R5 Matador trigger help?

Let me guess … you watched a video on the R5M on YouTube and saw where Gregor Kamensek told you that you could turn the trigger connection rod and help improve the trigger pull. If you did watch that video you would have seen in the comments section where Brian came on and told Gregor not to do it because it reduces the sear engagement and the sear must have at least .07 mm on the sear or you run the risk of an accidental discharge when flipping the gun from FIRE to SAFETY.

In attempting to get my gun's trigger the way I wanted it, I also came to the point where it would cock and not fire but you have to realize that both screws work in harmony and if you change the engagement of one you have also changed the engagement with the other one. I eventually got it close to where I wanted it to be and was somewhat satisfied … BUT I never touched the linkage.

At this point I would say that the best thing you can do to the gun is nothing, get on the phone and call Brian, tell him what you did and ask him for the remedy. I could guess that you might just want to turn the linkage back in the opposite direction that you turned it to, but I am not sure …. give Brian a call for the best advice, he knows a whole lot more than I do about it. Good Luck!

John

Uh, guys, it seems to me that there is a kind of misunderstanding regarding two screws. 



1. At early R3M we have two screws on the trigger. Like on that picture.





As you can see there are two screws there. They worked as follows -- when you push the trigger the screw # 1 start to push the plate of the balance-beam. In the beginning of the movement of the trigger the screw # 2 is not touching the beam, but before the sear ready to release the hammer the screw # 2 touch the beam and the shooter feels it as "step", indicating that now there will be shot if he pushes a little more. So, by adjusting by those two screws it was possible to set the moment when the screw # 2 touch the beam, thus making the trigger harder or softer, adjusting the step, making it from hard to no step.



Then I decided that we don't need the screw # 2, as it just makes the adjustment too complicated for those who doesn't undestand the logic of the work and I removed it and made the pad on the trigger, instead of it. Look at the next picture.





So, the logic of the work is the same -- by adjusting the screw # 1 the shooter can adjust the moment when the pad touching the surface of the balance-beam. So the adjustment at R3M remaind the same as it was before, but easier.



Now I see that the second screw at the trigger system of R5M/Lelya 2.0 makes people confused. Here is the picture:





As you can see we have two screws again But they are not as it was before. The adjustment of the trigger is the same as it was at late R3M, the shooter should use the scew # 1 to adjust the "step" making it harder or softer or remove it completely. But the screw # 2 has nothin with the trigger. That is the stopper. You know when you shoot and the trigger keeps moving the accuracy is work in comparison with the case when the trigger stopped right after the hammer released off the sear. So the screw # 2 is to be set to stop the tirgger. It is very easy to do -- ajust the trigger to your comfort way, then screw up the # 2 and check out if the hammer still is able to be realeased of the sear when you push the trigger, When you get the position when the hammer is still hold by the sear though you pushed the trigger up to the end -- unscrew it a little bit back. So, when you adjust it this way you will have the trigger you want and it will stop immidiately the hammer is rellease, that will help you with the accuracy. 



Hope it was helpfull for you.



Ed

doesn't get more helpful than that... thanks Ed!

As always, Ed comes through with all the right answers to the world's most disturbing problems. Hey ... with this little bit of new found knowledge I may give it one more try. I have a break on the second stage but it is so very little that I have to be very careful and go extremely slow pulling the trigger or I wont even feel the second stage break until after the pellet is down range. Again, thanks Ed!!!

I’d like to share one other story on topic. I was attempting to adjust my trigger as it was not as light as my R3M. I found that after getting to a certain point of 2d stage screw adjustment the gun would fire when taken off safety. I had over adjusted second stage and did not have enough sear engagement.

I wanted the trigger to be as nice as my other guns. I lubricated the sear contact points lightly with a lubricant I have now been using for several years on other guns and found the sear would no longer engage at all as adjusted. I then adjusted Exactly how Ed posted above and I achieved what I was after. First stage is long, but I have a definite wall and a light, crisp second stage with negligible overtravel. The safety works perfectly as well. Very happy with the whole R5M Long .25. So much so that I started discussing a Lelya with Brian.

Let is know if you continue to have a problem. Better yet, share your delight when you get it back to where you want it

Jekyl, I only knew because I had thought about doing it myself until I read the comments section … ohhh and by the way ... I want my favorite hex key set back as soon as you can remember where you put it. As I always say, I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.

@likkitysplyt

.07mm sear engagement? Really?

07mm sear engagement? Really?

Click to expand...

0.7 mm in fact, no less. I think that is just mistyping.

Thanks Ed, I suspected as much.

I think Ed's reply to this post just pushed me over the edge on getting an R5M standard. To say great customer service is an understatement. 

I see one in my future also. Im hoping a christmas bonus will cover this. If not then gonna have to set aside a couple quartly bonuses. Will so be worth the wait

Great to hear an easy way form the man himself on how to adjust the trigger, I'll just have to try it on mine and comment on the results later.

thank you!

hi,

i am trying to adjust the trigger to completely remove the first stage, cant do it.

secondly when i try to lighten the trigger via the 1st screw there comes a time when i cant engage the safety. turning the screw out a little i can engage the safety but there is a 'step' between safety on and off. if i leave it this way, will i be damaging anything ?

the gun is getting better over use, i scored a 197/200 and won a 50 meters benchrest match