsh and you can still "feel the wood". It also is easy to touch up down the line.

Joe Wayne Rhae has a video on the Wipe-on Minnwax which looks about the easiest way to finish.

I have had mixed results with Tru-oil. Works great with traditional walnut but ended up tremoving it off a lighter colored stock. Tru-oil will be the most work and most technique sensitive. I would reccommend to watch several U-tube video before you begin. You will need to thin the first several coats almost 75% or you will be sanding for days. Only the last 2 coats do I ever use it full strength and it's a very thin coat.

I've had Excellent results with Minwax Antique Oil. Joe Rhea spoke highly of it,as well. Not glossy,just a very nice satin-type glow and VERY easy and forgiving to work with. I've used it on both my walnut Pro Sport and Diana 75U T01.

I've never been able to finish wood to my satisfaction. Maybe I'm too impatient. I like a glossy smooth finish and I can never get the wood grain closed. Maybe some one can suggest how to accomplish that.

I've never been able to finish wood to my satisfaction. Maybe I'm too impatient. I like a glossy smooth finish and I can never get the wood grain closed. Maybe some one can suggest how to accomplish that.

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There are grain fillers available but I havent used them. https://birchwood-casey7.mybigcommerce.com/gun-stock-sealer-filler-3-fl-oz-bottle/



Tru Oil will eventually fill the grain but it takes many, many coats and lots of sanding. I built a muzzleloader probably 35 years ago and used Tru Oil, once it started building I would apply a coat, let it dry and sand, then repeat. It took a long time but I made sure it was completely dry before sanding. The stock did come out looking like a mirror though.

Use wipe on poly to wet sand the stock until the pores are filled.. Learned that on a guitar finishing forum.. By the way wipe on poly is just oil based poly cut 50/50 with orderless paint thinner..

I stopped using Polyshades by Minwax years ago. Darn stuff dries so hard I had a devil of a time getting it off my Ultra-Hi Kentucky stock. And that, " blotchy" stuff is just slightly softer parts of the wood where the stain soaks in a hair more. Hardwoods can be that way. I use Minwax oil stain, typically two coats. Wipe or brush it on. Allow to set 15 minutes or so. Then evenly wipe off the access. Two coats is usually needed. I then use 3 to 8 coats of Tru-Oil over that when it dries to seal the surface, give a nice shine, And above all, make the grain details pop under the right lighting.

Here's my 160 Pellgun variant 1 finished in this fashion with Minwax oil stain #231, Gunstock;



And my 760 Powermaster variant 1, finished with Minwax oil stain #224, special Walnut. But on the butt stock only to match it to the forestock, which is original stain with 1 coat of Tru-Oil.

I stopped using Polyshades by Minwax years ago. Darn stuff dries so hard I had a devil of a time getting it off my Ultra-Hi Kentucky stock. And that, " blotchy" stuff is just slightly softer parts of the wood where the stain soaks in a hair more. Hardwoods can be that way. I use Minwax oil stain, typically two coats. Wipe or brush it on. Allow to set 15 minutes or so. Then evenly wipe off the access. Two coats is usually needed. I then use 3 to 8 coats of Tru-Oil over that when it dries to seal the surface, give a nice shine, And above all, make the grain details pop under the right lighting.

Here's my 160 Pellgun variant 1 finished in this fashion with Minwax oil stain #231, Gunstock;

And my 760 Powermaster variant 1, finished with Minwax oil stain #224, special Walnut. But on the butt stock only to match it to the forestock, which is original stain with 1 coat of Tru-Oil.

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Looks awesome!