Question about the weihrauch hw97k.

I own an HW97K in .22 and can say This: Believe The Hype. I plan on adding one in .177 in the near future.

As far as your current rife is concerned, try removing the two screws you mentioned and clean them with some degreaser. (I use contact/brake cleaner for this) then spritz a little on a cotton swab and clean out the threads on the rifle. Add a drop of BLUE loctite to the screws and reinstall reasonably snug. You may want to let them "set-up" for a day. This should Really help hold things together. Hope this helps You!

The HW springers are absolutely Top Notch!

Mike

The screws can work loose even on the 97. I think it just depends on the particular gun. If they do then a dab of blue loctite as mentioned will do the trick. The 97 is a tack driver btw.

This problem is common on many springers including higher price range springers. I've had better luck with Vibra-Tite VC-3 on my guns

Yes, the VC3 is better. I couldn't remember the name and was too lazy to get up and go find the tube.

I screwed my HW97 screws tight and then decided to use Loctite. I started with Blue and ended up Red Loctite which itself cannot hold its place for screws tightened.

I set the HW97K-T aside (I was shooting it a LOT with the loosening screws in the wood messing up scope zero) and got the same caliber in the HW98 which happens to be .20 for the K-T (my first last and only HW97K) and the HW98 .20 was also my "first" top quality springer after the HW97.

I learned a lot of things for my own observations in the HW98 .20 v HW97K-T .20 which just simply told me the HW98 is the offhand shooter while the HW97K-T was the sand bag bench type "air rifle" to use without standing upright with it.

So the 97 is accurate it just needs bagging and recoil management to make those one holers after having to cock the underlever every time you reload on the bench or sandbags to shoot again.

Offhand the underlever is a pain in the you know what to shoot no matter how it is "balanced" with a SECOND barrel or piece of useless cocking force steel adding weight to your offhand rifle position which should be as light and balanced as YOU can make it using the RIGHT stock adjustments to fit YOU and not the standard height and weight shooter these production rifles are made of.

That is why shooting an HW98 before you invest in an underlever is a good idea! I never went BACK there to underlever after my first HW98 .20. Everything HW stands for is incorporated in the HW98 to suit you personally while shooting from ANY position even if it is the shameful (!) sandbagged benchrest!

I used to shoot high powered rifles for groups less than an inch at 100 yards;

But now I shoot air rifles for offhand shooting and absolute accuracy.

I compete with the 97k. Good news is that once you tune the gun, vibrations are reduced and screws do not back off even without locktite. Bad news is, you have to tune em to get repeatable performance that is smooth. So in short, if you can get parts to tune the Umarex, go fot it. Otherwise use strong glue to keep screws from backing.

Fischer, Have I got this right? From this and about a hundred other posts I get the impression the hw98 is your favorite gun?

Just teasing.

Fischer, Have I got this right? From this and about a hundred other posts I get the impression the hw98 is your favorite gun?

Just teasing.

Click to expand...

Sorry! Yes. Convicted and destined for the final penalty of using only HW98s for consistent shooting all weather all times!

I have gotten to the point I believe the HW98 is all I need and everything else I'd worry about in the "standard factory" rifle disappears in the glory to adjust the stock properly!

Fischer, Have I got this right? From this and about a hundred other posts I get the impression the hw98 is your favorite gun?

Just teasing.

Click to expand...

Sorry! Yes. Convicted and destined for the final penalty of using only HW98s for consistent shooting all weather all times!

I have gotten to the point I believe the HW98 is all I need and everything else I'd worry about in the "standard factory" rifle disappears in the glory to adjust the stock properly!

Click to expand...

It's really that good? Does it have any issue with screws coming loose like my current rifle? Sorry for being persistent about it, but having to tighten everything up every 30 shots or so has gotten under my skin. I will loctite it up in the following days.

Click to expand...

No the screws on the HW98 (of any caliber) in the stocks are meant to be turned snug and then left alone. The two opposing slotted "cocking barrel in receiver" screws are HARD and do NOT back out but over time you STILL have to "snug" them as the wood in the thing adjusts to YOUR climate.

I just shot my prized and expensive D54 .20 this morning at 35 yards and we are now in 80 over degree moist weather.

I missed the steel and hit the steel and missed and kept on going to achieve "50 percent" successful reactive steel target shots.

I then took out the Theoben .25 Gas Ram from 1999 and slammed the steel 3 times at 35 yards.

I put THAT away (I guess I will call my only gas ram 'faithful always') and reached for my iron sighted .20 HW50S and achieved 50/50 again.

I put THAT rifle away and took out the .20 HW98 and never missed realizing despite the HEAT and SUNLIGHT in my eyes the HW98 .20 offhand with glass and me wearing a FORD camo cap (yes I own a Mustang made in 2020 and had one in 2014 that was a stick shift and before that the 1965 Ford Falcon!) to get rid of sunlight into my eyes.

I realized I had more work to do to make the .20 D54 shoot in heat the way it shot in cold; but not so using the HW98 .20.

Once you sight in your HW98 with scope you will never need to change the POI.

Kindly,

No such thing as a springer that will never change POI, NONE!

No such thing as a springer that will never change POI, NONE!

Click to expand...

Dang...That's like in concreate, for sure. I was looking for a HW95/97 recently and could not find any in stock. Not sure if that's the best springer, but seems popular. I am a PCP guy, but would entertain a "best" springer if there is such. What do you say...Anyone's comments are welcomed. I started with two NP2 Nitro pistons. They were junk, and is really how I got into PCPs.

No such thing as a springer that will never change POI, NONE!

Click to expand...

Dang...That's like in concreate, for sure. I was looking for a HW95/97 recently and could not find any in stock. Not sure if that's the best springer, but seems popular. I am a PCP guy, but would entertain a "best" springer if there is such. What do you say...Anyone's comments are welcomed. I started with two NP2 Nitro pistons. They were junk, and is really how I got into PCPs.

Click to expand...

But try an HW98 anyone owns near you and then decide for yourself...............

I have said many times over there is no best, only opinions. Ask virtually any question of what's best and see you'll get numerous varied responses. If there was truly one "best" there would be only one answer. A question of favorite is better IMO as it allows for opinion, having said that I offer no favorite guns as my other ones may get jealous and misbehave  

I’m not trying to start a major discussion but the thin compression tube Weihrauchs like the r9 and it’s variants are not going to be as refined in stock form as a HW97 with its factory honed sliding compression tube. Some break barrels absolutely have to be tuned. I assume the HW98 for the money is refined. The weight of the 97 is a major downside for some folks. Break barrels can be very accurate and they weigh a lot less and are easier to load. It all depends on what you want. For a field gun I would choose a break barrel even if I had to drop some additional money for a tune. For target only my choice is the HW97K. 

I have said many times over there is no best, only opinions. Ask virtually any question of what's best and see you'll get numerous varied responses. If there was truly one "best" there would be only one answer. A question of favorite is better IMO as it allows for opinion, having said that I offer no favorite guns as my other ones may get jealous and misbehave 

Click to expand...

I am not interested in arguing over systematic communication styles. I am just asking which springers are known by many as the better ones to take a look at as far as having quality overall in design and barrel accuracy. I do understand many favor what they have, but there has to be some sort of consensus as to which ones stand out amongst the heard of springers, whether owned personally or wish to own. I would be only shooting one under 30 yards at most depending on accuracy. I have PCPs that will reach on out there with precision and power. It would just be nice to have a good shooting reliable springer in .22 caliber that's not overly heavy and shoots fairly decent. I didn't know they could be tuned.

Get a Diana 34 or 48 .22 and it’s a done deal. Some Weihrauch .22s have oversized bores. 

Get a Diana 34 or 48 .22 and it’s a done deal. Some Weihrauch .22s have oversized bores.

Click to expand...

Thanks! I just read a review on this rifle and all sounded good. I do like the included sights as well. Diana RWS 34 Review - Is It Worth Your Money? | TheGunZone

I do like quite reports. I am not sure on that part still.