Recognize this unbranded PCP compressor sold under a brand name? Reliability?

Ok. After viewing some repair videos I saw where on one of the compressors they use a clear flexible plastic tube with one end stuffed into the compressor inlet, and the other into a simple press fitting on the end of the cabinet. This would not require any drilling or modification to the cabinet, and would allow you to inject a few drops of oil while it's running.

Start viewing at 17 minutes. 



https://youtu.be/CVjPaOQ_jR8



It appears that there is already a hole for the fitting next to the fan cover on my compressor. 

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You are welcome.

I think this will be tomorrow's project to measure the inlet port to the compressor, and hopefully be able to find some tubing at my local Ace Hardware. This simple mod could be the difference between an early failure and a compressor that keeps on running. The fact that the hole is already there proves that the manufacture is setup to install whatever options.the importers want.

This mod should cost about $1.00 for a ft of tubing.
 
Ok this is easier than I thought.

I took the cover off and found that the inlet to the compressor is a copper mesh screw in filter. See the photo where I used an inspection mirror. With the compressor completely assembled, the filter mesh is 1.4 inches below the vent slots underneath the cabinet.

To occasionally inject oil, all you need is a precision bottle oiler, which can be purchased from Amazon for $6.00 a pair. The needle is 1.5 inches long. Perfect!

I cannot see why you couldn't run the compressor upside down with the vent open, while dribbling a few drops of silicon oil on top of the filter mesh. The oil will go directly into the compressor. I suppose you could occasionally remove the filter, and wash it in solvent to keep it from clogging.

https://www.amazon.com/bottles-stainless-needle-your-Oils/dp/B076YZY5ZK/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2GEQN8JZ3WFCH&dchild=1&keywords=oiler+bottle&qid=1624654928&sprefix=Oiler+%2Caps%2C217&sr=8-4

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What about running a tube to the filter and let the few drops of oil being sucked in through the filter? Pump temperature should not be that high (60-80C max) to melt the tube. Or if there is no way to secure the tube around the filter to the pump, then remove the filter and run the tube into the hole with a sleeve outside the opening holding it flush, and place a similar material filter inline/inside the tube. 
 
I considered that, but while it's still under warranty, I decided to leave it the way it is. After the 1-year expires, I may consider moving the filter to the bottom of the cabinet, screwing in a metric barb fitting into the compressor head, and connecting them with a short hose. On the other hand, it's so easy to get to the inlet through the slots in the cabinet, I may just leave it alone until I need to remove the compressor for repairs.

Having found its just so easy to get to the mesh filter, it's hard to justify making any changes. 
 
I received my air compressor (see first post) and noted a huge SAFETY issue with the GROUND on the transformer. 

Will separately post about it (and the fix), but for now I suggest that anyone with a compressor like this (or a clone) check your GROUND:

Make sure it's unplugged. Take a multi-meter/Ohm meter and test the GROUND pin on your 110V plug (larger middle/lower one) against the metal case of the transformer. If there is no continuity, then if there is a short (and if you are touching the case) the electricity will go trough your body into the ground. The pump itself is 12V so no death there. But I will check later that too for a ground because a 30 Amps short can weld metal together (like a car battery).

But, here is the question I wanted to post:  I understand that the pump must not start and stop under full pressure. Filling a gun directly is not a problem because of the check-valve that is in the airgun/botte. But what about if you are filling a small pony bottle/tank with 2000-3000 psi that has only a hand-crank valve? Starting the fill is ok by opening the bottle/tank valve after the pump built-up some pressure in the connected line. 

But what about stopping after you filled the bottle/tank to 4500 psi? The Chinglish manual says that you should not stop the pump against high pressure...and must bleed it first. So am I supposed to crack open the pump's side-mounted bleed screw and then immediately close the hand-crank valve on the bottle/tank? That's a lot of 4500 psi air for those those seconds blowing out...
 
But, here is the question I wanted to post:  I understand that the pump must not start and stop under full pressure. Filling a gun directly is not a problem because of the check-valve that is in the airgun/botte. But what about if you are filling a small pony bottle/tank with 2000-3000 psi that has only a hand-crank valve? Starting the fill is ok by opening the bottle/tank valve after the pump built-up some pressure in the connected line. 

But what about stopping after you filled the bottle/tank to 4500 psi? The Chinglish manual says that you should not stop the pump against high pressure…and must bleed it first. So am I supposed to crack open the pump's side-mounted bleed screw and then immediately close the hand-crank valve on the bottle/tank? That's a lot of 4500 psi air for those those seconds blowing out…



Open the bleed and close the tank valve at the same time or add a check valve between the fill hose and tank valve. For example.

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Thank you Eaglebeak. I don't trust the Aliexpress or Ebay check valves but I see that Pyramid Air is selling them for $15. I need to make sure the check valve blocks the flow from the direction of the air tank so the pump can overcome it.

Mine are from AliExpress. They are stainless steel of good quality and are only a couple of bucks each. The flow direction for this type of fitting is always from the male foster side to the thread side. The Male to male fitting can be flipped to flow in what direction you desire. I use the DIn 300 type to attach to my 6.8 L bottles and the M-M at the pump outlet. With this setup, I can interrupt the filling process at any time without losing pressure in the filter and line. I've found these cheap fittings to be very effective and reliable. 
 
Mine are from AliExpress. They are stainless steel of good quality and are only a couple of bucks each. The flow direction for this type of fitting is always from the male foster side to the thread side. The Male to male fitting can be flipped to flow in what direction you desire. I use the DIn 300 type to attach to my 6.8 L bottles and the M-M at the pump outlet. With this setup, I can interrupt the filling process at any time without losing pressure in the filter and line. I've found these cheap fittings to be very effective and reliable.

Thanks for the tips. I will relook at the AliExpress option. I had a bad experience about 10 years ago when I was new in PCP. A filling hose I bought on Ebay blew up on me at about 1500 psi. Sounded like a shot. I promised myself not to skimp on HPA fittings and hoses again. 
 
The ac to dc 12v power supplies sometimes have switch 220 to 120. Garage outlet 120v worked for me. Went through 6 of these types of compressors, rebuilt and sold off. They look similar from outside but they are different design an execution. Best one that I had and would recommend is the tuxing. Don't start pressurised for prior listed reasons. Tuxing had best quality of pump cylinder, water trap between stage 2 and 3 and internal output airline coil cooling. Coolest, driest air of the bunch. Had Hatsan and several no name Alibaba versions. Yes these are 3 stage compressors. All 3 stages coaxial, stage 2 wrapped around stage 3 and stage one on the motor side. Currently have the big Tuxing (water cooled, 2 head, double filter) to fill Tiger Shark.
 
Hey guys,

So I received my "Spritech" orange compressor 2 weeks ago off Amazon and used it for the first time yesterday at the range, twice with no issues :) I have a 2 questions about this compressor if anyone can share from personal experience:

1. A gentleman at the range stated that when filling his gun with his YongHeng, in order to extend his compressor's "life", once the gun is full, he usually bleeds the air while the compressor is STILL running - then he shuts the compressor off. By doing so, he's making the "turn-off stage" easier on the piston of compressor (instead of hitting the "compressor" button which will turn it off and then bleeding out the air). He compared this to driving a car say, 80mph, and then soddenly turning off the engine at once rather than hitting the breaks, slowing down, coming to a full stop then turning off the engine. It does make since to me, just wondering if anyone has ever tried that with this or with a different comparable compressor?

2. Also, since this is an oil-less/waterless compressor and regardless of the manual, what is the max temperature which you'd turn off this compressor at to prevent early failure in C or F? (I will use silicon oil moving forward, just curious about a recommended max temp for this type of compressors in your opinion:)

Thanks a lot to anyone able to share!

Ari