RAW HM1000x New Moderator setup

Here it is. Neil has the measurements from my gun, he can make you one without having to send yours to him. It’s nice and quiet!

Stoti

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This is my first post on any forum so bare with me. My new 22 RAW is quiet when shooting at the 48 ft/lb level. But it is very big, 1st half is 2.020 Dia, 2nd half is 2.050 Dia, 15 5/8 in long and is mounted on a .6494 Dia. barrel. When you have a 50mm scope mounted on high scope rings the moderator is higher than the scope lens. The moderator comes in 2 pieces, the 2nd half that holds the 2 baffles sections screws onto the 1st half. They are not the same diameter so you will easily see were the 2 are mated together. 

I ordered this gun the first of April and received it at the end of Sept. So I was quite surprised when I open the box and seen this very large moderator that look nothing like the sleek carbon fiber unit that I thought i would be getting. So you may want to look at other after market moderators. Please let know what you decide to go with as I am strongly thinking of changing it out for one that would still work and complement the RAW air rifle. I can understand why silencers for fire arms are called 'cans' and this one certainly looks like one. 




 
Your moderator looks really good. Would you be willing to share some of your build details of your moderator design? I also don't understand why RAW/Air Force can't make a decent moderator design.

If any one is interested I can try to upload a picture of my new RAW showing the moderator disassembled.

There is nothing magical about my mods they are basic flat washer and cages wrapped in felt, the only difference is I make mine as accurate as I can so the hole in the baffles are as close as possible to pellet Dia without clipping. I machine a over sized blank that I fix to the barrel then machine that while the barrel is held between centres, that way it runs 100% true to the bore not the barrel od, Typically, the hole in the first baffle it only 0.25mm bigger than pellet Dia, the other baffles and endcap are 0.5mm bigger than pellet Dia.

The design is basically the same for all my mods/shrouds only thing that changes is the length and Dia, longer fatter is better for high power while a compact mod can do a perfectly good job on a lower powered gun. I make mods from 32-40mm Dia and 125-350mm long ( longer if I am able to reflex down the barrel), while the shroud I make are typically 30mm Dia and project 125-225mm past the muzzle.

This is a mod the reflexes 65mm down the barrel (longer barrels and longer reflex, the the barrel support would be made in two pieces) the cages are wrapped in 1 layer of fine steel mesh , this is to stop the felt wading that the cages are wrapped in from being dragged into the path of the pellet.



FB4E1EC1-FCA8-45EB-91A0-92AFA44035EB.1606813335.jpeg
4A8AEBFB-D3FB-4754-9F4E-CFD857A2545B.1606813336.jpeg





There is no “one size fits all” each mod is slightly different, the exact spacing between baffles vary, altering the baffle placement by only a few mm can and does make a big difference to noise output and tone. 


Typically, a mod for a 60fpe .22-.25 would be 350mm long 36mm Dia and project past the muzzle by 225mm

Bb


 
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Your moderator looks really good. Would you be willing to share some of your build details of your moderator design? I also don't understand why RAW/Air Force can't make a decent moderator design.

If any one is interested I can try to upload a picture of my new RAW showing the moderator disassembled.

There is nothing magical about my mods they are basic flat washer and cages wrapped in felt, the only difference is I make mine as accurate as I can so the hole in the baffles are as close as possible to pellet Dia without clipping. I machine a over sized blank that I fix to the barrel then machine that while the barrel is held between centres, that way it runs 100% true to the bore not the barrel od, Typically, the hole in the first baffle it only 0.25mm bigger than pellet Dia, the other baffles and endcap are 0.5mm bigger than pellet Dia.

The design is basically the same for all my mods/shrouds only thing that changes is the length and Dia, longer fatter is better for high power while a compact mod can do a perfectly good job on a lower powered gun. I make mods from 32-40mm Dia and 125-350mm long ( longer if I am able to reflex down the barrel), while the shroud I make are typically 30mm Dia and project 125-225mm past the muzzle.

This is a mod the reflexes 65mm down the barrel (longer barrels and longer reflex, the the barrel support would be made in two pieces) the cages are wrapped in 1 layer of fine steel mesh , this is to stop the felt wading that the cages are wrapped in from being dragged into the path of the pellet.



FB4E1EC1-FCA8-45EB-91A0-92AFA44035EB.1606813335.jpeg
4A8AEBFB-D3FB-4754-9F4E-CFD857A2545B.1606813336.jpeg





There is no “one size fits all” each mod is slightly different, the exact spacing between baffles vary, altering the baffle placement by only a few mm can and does make a big difference to noise output and tone. 


Typically, a mod for a 60fpe .22-.25 would be 350mm long 36mm Dia and project past the muzzle by 225mm

Bb


Thank you for this post and info. I admit, I really don't fully 'get' the concept of how mods really work, so I'm grateful for the insights I'm able to glean here and there.

The picture showing what appears to be 'stacked discs': do they all have holes drilled in each disc? Are they the same size in each washer? Are they aligned, or are the rotationally staggered? On the vented sections: did you machine those yourself or where can you get these type of pieces?

Sorry for all the questions-just trying to learn...

Sean
 
Your moderator looks really good. Would you be willing to share some of your build details of your moderator design? I also don't understand why RAW/Air Force can't make a decent moderator design.

If any one is interested I can try to upload a picture of my new RAW showing the moderator disassembled.

There is nothing magical about my mods they are basic flat washer and cages wrapped in felt, the only difference is I make mine as accurate as I can so the hole in the baffles are as close as possible to pellet Dia without clipping. I machine a over sized blank that I fix to the barrel then machine that while the barrel is held between centres, that way it runs 100% true to the bore not the barrel od, Typically, the hole in the first baffle it only 0.25mm bigger than pellet Dia, the other baffles and endcap are 0.5mm bigger than pellet Dia.

The design is basically the same for all my mods/shrouds only thing that changes is the length and Dia, longer fatter is better for high power while a compact mod can do a perfectly good job on a lower powered gun. I make mods from 32-40mm Dia and 125-350mm long ( longer if I am able to reflex down the barrel), while the shroud I make are typically 30mm Dia and project 125-225mm past the muzzle.

This is a mod the reflexes 65mm down the barrel (longer barrels and longer reflex, the the barrel support 



4A8AEBFB-D3FB-4754-9F4E-CFD857A2545B.1606813336.jpeg

Thank you for this post and info. I admit, I really don't fully 'get' the concept of how mods really work, so I'm grateful for the insights I'm able to glean here and there.

The picture showing what appears to be 'stacked discs': do they all have holes drilled in each disc? Are they the same size in each washer? Are they aligned, or are the rotationally staggered? On the vented sections: did you machine those yourself or where can you get these type of pieces?

Sorry for all the questions-just trying to learn...

Sean

This is the support for a mod that reflex’s only a short distance down the barrel, it is a one piece item that has a series of grooves to form washers that are all interlinked by breather holes. The purpose is two fold, firstly it keep the weight down while still offering support and alignment. secondly, it acts as baffles to disrupt the backward blast of air.



Bb