Rebuilt my Shoebox this weekend

I purchased a used Shoebox 4500 about 3 years ago on the YFC. It had worked flawlessly until my last fill, when it cut off early at about 3000 PSI. I had always assumed it would begin to leak and be readily apparent when it needed to be rebuilt. I've learned that isn't necessarily the case. It won't necessarily have an obvious leak. I emailed Tom Kayne, got a prompt reply from Tom that I needed to do the rebuild so I ordered the parts which arrived two days later.

Mine is an older unit and the videos reflect some of the more recent upgrades Tom has made, but they are close enough and very helpful. All in, it took me about 30 minutes and my Shoebox is working perfectly again. It's still the best air gunning money I've spent. 

I did have an idea that might be useful to others when rebuilding their Shoeboxes. I have big hands, and the lower cylinder O-rings are quite small making it difficult to get them properly seated in the cylinder which is critical if its going to work correctly. My first attempt I tried seating them with my fat fingers and the cylinder leaked. Second try, I decided to use a long Allen key that is just ever so slightly smaller in diameter than the lower piston. The Lithium grease will hold the little O-ring steady enough that you can get it well seated inside the cylinder before pushing it all the way in with spacer. So much easier that trying to seat it with fingers. Hope you find this useful if you are rebuilding yours.
 
When you put the delrin sleeves back in the cylinders, did you find you have to align the holes vertically in the airshaft or does it not matter? I do not think Tom discusses that.

Too, I tried to rebuild my ShoeBoxMax but could not get thos %%$$#@ c-clamps off without damaging the outside of the cylinders. I salvaged the motor and then bought a new F10..



Good job..
 
I didn't pay any attention to where the holes in the spacers where, so I don't think it matters. The C-clamp/clips are the worst part of the whole job. If you don't have the right tool (~$15 at Lowes) it would be near impossible to get them off. Even with the right tool they are a bit of a challenge. I found using the C-clamp pliers and a very small thin flat head screw driver together was the easiest. 
 
The snap rings are nearly impossible to remove if you don't use a quality pair of bent tip extraction pliers. If you have the right pliers they are relatively simple to remove. Invest in a decent pair from Northern Tool, Lowes, etc. or online. Be sure to order one for the proper snap ring hole size! Here's an example of one from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3571-7-Inch-Internal-Pliers/dp/B002RCAWKC/ref=asc_df_B002RCAWKC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807921328&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4813825759497473418&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009979&hvtargid=pla-589940214868&psc=1