Pellet lube, Ballistol, mp5, CLP?

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Kry Tech is a product made by Finish Line, and it is a liquid wax. I use Kry Tech on some barrels, but on others I'll use either nothing, or Lemon Pledge. Lemon Pledge is a liquid wax as well, and when dry, is a semi soft texture to it. On my Field Target Tech Channel I describe how I apply the above lubes to pellets. Lemon Pledge is applied differently than Kry Tech. You can use regular Pledge, but in time, the smell goes away. Lemon Pledges' smell lasts longer, and it is easier to identify pellets lubed with it many months down the road.

https://youtu.be/b_9fP1z8D08

Tom Holland 
 
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+ FP-10

+Krytech

Regular silicone 10wt shock oil works nicely

I use Rooster Lube for dry lube on slugs sometimes too, for field hunting use (straight, diluted with water 2:1 or 4:1)

I will say that CLP type products and Teflon containing lubes give erratic velocities and fliers in MY guns. I think the coating is TOO slick strangely enough and the bullet starts down the barrel too easily, not developing the 'push' it needs to get consistent FPS.


 
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Coldair,

I've tried it, and in my opinion, with most lubes, there is no "immediate " in increase in accuracy. What the lubes do, is to extend barrel fouling issues longer, keeping the accuracy of the given gun longer. If you clean any fouled barrel that is shooting like crap, due to the fact its fouled, and add a lube (that the gun likes), yes, you will have an increase in accuracy. If you have a barrel that shoots 1/2" groups at 55 yards, a "magic" lube will not tighten the group. It will keep that group longer before it "goes out".



Tom Holland 
 
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Thanks for the input Tom and great instructional video BTW!

I just can't see how it can be marketed like that stating 50% increase in accuracy.

I like to use repeaters with magazines and have used FP10 and the SlickOne Lube

and noticed I have to take apart the magazines to clean them otherwise they don't 

function as well. I would like to find an alternative that won't muck up the magazines.

CA


 
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Coldair, 

Remington makes a spray lube that dries to the touch, and it is designed for metal to metal, and composite to metal . It microscopically fills in the imperfections in the rubbing materials in order to make them function smoother. This might be a good product to use on that, I would NOT recommend that it be used on barrels, pellets, or any kind of seals. Magazines, hinges on a break barrel, and some mechanical actions, like a Benjamin Marauder would be some of the items that would benefit from a dry lube, as it will not collect dirt and crud.

Tom Holland 
 
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Hi Tom I have to apologize and I think I may have not been too clear about the Marauder magazines and FP10 and Slick1 Lube, I used to lube the pellets with those products and eventually the magazines got gummed up and sometimes hang up between chambered rounds so I would have to open up the magazines to clean them from time to time due to the pellet lubes I was using. I am looking for an alternative that I can lube my pellets which will be fed in the magazines which hopefully will not build up or hinder functionality of the magazines when indexing the subsequent rounds.

When I shoot unlubed pellets through the magazines, I have no issues.

CA
 
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Coldair, 

Ah, I see......

I would think that a lube that is on the thin and runny side, would be a decent choice. Lemon Pledge, Kry Tech, and some others, all have wax in them, thus the buildup of dirt and stuff that is clogging your magazines. Maybe a thin lube, such as the Napier, would serve you better. Maybe even some of the non petroleum Crosman lubes, or Dexron lll transmission fluid. Its relatively thin compared to the other lubes, and will not detonate in a Springer or multi stroke pneumatics.

Tom Holland 
 
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Hi All,

lots of good suggestions here, on the topic of washing, I find that a two stage cleaning with a slotted plastic strainer works for me.

Stage 1 is a very light coat of ballistol, then swirl around until you can see the pellets start shining, rinse with hot and forceful (aerated water is too soft) water. Stage two is dishwashing soap in said strainer swirled around then rinsed with hot and forceful water. Depending on how dirty the pellets are you may need to repeat this process.

As for lubing, I wanted to avoid over applying and to find a way to uniformally apply between washing sessions. So I use the bowl my strainer came with and fill it with water half way.

i then squirt some ballistol into the water bath, Ballistol goes into an emulsion in water and floats to the surface, you then take your strainer full of pellets and dunk it into the bath, submerge pellets and remove once, then rinse with hot water.

i then dump the pellets onto a black towel and very gently tumble the wet pellets in the towel. This process is essential to remove any remaining lead flakes, water or excess lube.

the process is long to explain but takes about 15 minutes per 700 .25 pellets. Your pellets will shine like jewels, they will have zero skirt or head damage they will be perfectly coated with lube that will be dry to the touch and will keep in the tin for years without oxidation 
 
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Hi All,

lots of good suggestions here, on the topic of washing, I find that a two stage cleaning with a slotted plastic strainer works for me.

Stage 1 is a very light coat of ballistol, then swirl around until you can see the pellets start shining, rinse with hot and forceful (aerated water is too soft) water. Stage two is dishwashing soap in said strainer swirled around then rinsed with hot and forceful water. Depending on how dirty the pellets are you may need to repeat this process.

As for lubing, I wanted to avoid over applying and to find a way to uniformally apply between washing sessions. So I use the bowl my strainer came with and fill it with water half way.

i then squirt some ballistol into the water bath, Ballistol goes into an emulsion in water and floats to the surface, you then take your strainer full of pellets and dunk it into the bath, submerge pellets and remove once, then rinse with hot water.

i then dump the pellets onto a black towel and very gently tumble the wet pellets in the towel. This process is essential to remove any remaining lead flakes, water or excess lube.

the process is long to explain but takes about 15 minutes per 700 .25 pellets. Your pellets will shine like jewels, they will have zero skirt or head damage they will be perfectly coated with lube that will be dry to the touch and will keep in the tin for years without oxidation
Click to expand...


That is a great suggestion for your lube method. Thanks for the details.
 
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Furthering my post above, I would like to mention that I have migrated mostly to big bore .357 and .457 and lubing is almost required not just to hold back fouling but really does give better accuracy once the barrel is conditioned. I did A LOT of testing with and without to see what worked!

On recommendation, I tried 10wt synthetic shock oil where I put 3 or 4 drops in a baggie then 50 bullets and kneed them around. This leaves an almost imperceptible film on the bullets but is enough to do the job. Do try this as it is just as good as others I've tried.

I have not tried shock oil on pellets but I will sometime.
 
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I remember reading an article by mr Gaylord, and yes he encourages pellet lubing, but he also points out that velocity is affected some. Have any of you found this to be accurate? I use FP10, ten drops initially drizzled into a tin with foam above and below the pellets, and in a month if I haven’t used up the tin of pellets, re apply but only about 6 drops of FP10. Can’t say for sure if accuracy has improved, but isn’t it a wonder I’ve never had to experiment with different pellets at different weights, etc., etc., to get an accurate load? When I first bought my 25 cal Marauder, HN crow mags and HN Barracuda extreme hunters, and it shoots them both excellent. Same for the PRod, and I’ve only tried the Vortex 44.75 pellets in my 30 cal Bully, and that now is very accurate. The only pellets I have on hand, are the ones my guns shoot the best. No unused tins laying around collecting dust.

I guess I got lucky, not having gone thru all that unnecessary cost of trying to find “the right one”.
 
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