I have used this when setting up my scopes...pretty informative.



https://www.bcsportsmen.org/ft/A_Team_Parallax_adjustment_procedure.pdf




That article describes exactly what I've been trying to say. I had to do that procedure several times, after getting my scope optically centered. 

Great find josh3rd. Thanks.......

I had to give you a 1+ accuracy for that one. 


http://www.wilhelm.co.nz/focusriflescope2.

https://gundigest.com/more/how-to/improve-accuracy-minor-scope-adjustments

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmqWiyAENsE
 
Bigragu.... you might try checking the torque on your scope mount screws. One of our shooters bought a Sightron and had a LOT of hysteresis... the amount of play when you turn one way, then the other. When he torqued to proper specs, it went away. Must have been crushing the scope tube a little but it's difficult for me to see how that would do it. Anyway , worked for him. Btw, I don't remember the actual spec, but it was LIGHT. Just a few inch pounds. I tighten holding the small side of an Allen wrench now, myself.

Bob
 
Bigragu.... you might try checking the torque on your scope mount screws. One of our shooters bought a Sightron and had a LOT of hysteresis... the amount of play when you turn one way, then the other. When he torqued to proper specs, it went away. Must have been crushing the scope tube a little but it's difficult for me to see how that would do it. Anyway , worked for him. Btw, I don't remember the actual spec, but it was LIGHT. Just a few inch pounds. I tighten holding the small side of an Allen wrench now, myself.

Bob

Interesting. I have torque drivers but often do just as you mentioned-tighten only to the pressure I can comfortably apply with the short end of an Allen wrench. A little off topic but possible issues such as this are also why I have never used shims on my scopes. They may work fine as many seem to like them but it seems they could easily cause increased stress on a scope tube.
 
This Athlon scope is on my Wildcat, and for this set up I bought the FX no limit rings. I always use my wheeler torque screwdriver and 18 inch lbs is usually where I set the ring screws to do most scopes. 



The gun gun itself will be down as I’ll be taking it apart to address a couple of things. I’ll look more into this parallax wheel play then, when I reassemble everything.
 
Hijacking a thread here....



I shoot with a few diamondbacks and a Leopold. None have parallax adjustment. My Diamondbacks are set at 50 yards. 98 percent of the time i am very happy with my groups, and I usually shoot between 25 and 35 yards.

Question is, not being a raised as a scope guy, would I benefit with parallax adjustability. I purchased most of my scopes before I even knew about that option. I haven't noticed a specific issue, so should I bother "upgrading "? I have always "felt " like I put my eye in the exact same location behind the scope, so I dont think I'm affected too much by parallax. 



What say you?
 
I believe you would benefit. Seems a scope can only be parallax free at a single given distance (how wide is that distance?) if not adjustable. Can an individual have enough feel to get their eye in exactly the same position behind the scope every time? Possible, I guess. But probably unlikely. The entire concept of "cheek weld" is something I've never put much stock in. Should you try to be consistent in placement? Surely. Is it possible to get it exactly in the same place each time with no slight tilt or shift of the head or slight additional pressure just from cheek contact area feel? Maybe not, and possibly probably not. Skin sensitivity could change with many factors. The parallax adjustment allows such slight changes to be "corrected for" at a given yardage. Certainly JMO.
 
I believe you would benefit. Seems a scope can only be parallax free at a single given distance (how wide is that distance?) if not adjustable. Can an individual have enough feel to get their eye in exactly the same position behind the scope every time? Possible, I guess. But probably unlikely. The entire concept of "cheek weld" is something I've never put much stock in. Should you try to be consistent in placement? Surely. Is it possible to get it exactly in the same place each time with no slight tilt or shift of the head or slight additional pressure just from cheek contact area feel? Maybe not, and possibly probably not. Skin sensitivity could change with many factors. The parallax adjustment allows such slight changes to be "corrected for" at a given yardage. Certainly JMO.

I appreciate the response to a hijacked thread! 



Guess I'm stuck between the idea on spending more on scopes when I have ones that are very good. And my thought is, if I REALLY need the parallax adjustment, then I'll need to replace ALL my scopes.

I'm a "converted" firearm man. Now I shoot my airguns FAR more than firearms. I really was never a scope guy until my airguns. Are most air gunners using scopes with parallax adjustment?
 
I'd say yes we are.

Parallax error can be somewhat mitigated by perfectly centering your eye in the middle of the eyebox of the scope.

If you are hunting small game at normal airgun distances having a little parallax error won't be a hindrance.

It's when you are shooting at tiny targets that parallax error becomes a problem. 

There's too much information I'd have to go into so I won't but if you were to go over to Snipers Hide optics forums and read the sticky's at the top, those resources will explain a lot.

I prefer adjustable cheek rests, scopes with side focus parallax knobs that focus close, euro style diopters, and decent quality scopes. With a little fiddling around going back and forth with "the diopter = which is basically the reticle focus for your eye", and the parallax knob, you can get the image focus, and the reticle cleanly focused, both balanced together, so the parallax error is dialed out. Easier said than done but that's the goal. 
 
I'd say yes we are.

Parallax error can be somewhat mitigated by perfectly centering your eye in the middle of the eyebox of the scope.

If you are hunting small game at normal airgun distances having a little parallax error won't be a hindrance.

It's when you are shooting at tiny targets that parallax error becomes a problem. 

There's too much information I'd have to go into so I won't but if you were to go over to Snipers Hide optics forums and read the sticky's at the top, those resources will explain a lot.

I prefer adjustable cheek rests, scopes with side focus parallax knobs that focus close, euro style diopters, and decent quality scopes. With a little fiddling around going back and forth with "the diopter = which is basically the reticle focus for your eye", and the parallax knob, you can get the image focus, and the reticle cleanly focused, both balanced together, so the parallax error is dialed out. Easier said than done but that's the goal.

Thank you for the answer, advice, and suggestion on subforum. I'd love to hear more, but given how well I am shooting, I probably will not upgrade. Its not a financial thing, I get attached to my things. Guess when I get a mew gun, I'll get one with parallax adjustment.