Pard 008+ Operation

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Jim81

Member
Nov 2, 2017
550
33
Wa, United States
Really like mine...so far! The size and WEIGHT are stellar. My X-sight is in the classifieds soley because of the weight. However, I think the function buttons don't do what the manual says they do. For example...the OK (return Enter) doesn't always act in that way. In the zero reticle it does save the setting for that particular Part of the setting that the blue highlited shade at the bottom is on when you push OK. Found out by trial and error the reticle will only move on the axis highlited. If you have it set on the "X" axis only that axis will move. If you need to move the "Y" axis to zero, you must move the blue highlited cursor to the "Y" in order to move/adjust.

I didn' get the laser range finder model because it was more weight and was something that you had to forget or ignore on every shot. It also is an energy/battery consumer. If I am going to have to be that critical on range, I don't do slugs etc.,I have the Vortex range finder strung around my neck.

I have downloaded all the Pard 008 manuals I can find and none describe the action of the 4 function buttons accurately. Therefore one is left to trial and error. I am wondering are others experiencing the same confusion or am I just dense?

If anyone else has this figured out or have found a good reference please share it with me. The next step is to take the scope off the rifle and mount it on a photo tripod and start playing and writing down what I am experiecing. I would like to share that with the Pard community if I can clearly explain what is going on with the function buttons. I just hopr their actions are consistent. For example the left and right arrow buttons do not move the cursor whan trying to select a different adjustment in the options when zeroing the reticle. Other times is does move things in the direction it says they are supposed to.

Maybe but I don't think the rangefinder model operates identical to the non-rangefinder when operating the function buttons. Assistance please!
 
It does operate according to what the manual says. Context is everything. The choice was between making a smaller, possibly lighter unit with bigger buttons that were not dedicated to a single function -- and therefore less confusing -- or making the same sized unit with much smaller and harder to use but dedicated buttons or alternatively a unit that was big (and heavy) enough to hold a big rack of dedicated buttons.

PARD chose the latter. EDIT: LOL OMG the former. smh Sorry, too much crazy stress lately making me crazy boi. :( Just killed my dog and lost my job, am not very focused right now. I will try to do better.

There are compromises with that choice, but I believe it kept the buttons a more usable size and probably kept the overall unit smaller and lighter, so I'm cool with that. It doesn't make things easy or instinctive right away, though.

I've had to re-read the manual on my NV008lrf a number of times when first playing with it, and when I've changed the scope to another gun, decided to reset my zero range, etc. I wouldn't be surprised if I wind up re-reading it several times again. I feel your pain.

As far as the lrf light, you don't have to have it on, so it is only a battery drainer if you want it to be. Besides, it's just an 18650 battery. Super easy to carry and the expense is pretty moderate for a four-pack and a charger. It's hard for me to picture needing to go through too many too fast.

What the manual is, is incomplete and terse.

I found this video to be very helpful on initial set-up:





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOGFatkdP1s





And this one invaluable for setting up the lrf:





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeIuHt3UrMY





One very confusing thing for me - and a relief - was that you don't have to be steady when adjusting your zero. Once you get into zeroing mode, you are adjusting the crosshairs to a still picture of your last shot and setting, not to the actively wiggling rifle you've got it on.

As to playing with the PARD on a tripod for a while, I highly recommend that or something like it. I first put mine on my rifle, decided it was a clumsy, heavy way to learn, and then took it off and just messed with the controls in my hand for a while. Like I would with any camera.

Maybe you are a little dense, but if so, so am I. (Actually I know I'm a little dense sometimes with this kind of thing.) Keep at it for a while and I think you'll see that the manual is steering you in the right direction. You just can't treat this system as one in which the buttons will always behave the same way in every context.

If you're like me, the greatest difficulty will be in getting the scope, with its weird mount, correctly on some of your guns. Works fine on my Cricket but I'm having to jump through hoops to get it properly on my Avenger, which has a split top rail that interferes with securely fastening the PARD's mount. I got a ZB LITE mount from ebay to help, and also a cheapy riser mount from Amazon to try an alternative. Depending on the gun, you may have to do a similar level of fooling around and spending more.
 
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I don't have the 4K pro. Mine is just one of the first ones and is a "HD" model.All my rifles are bullpups or carbine size and with that scope on the rifles its akin to strapping a bowling ball to the mount. It' worse when you attach the torch to the left picatinny on the scope. Always a big left cant without some kind of rest. It's certainly not an off hand shot for me.

I think the Pard has better picture resolution although I am not comparing it to the Pro as I have the HD. I the buttons on the Pro/HD are more consistent and logical in apllication but...they don't have a solid feel and it's hard to know if you pushed the button accurately. The buttons are recessed on the top of the scope and I often thought I was pushing the middle button but my finger was on the most forward button. Or I wasn't centered on the button and it didn't make solid electrical contact.

I have hunted the HD but not confident I could hunt with the Pard unless I set it before I got to the permission and didn't have to change it. Mine is on a Pulsar and it mounted fine on that. I have ordered the heliboard from EU and I know I'll be able to reduce the FPE to the point it will not go through the farmers. tin barns. I also put a TOL Donny moderator on it and after I put that on I wasn't sure it was actually firing. I thought something internally went gunny sack. I had to put my hand near the end of the moderator where the tiny holes are drilled to proove to myself air was traveling down the barrel. That's a luckily discovered advantage when pesting. The sound difference is amazing. It's not just noticeably more quiet it makes a major difference. Will probably allow a second shot at the same pest some of the time.

Thanks all for your information. I had already watched and rewatched both videos referenced. I don't remeber on the zeroing video that ot was explained you have to select the axis by moving the choice options on the bottom of the screen. I have discoverd the freeze frame picture that allows one to finely adjust the axis's and not worrying about moving the rifle while adjusting. On the Pard you are adjusting the X/Y to a picture you just took. You can take the rifle in another room and still adjust the zero. Long huh? I'll quit. Thanks everyone.
 
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Had to come back and thank Dingfelder. I went back a re-read the manual I downloaded. After playing and fussing with the Pard the manual makes much better sense. I am now learning what I was grumbling about. I couldn't have gone through the manual and 'learned' what they were trying to explain without playiing with the thing for quite awhile. I might offer that as a susggestion for new Pard people. At least that is what helped me with my particular learning style. Here's the URL to download the manual. I'd advise to use a few sheets of paper and make a hard copy.



https://tinyurl.com/PARD-NV008-LRF-manual-R1-BCMP


 
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