RAW HMX Parts (Pics of inner Guts)

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Dirte

Dirte

Member
May 21, 2016
1,027
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Washington, United States
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V Quick fill block, Foster, check valve, spring, gauge and 4 o'rings.

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Regulator and I believe 4 o'rings.

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Trigger assembly.

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Hammer Assembly Hammer, inertia weight, 2 springs. spring guide, power adjuster plug and o'ring.

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Valve spring, plug and 1 o'ring.

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Valve bore with seat.

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Valve plug, spring,delrin guide, and valve.

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Valve with delrin guide, valve seat with 3 o'rings.

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Standard round moderator assembly.

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Bottle neck with o'ring.

This is a Rapid Air Weapons HM1000X .25 LW
A few questions have come up lately about RAW parts and/or what's the inside look like. I have never seen a parts schematic on the RAW HMX, so I figured I would compile a few pictures of the guts from my gun.
My opinion is...... The HMX seems to be a simple design which is built like a tank. Feel free to correct me or add pictures or other information. Other parts can be found here https://www.rapidairweapons.com/xcart/home.php?cat=256&sort=title&sort_direction=0&objects_per_page=50
 
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"jking"Thanks for sharing Perry, yup there's nothing light duty with the RAW's. You got further than I did. My stock is so tight that I gave up trying to pull it off. Oh well just wanted to see what it looked like any way. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
Jimmy
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The stock on my HM 1000 was tight also. I slipped a small wooden wedge up between the stock and the fill yoke and once it started to move it was easy to finish removing. However, I could not get it started back in. I then took some 220 grit sandpaper on a 2 inch wide aluminum bar and did some judicious sanding to the point the action is snug but not stuck. A little Danish dark walnut oil and it matches the rest of the stock. The action now can be inserted with moderate pressure. It is snug but not stuck.
 
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"jking"Thanks for sharing Perry, yup there's nothing light duty with the RAW's. You got further than I did. My stock is so tight that I gave up trying to pull it off. Oh well just wanted to see what it looked like any way. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
Jimmy
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My HM 1000 was that tight also. I took a small wooden wedge and inserted it between the fill yoke and the stock until the action started to move. It was then fairly easy to remove. However, I could not get it started to go back in. I took some 220 grit sandpaper and a 2 inch wide aluminum bar and did some judicious sanding on both sides of the inletting until I could just get the action to go in with moderate pressure. It did not take much sanding. Then I used some Danish dark walnut oil and it all matches. Slips in and out with a snug fit.
 
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what are your guys opinions do you think the walnut is still drying and shrinking thats why there super snug my laminate wasnt pry bar material but once out it goes back and forth nice and snug,,,is it just walnut that super tight? pat love the pics unfortunately i had to brake my rig down like yours,, according to mark b some of the hammer springs are diferent mine is doubled up like DIRTES some may be singles
 
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I finally got my stock off this evening and spent an hour or so sanding the tight spots. I had to use a large screw driver to separate the stock at the fill yoke as well. There was a couple of tight spots on both side of the fore arm by the yoke assembly and then back in corners at the receiver end. Could be that being cut and shaped in Tennessee and then shipped to the desert things tend to dry up further. I've never seen a stock this tight though.
Jimmy
 
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"spysir"All stock should be that way, mas production is the reason most all fit SO loose.
A good custom stock - any rifle- should be tight enough to hang off the action with fasteners, and, have no negative effects on grouping.
Tight is right, I personally would not remove any wood, just me.
John
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I Agree 100%
The only areas that should have .005 or more clearance is the part of any stock that is beside the barrel. Floated barrels snug actions are best.
 
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Well I know Ncrary's gun was negative a couple thousands. He brought it over and I didn't want to break it it was so tight. Also JKing mentioned of stopping just short of using a high lift jack to remove his. Or maybe he said he did use a high lift jack to remove it..... Can't remember. ;) My two guns are snug as they should be and remove as they should. I agree RAW is built to tight tolerances but, you should never have to pry a receiver out of the stock. This gun either swelled or shrunk wood tends to move in different climates. Both these guns came from a humid area and were sent to the desert.
 
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That gun I had was 3 years old and came from Arizona so I think the stock was as stable as it could get. Once it did get it out, I could not even get it started back in. So I sanded enough to get it back in and it is still a tight fit. Very snug and requires moderate force to remove and replace. 

I got it for my neighbor. He came to pick it up yesterday. I offered him his money back so I could keep it, but no, he wanted to take it. I should have never let him shoot it.
 
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"ncrary"That gun I had was 3 years old and came from Arizona so I think the stock was as stable as it could get. Once it did get it out, I could not even get it started back in. So I sanded enough to get it back in and it is still a tight fit. Very snug and requires moderate force to remove and replace. 
I got it for my neighbor. He came to pick it up yesterday. I offered him his money back so I could keep it, but no, he wanted to take it. I should have never let him shoot it.

Mine is the same as yours ncrary. Still almost impossible to pull out from the receiver end using the scope as the only thing to pull on which I don't want to get wild with but after I get it moving on the forend I can inch the back up also. I think I could snug it down, unscrew the bolt, throw in a drawer somewhere and never know it was missing. Now that's a fit..
Jimmy
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