RAW Air Leakdown Normal?

First off, I would not store it with less than a full reservoir. I keep mine full in storage and have not had any issues.


Second, you can de-cock it by holding the cocking lever all of the back, pull and hold the trigger and hold it, and let the cocking lever close.



Good luck!

Not normal at all mine sits anywhere from150-230 bar and doesn’t loose any pressure sitting for weeks.

Yea ... a small leak from the poppet not sealing well .. ESPECIALLY on a new gun is IMO no big deal.

As too Air Leaking out the barrel when filling ... COCK THE GUN before filling which takes hammer preload off the valve stem.

It shouldn’t leak unless the pressure holding the valve shut is less than the force from the hammer spring trying to open it, it which case is will start to hiss them whoosh, it would not be a slow leak...ever!



The first thing you need to do is ascertain that the leak is from the barrel and not from the block. With the bolt locked forward, put a soap bubble over the end of the mod, any leak down the barrel will be very obvious as the bubble will inflate quickly.

If that is not the cause then you will need to investigate further, before you remove the action from the stock, REMOVE THE BUDDY BOTTLE, or you will break the ears where the Qf and gauge cut out is. Replace the buddy bottle, use a plumbers leak detection spray and apply to all the HP fitting, qf (they often leak through the the fill hole) , gauge, reg, valve cap and bottom blanking plug. Any leaks will cause the spray to foam.



Assuming it is the valve then it could be from two possible areas, the large o ring on the valve body ( these sometimes get a small nick when the valve is being fitted) or more likely the stem sealing face has a slight deformation. either way, the valve has to come out to investigate.

Bottle off, dry fire once to depressurise the block (you will hear the air rush through the reg) 21mm spanner, to remove the reg, remove the valve cap, pull out valve spring and stem. Knock out the two trigger pins and remove trigger cassette. Remove hammer cap, hammer spring, and hammer assembly. With a dowel (pencil or chopstick) push the valve out.

Valves can sometimes be rescued.... put the poppet of the valve stem in a cordless drill, put a blob of metal polish on the poppet, hold the valve body and slowly spin the the two parts, lapping the faces together., slow and gentle.

reassemble in the reverse order.



Report back your findings..





Bb

Shortwing, the advice given is good, but assuming it is a new rifle, and not knowing your experience with such things, I would not advise taking it apart right now. Go shoot and refill it a few times. If the leak persists, try and detect it at all the seams, I use a little Ballistol, but any airgun friendly substance will work. If you find the source (or not) I would recommend you then call Martin in TN and follow his advice from there. If it's something as simple as a bottle seal, or the shuttle valve in the quick fill, it can be fixed without a complete tear down. Guess it depends on your comfort level with fixing it, weighed against the time involved in returning for a warranty repair. When I bought a motorcycle years ago, a friend cautioned me that there are only two kinds of riders, those that have gone down, and those that will! Leaking air rifles are similar. If you have one 5 years and it isn't leaking, probably time to reseal as a matter of routine maintenance, because it's not going to begin leaking at a convenient time. 

Heck .. fill it up and shoot a bunch of NO PELLET shots practicing hold and trigger control. These empty chamber shot will further bed in the poppet head to valve body & WON'T HURT A THING doing so.

Heck .. fill it up and shoot a bunch of NO PELLET shots practicing hold and trigger control. These empty chamber shot will further bed in the poppet head to valve body & WON'T HURT A THING doing so.

Click to expand...

Yes and no, if there is a small piece of debris between the poppet and the the valve face hopefully you suggestion would work, shooting out of the barrel, If it doesn’t every shot will damage the poppet more as the debris puts more and more dents in the poppet, making it unrepairable without a lathe.



Bb

Yes, so long as there is air in the bottle you can dry fire the raw.......









.....wear ear plugs



Bb

when you shoot it and its that low in pressure, hammer will keep that valve open.... so, cock the rifle and fill it up to 10 bar above the reg pressure and then decock it and thats it!

It’s the small o ring on the reg core that has gone. Mark the position of the brass locking collar in relation to the body, unscrew the collar and remove core, do not alter the reg nut.

remove bothe the large and small o rings, replace with new ones, lube with a little silicone grease, reinstall the core, scre on the locking collar until the two marks line up.

If a new gun as mentioned the poppit has to get seated by firing. I have seen other guns as the theoben have a slow leak and over time empty out all air. The bottle and the oring you mentioned after having the pressure over time flatten out. Once the gun is not pressured up the bottle CAN be loose. Orings do give up and that all depends on the material of the oring. the leak you are indicating should not imo leak out the barrel or tp area. TP sees no air till opened unless poppit is not sealing and or as mentioned debris on the seating area. 

I have a small unregulated 3000psi bottle for guns that will not take a compressor or slow fill bottle that I use on guns that will not take air. I blast the the fill with the HPA. Usually I use 1000psi that seats the poppet and then top off the gun with another source. Then ck for leaks.

The Flex orings are a std oring. Here is something I found that might help you on the orings.

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=167535.0;attach=298458;image

JMO