Guantlet ( a few pics) ramble on

Though I would add a few pictures & ramble some more.

First the forearm section covering the air bottle seems to give some people problems?
There is a metal tab on the forearm the the sling stud screws into

and you can see the two tabs that " lock" into the rear section.
Just loosen the sling stud ( you dont need to but can remove it entirely) gently squeeze the sides of forearm just in front of tabs and it slides off almost too easy.

When reinstalling, alignment is NO issue - and easy- IF you just loosen ( 1/2 turn) the two screws on the rear section just behind the forearm, slides right in perfectly, do retighten those screws. Do NOT tighten the sling stud/screw first! If you do you will never get the upper tabs aligned and if you align the upper click tabs first the metal tab is perfectly positioned for tightening.

The trigger is ever so QB78/79, any guide you can find will apply. The only difference I noted was the Guantlet uses allen screws instead of the dreaded smaller than eye glasses straight screw, nice! A 1.5mm fits the sear engagement and over travel and a 3mm is your weight screw. 


I backed the weight out 3 turns and set the engagement as short/little as possible while still holding when smacked on the floor hard. Excellent single stage trigger. I added a jam nut to that adjustment.

cocked after setting looking through the sear engagement peek hole.

The stock is HEAVY! Must be a full 50% of the rifles weight. It does seem a QB79 stock , may, fit. The biggest issue ( I think) will be the extra band around the drop down block the QB doesn't have, looks like it may come off?

The umarex/ninja tank with stamping SO deep you could cut yourself on it ( a bit scary and unlike any other bottle stamping I have seen but I'm sure it's fine).

Note this is NOT the ninja reg that can be rotated for orientation of the guage/fill, it was stated by a dealer who is not on this forum that you could just loosen the screws and turn it a bit if needed. I am just a no body who believes this would be a VERY BAD idea.
Here is a picture of the tank which CAN be oriented

Note the higher quality fasteners used on the 78 conversion, I intend to upgrade the Guantlet's fasteners asap, shouldn't be needed tho.
And a rough measurement for those wondering about power potential. Based on a QB this volume of air should be good for 30fpe in .22, roughly & depending on valve + work.


About it for today. It did have enough thin oil in it to lubricate 1,000,000,000 o-rings which is better than none and it is thin. Targets - had to fix that trigger, long spongy creep was all it had- then port & polish & such.

The Marauder's day's of ruling the lower price class just ended.


John

edit for a few more pics &.

indeed the stock has some heavy metal., it looks like most of the metal could be eliminated if one could live with a stationary cheek piece, I can and will down the raod.
there is seemingly a detent screw under the butt pad that can tighten the wheel that move cheek piece

while the rear sling stud is what loosens the adjustment knob this screw WILL tighten that knob down completely, NO wiggle, I would be careful about that as it seem to tighten against threads tho.
Hard to see in my pictures ( did get a tri-pod today so might get better) the forward most recessed screw but you can see the piece the cheek riser adjusts through & set screw that is attaches it to adjustment wheel. The entire unit - from the forward most hole left to 1/8" before butt-can be removed then set it flat and afix it with? Or two 3/8ish post for height would fit right in.

I'm just going to keep adding pics here for newbies hopefully to find untill I start modding then I will start a new thread. About the end of any usfull picture I can think of.
Everyone knows what they look like but here's the overall pic

Ugly White lettering and, naturally Bolt closed. You can see the front hold down screw for the receiver - this and the rear trigger screw hold the breech down-.

with the bolt pulled back but not locked down

and with the bolt ALL the wat back, and, locked down, ready to insert a clip or single shot tray which anchors around the stub of the barrel protruding from rear of breech.

Your multi shot clip inserts from the right side and the single shot tray inserts from the left side of rifle.

clip not quite all the way in, just needs that last "snap" when pushed in.

clip almost in place

single shot tray correctly in place

I plan on replacing the drop down fasteners with something better and sinking the forward most screw flush so the socket head itself carries the load and extra pins for the valve.
Also need to test the reg's psi, swap in a 1,150 I have already , swap to a .22 barrel, max the valve, see what else fit's inside and such as tha.

John

yet another edit/add
I check the lead today, smooth, pellet probe seats a JSB heavies well past the transfer port and is a thin as you would want - think modded QB already done-.
The rear shroud mount isnt machined into the receiver but does sit in a recessed/milled out section for a more secure fit than other designs.

I still cant measure anything but it does appear ( on 2 different rigs) that the barrel has just abit removed towards the rear ( bringing it to exactly 11mm ? )

QB parts to the left Gauntlet to the right


the extra spring far left is a much softer spring known to work well in a QB at 850psi

And some chance, based on targets only, I was having odd fps drops every couple of clips. 
On this one the forward trigger block screw is TOO far up into the airtube and dragging on the striker. A washer under the screw head fixed this.\


John